NITRATES!

[Bucs20fan]

If the fish arent swimming and its because of ich, you are borderline too late. Thats the last step before Ich kills a fish. If they are not infested with ich and are not swimming this is most likely flukes as they attack the gills and or eyes or body depending on the species of fluke.

 

[GARRIGA]

I've used NoPox to bring nitrates from 160 plus to zero. I dose 4 ml daily to 16 gallons for reference. Since your nitrites are zero they aren't exaggerating your nitrate reading. Key with using API nitrate test kit is properly shaking that second regent. It's not precise but accurate enough. Easy enough to determine when it's below 25 ppm. WWC runs their systems at that level. Panic would be the last thing I'd do. Plus high nitrates shouldn't be the cause of fish deaths. At least not from a sudden rise but more likely from prolong exposure. ICP might be the only route to exclude anything else causing issues.

BTW, since the test only goes to 160 ppm then there's no indication of exactly how high is high. Couple of 25% WC would help although I try carbon dosing first. Vodka more concentrated than vinegar but those two are an option to NoPox and readily available. Often found in most homes. Just wouldn't use the expensive vodka. Perhaps what is given to guests

 

[Gtinnel]

That's really low on Salinity. Almost brackish at that point I'd think. I would definitely get that up. It may even mess with the beneficial bacteria you're needing. I think 1.010 is around 25/26ppt? 25ppt is considered brackish, and say if you have a clownfish, they can't live in brackish water.

I'm new to the hobby and just trying to help also lol

The lower salinity is not deadly to the fish. One way to treat parasites is by keeping them in hyposalinity at 1.009sg. I don’t know about the salinity effecting bacteria but clearly it hasn’t effected all bacteria since the tank is processing ammonia into nitrate.

However for the OP since you are running hyposalinity are you sure your salinity measuring device is properly calibrated. Your salinity could be lower than you think. I agree that although your nitrates are a problem they’re not the issue with your fish.

 

[Bucs20fan]

Im going to pin point that your issue is a multitude or tornado of issues all at once:
Low salinity, like really low
Combo of diseases, most likely ich/velvet and a secondary fluke infection
High nitrates dont make disease cure any easier, cleaner water is better.

 

[BetterJake]

Guys, I have been trying to lower my nitrates for weeks now! Every few days or once a week I lose a fish. Other fish in the tank barely swim, I thought maybe they’re just lazy. I have zero ammonia, nitrites, my ph was low but got a reef buffer and that increased my ph. I am running hyposalinty because my DT has Ich but screw it I purchases copper power and will be dosing my tank once my salinity is up, it’s currently 1.010, I’ll be slowly increasing it. Im pulling my hair because my nitrates will not go down. I replaced my purigen, carbon, was still high. I purchased filters and replaced them and did a 50 gallon water change, total system is 200 gallon and the nitrates still look the same! What in the world is going on?!!!?? This is tick*ng me off! I’ve done multiple water changes with the old filters and now even with the new it’s the same. I use purigen, carbon and these rinseable then eventually replaceable green filter balls from pet o. I see seachem has a de nitrate which looks like some sort of bio pellets. Can someone please suggest how to lower nitrates! Or what to use in my filter canisters?! Please, I’m about to throw my 200 gallon system out, what am I not getting.

I would try another kit, API is notoriously unreliable. I really like the RedSea or Hanna Nitrate HR tester.

50 gallons WC out of 200 total. So a 25% water change. If you had nitrates at 50 that would only bring the nitrates down to about 37.5, assuming the kit for testing is accurate.

 

[EeyoreIsMySpiritAnimal]

I would try another kit, API is notoriously unreliable. I really like the RedSea or Hanna Nitrate HR tester.

50 gallons WC out of 200 total. So a 25% water change. If you had nitrates at 50 that would only bring the nitrates down to about 37.5, assuming the kit for testing is accurate.

And assuming they use RODI and not tap water...

 

[Bucs20fan]

I would try another kit, API is notoriously unreliable. I really like the RedSea or Hanna Nitrate HR tester.

50 gallons WC out of 200 total. So a 25% water change. If you had nitrates at 50 that would only bring the nitrates down to about 37.5, assuming the kit for testing is accurate.

While I appreciate the use of hannah or salifert tests, API nitrate test is reliable especially at higher ranges and is more than suitable for this case provided the instructions are followed. At that level red, even a hanna checker would show 160 plus.

 

[GARRIGA]

While I appreciate the use of hannah or salifert tests, API nitrate test is reliable especially at higher ranges and is more than suitable for this case provided the instructions are followed. At that level red, even a hanna checker would show 160 plus.

Bet most saying API not accurate never used API. The better explanation being that it's is not as precise as perhaps a digital reader which might be off because it needs calibration. Why I just look for general numbers and not worried about precision.

 

[Bucs20fan]

Bet most saying API not accurate never used API. The better explanation being that it's is not as precise as perhaps a digital reader which might be off because it needs calibration. Why I just look for general numbers and not worried about precision.

I agree, API has its shortfalls, but even its tests have sustained countless SPS systems. Its not the number one widely sold test kit and the highest grossing test kits for no reason. Id rather have api tests than nothing thats for darn sure.

 

[Bucs20fan]

Bet most saying API not accurate never used API. The better explanation being that it's is not as precise as perhaps a digital reader which might be off because it needs calibration. Why I just look for general numbers and not worried about precision.

This sound bad but shoot I beat dinos twice using API kits for what thats worth ROFL.

