My Current QT Process

Hallowhead

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All fish look good today. The wrasse and the dottyback have eaten non medicated mysis. The lawn mower blenny didn't seem to go after any mysis. Any thoughts on how to feed him? Maybe put nori in?

All parameters are stable:
Ammonia >.25ppm
Nitrate ~ 2.0ppm
Nitrite 0 ppm
ph 8.0
salinity 1.019 - I will begin slowly raising to DT salinity soon.
Copper 1.0ppm

I am going to dose my first bit of copper today to begin increasing to 2.0 ppm.

I noticed that the fish go crazy for unmedicated mysis.... but not the medicated. Does the garlic guard really help?

The only thing I've noticed is the wrasse being afraid of it's reflection and swims up and down the side of the tank looking at himself.
 

JCTReefer

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All fish look good today. The wrasse and the dottyback have eaten non medicated mysis. The lawn mower blenny didn't seem to go after any mysis. Any thoughts on how to feed him? Maybe put nori in?

All parameters are stable:
Ammonia >.25ppm
Nitrate ~ 2.0ppm
Nitrite 0 ppm
ph 8.0
salinity 1.019 - I will begin slowly raising to DT salinity soon.
Copper 1.0ppm

I am going to dose my first bit of copper today to begin increasing to 2.0 ppm.

I noticed that the fish go crazy for unmedicated mysis.... but not the medicated. Does the garlic guard really help?

The only thing I've noticed is the wrasse being afraid of it's reflection and swims up and down the side of the tank looking at himself.
If you're still reading ammonia on the badge, don't be afraid to add more Bio Spira. I used a whole 8oz bottle to seed the filter sponges on my 20 gallon. I was able to process 2ppm ammonia within 24 hours. Of course, I seeded the sponges 3 days in advance of adding copper to give the bacteria a better chance. It's still not going to hurt if you add some more.
 

Hallowhead

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If you're still reading ammonia on the badge, don't be afraid to add more Bio Spira. I used a whole 8oz bottle to seed the filter sponges on my 20 gallon. I was able to process 2ppm ammonia within 24 hours. Of course, I seeded the sponges 3 days in advance of adding copper to give the bacteria a better chance. It's still not going to hurt if you add some more.
I was reading nitrite & nitrate today. I dosed more bio spira to ensure that my fish are okay. Day 1 of copper increase complete. The API kit doesn't really help much, but I am sticking to my calculated amounts.

I am nervous that my lawnmower blenny doesn't eat... or at least not when I am watching. The other two are beginning to learn that mysis are the goat!
 

JCTReefer

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I was reading nitrite & nitrate today. I dosed more bio spira to ensure that my fish are okay. Day 1 of copper increase complete. The API kit doesn't really help much, but I am sticking to my calculated amounts.

I am nervous that my lawnmower blenny doesn't eat... or at least not when I am watching. The other two are beginning to learn that mysis are the goat!
Nitrite is of no concern in marine Aquaria. So if those readings are high, don’t worry about it. If you bought a Hanna Hr checker “HI702” that would put your mind at ease on the copper dosage. They’re super easy to use, and very accurate. They’re roughly 50$ @ BRS and reagent packs are about 10$ for 20 test if I remember correctly.
 

Kasey Grohowski

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Nitrite is of no concern in marine Aquaria. So if those readings are high, don’t worry about it. If you bought a Hanna Hr checker “HI702” that would put your mind at ease on the copper dosage. They’re super easy to use, and very accurate. They’re roughly 50$ @ BRS and reagent packs are about 10$ for 20 test if I remember correctly.
Nitrate*
 

JCTReefer

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Nitrite? I'm not sure about that, it's not as toxic as ammonia, but still toxic.
I’ve done plenty of reading on the subject of nitrite in marine systems. Randy Homes Farley’s stuff and tons of post by Brandon429. Have a read on it. It’s a different story in fresh water though. I always thought nitrite was harmful also. And of course in a cycled tank it should always read 0ppm. Ammonia is the number one concern for sure. I’m certainly not trying to argue. I’m just basing my statement on the research I’ve done. If there were readings of nitrite anything more than 0ppm in my fully cycled DT I would think something was off. I’ve never tested anything but zero nitrite on a fully cycled tank. It should be quickly converted to nitrate with an established population of bacteria. I’m by no means an expert on the subject. Far from it.
I just freaked out one time when I tested for nitrites in my Qt and readings were high. That stemmed me to spend a good part of the day reading about it. After a water change that is. And after all the reading, I probably didn’t need to do one.:)This is a good article on the subject.
 
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@HotRocks what do you think about captive-bred fish and not QT'ing them?
Well, its a double edged sword. Depending on where you get them from. If you get them from the breeder direct it would be the safest. If you order from a wholesaler/retailer that keeps them in a system with wild caught fish its no safer. It is not a risk I would take by any means. I still QT them the same as any other fish I bring in.
 

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I think some captive breeding facilities use natural sea water, I read an article on reefuilders once that mentioned Bali Aquarich losing some angelfish to ich. So yeah best to qt
 
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JCTReefer

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Has anyone ever experienced leaching of copper back out of mixing containers after they’re used? After they’ve been predosed with copper to match quarantine before doing a water change. I guess you could always fill the container with water and let it set a day. Then test it. I’m debating on tossing the bucket. They’re cheap. And power heads also? I would think the absorption would me minimal for short durations. Or would bleaching and wiping down with vinegar remove any residual copper?
@HotRocks do you have any opinions on this?
I’m just curious. If it’s a bad idea to reuse the bucket after sterilizing, I’ll just throw it away. Or just keep it as the copper mixing bucket.
 
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HotRocks

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There should not be any issues reusing a bucket once sterilized and dried out completely.
 

Hallowhead

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Day 6 my wrasse seems to be struggling.

He's very lazy all of a sudden staying in the bottom of the tank corner. He kind of let's the flow take him and slides him around

Yesterday he was all over the place. No visual signs of any disease no bad poops or anything.

My blenny and Dottyback look great.

Water:
Ammonia: 0
Nitrite: between .75&1ppm
Nitrate: 2.0ppm
Ph: 8.0

Should I do a water change ???
 

Pbh-reef

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Did you medicate the tank at all? If so with what and if with copper at what level?

How much surface agitation is in the tank?

Can you post a pic or better yet a video of the fish?

Any signs of disease?

Water changes with clean water at matching salinity and temp can’t hurt but doesn’t seem likely to solve the issue. But no reason not to try
 

Hallowhead

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Did you medicate the tank at all? If so with what and if with copper at what level?

How much surface agitation is in the tank?

Can you post a pic or better yet a video of the fish?

Any signs of disease?

Water changes with clean water at matching salinity and temp can’t hurt but doesn’t seem likely to solve the issue. But no reason not to try

Here is the tank

Hob filter
We are at 3.6ml dosed with only 3 doses left of .4ml so ~ 1.75-1.8 probably ? Should I stop ahead of 2.0?

I'm feeding mysis soaked in general cure and focus and some garlic

15668646355581980878839425037735.jpg
 

Pbh-reef

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Two things I notice - I think your heater needs to be much more submerged than it is (maybe it’s the angle of the photo) but that looks like a fire hazard to me

Two - not tons of surface agitation, maybe with increasing copper you need to add a powerheard pointing to the surface or an airstone connected to an aurpump

I’d test to see what your copper level is to make sure you didn’t overdose by accident

Adding more water or a water change to decrease the copper level may help the wrasse, which looks sort of weak in a way that may indicate a bad reaction to the copper or not enough dissolved oxygen
 

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