 

[14 foot reef]

Guys, I have been trying to lower my nitrates for weeks now! Every few days or once a week I lose a fish. Other fish in the tank barely swim, I thought maybe they’re just lazy. I have zero ammonia, nitrites, my ph was low but got a reef buffer and that increased my ph. I am running hyposalinty because my DT has Ich but screw it I purchases copper power and will be dosing my tank once my salinity is up, it’s currently 1.010, I’ll be slowly increasing it. Im pulling my hair because my nitrates will not go down. I replaced my purigen, carbon, was still high. I purchased filters and replaced them and did a 50 gallon water change, total system is 200 gallon and the nitrates still look the same! What in the world is going on?!!!?? This is tick*ng me off! I’ve done multiple water changes with the old filters and now even with the new it’s the same. I use purigen, carbon and these rinseable then eventually replaceable green filter balls from pet o. I see seachem has a de nitrate which looks like some sort of bio pellets. Can someone please suggest how to lower nitrates! Or what to use in my filter canisters?! Please, I’m about to throw my 200 gallon system out, what am I not getting.

Please don't take this wrong, but there are so many fundamentally simple things wrong here. Please take a breath and we need to do a hard reset here. Before we do we have to get you up to basic knowledge on a marine saltwater tank.
Again please don't take this wrong. multiple questions please answer .......
1) how many fish left in tank
2) list the fish still remaining
3) where are you getting your guidance and knowledge from LFS, online, friend ?
4) How long has tank been set up
5) Are you willing to read reputable books or watch instructional videos from a reefing mentor ?
6) How long have you been keeping either fresh water or saltwater fish.

Let's start with the above few questions, I will personally take on helping you if you are willing to learn, make tough immediate choices, and understand complete change is most likely needed.

 

[GARRIGA]

This sound bad but shoot I beat dinos twice using API kits for what thats worth ROFL.

I think my success with dinos is I overfeed. Although I’m told I shouldn’t do that either

 

[Dburr1014]

Lots of responses and the OP is MIA.

 

[EeyoreIsMySpiritAnimal]

Lots of responses and the OP is MIA.

To be fair, he only started the thread a few hours ago... Probably at work now.

 

[BetterJake]

I think my success with dinos is I overfeed. Although I’m told I shouldn’t do that either

I wish it was that easy for me. Still dealing with some bad Prorocentrum dinos. N/P dosing, MB7, Phyto, Siphoning, Blackouts.. Still battling

 

[Thomas Jedlicka]

Guys, I have been trying to lower my nitrates for weeks now! Every few days or once a week I lose a fish. Other fish in the tank barely swim, I thought maybe they’re just lazy. I have zero ammonia, nitrites, my ph was low but got a reef buffer and that increased my ph. I am running hyposalinty because my DT has Ich but screw it I purchases copper power and will be dosing my tank once my salinity is up, it’s currently 1.010, I’ll be slowly increasing it. Im pulling my hair because my nitrates will not go down. I replaced my purigen, carbon, was still high. I purchased filters and replaced them and did a 50 gallon water change, total system is 200 gallon and the nitrates still look the same! What in the world is going on?!!!?? This is tick*ng me off! I’ve done multiple water changes with the old filters and now even with the new it’s the same. I use purigen, carbon and these rinseable then eventually replaceable green filter balls from pet o. I see seachem has a de nitrate which looks like some sort of bio pellets. Can someone please suggest how to lower nitrates! Or what to use in my filter canisters?! Please, I’m about to throw my 200 gallon system out, what am I not getting.

I suspect that nitrates are not the issue. I had a spell in my predatory FOWLR tank a couple years back where my skimmer bust and it took me a couple months to replace. That was a 300 gallon tank with large predatory fish and my nitrates climbed to over 200 ppm. I didn't lose any fish and it didn't affect their demeanors or appetites. I would check for potential toxins in the tank. I have not found nitrate to be a big killer of fish, even if the fish are smaller.

 

[GARRIGA]

I wish it was that easy for me. Still dealing with some bad Prorocentrum dinos. N/P dosing, MB7, Phyto, Siphoning, Blackouts.. Still battling

Did a 30 plus day black out to get rid of GHA and turf algae because I ran out of NoPox and wanted to test this again. Had worked previously to some extent.

Didn’t do much but ended up having this white algae the kind you find in HVAC systems. Now it’s growing inside my HOB which serves no purpose other than pulling water through my custom bottom plate. No clue what it is and have never seen it before other than in my HVAC.

Not saying it was caused by the black out but came afterwards or at a minimum when I first noticed it.

Overdosing carbon has been my solution. GHA is gone along with cyano that showed up for a while and now my turf algae is almost gone as well although I see newly added astrea seems to be eating it. Margarita never touched it.

Have never had dinos. Knock on marine wood. Fingers crossed I don’t get it now.

 

[Hot2na]

Ditch the replaceable green filter balls...and add an appropriate size algae scrubber ...say NO to chemical solutions.

 

[newreef1]

What do you have for gas exchange?
Are you using RODI water for your water changes? If not, what is the nitrate level in the source water?

I am using this RODI, I have 2 Reef Wave Makers and 2 MPs. I checked the nitrate level in my tank earlier but not after the filter change. I will check and let you know.

 

[newreef1]

Just FYI you are using the most unreliable test kit available for salt water. Get a red sea or salfert test kit and make sure your readings are correct.

Thanks for the recommendation, I’ll look into the two brands and purchase another test kit, I was told the API was a good one so I got those.