ORP - does low value matter

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I've read alot about ORP values some time ago, and generally it seems the value isn't something you should pay much attention to, unless you use ozon.

I'm currently running sub 50, and have for months which, as far as I can tell, very low readings.

Should I investigate the reason or just accept it?
 
I don’t think below 50 mV is likely to be accurate, but in general there’s no particular ORP range that is good vs bad, IMO.
 
I don’t think below 50 mV is likely to be accurate, but in general there’s no particular ORP range that is good vs bad, IMO.
Thanks for the reply.
I cleaned the probe and tested it against the calibration fluid, and it wasn't far of.
After calibration I have a reading of 74.
Still seems very low though
 
That seems very low... mine averages about 300 but it dips when I add ChaetoGro Refugium Fertilizer during a feed cycle.

(the "sump" level spikes are when I stop pumps and feed.. you'll see the drops in ORP corresponding)

1742840696237.png
 
I still doubt it is accurate, but some additives lower ORP a lot. But regardless, there’s nothing to be done except ordinary good husbandry practices. :)
 
I still doubt it is accurate, but some additives lower ORP a lot. But regardless, there’s nothing to be done except ordinary good husbandry practices. :)
If the calibration fluid is spot on, why would it be inaccurate?
I measured tank water outside the tank without any difference (had a UV some time ago that interfered with readings).

I used to have around 200 ish, but that was a while ago. Biggest difference is I now dose All for reef instead of 3 part.
 
If the calibration fluid is spot on, why would it be inaccurate?
I measured tank water outside the tank without any difference (had a UV some time ago that interfered with readings).

I used to have around 200 ish, but that was a while ago. Biggest difference is I now dose All for reef instead of 3 part.

I cannot say why it is inaccurate (could be lots of reasons), nor can I say if your calibration fluid is accurate or even suitable for this purpose. What fluid?

The reason I said it is likely inaccurate is that I do not think it is normal for a reef tank to be that low.
 
I cannot say why it is inaccurate (could be lots of reasons), nor can I say if your calibration fluid is accurate or even suitable for this purpose. What fluid?

The reason I said it is likely inaccurate is that I do not think it is normal for a reef tank to be that low.
I appreciate the input.
I use a GHL computer, GHL redox probe and the GHL calibration fluid (220mV).
When putting the probe in the calibration fluid it reads close to the 220 mV, so I can only assume the probe is working properly (it was close to the 220mV before calibration using this fluid).
Readings are now down to 55mV after some time back in the tank.

Is there any household items that can be used just to get an estimate if the readings are accurate? If I can't trust a correct reading with calibration fluid, than what can I trust?
 
I appreciate the input.
I use a GHL computer, GHL redox probe and the GHL calibration fluid (220mV).
When putting the probe in the calibration fluid it reads close to the 220 mV, so I can only assume the probe is working properly (it was close to the 220mV before calibration using this fluid).
Readings are now down to 55mV after some time back in the tank.

Is there any household items that can be used just to get an estimate if the readings are accurate? If I can't trust a correct reading with calibration fluid, than what can I trust?

There are not any household product ORP standards that I'm aware of.

Can you describe the tank and what you dose to it?
 
20250122_210404.jpg

A picture is easier, than describing it :)

Total water volume is around 400L
For the last year or so, I've been dosing All for reef at 12 x 8mL a day ( every other hpur), with a few adjustments depending on season.
Been dosing KNO3 at roughly 1ppm a day( every morning at 9.00)
I run some GFO from time to time, and GAF (not changing this as often as I should, so most likely not doing much half of the time). Both reactors are down stream in the sump, after probes. UV installed a few months ago, but hasn't effected the ORP reading.
 
Tank looks very nice. None of those additives should drop ORP the way some things do (such as vitamin C). I'm not sure why you are seeing what you are seeing.

I would not expect GHL to be using a different standard, but there are two ways to refer to ORP. One is vs the standard hydrogen electrode (not usually used by reefers), and one is vs the silver/silver chloride electrode. I could not find GHL stating what they use.

I discuss that issue below:
ORP and the Reef Aquarium - Reefkeeping.com

ORP Electrodes

Since ORP is a measure of the electron "pulling and pushing" from the solution, it makes sense that ORP would be measured as an electrical signal. In other words, the chemicals themselves pull and push the electrons to and from a suitable probe, and the resulting voltage is a direct measure of the redox properties of the solution. ORP can be measured in other ways, such as with redox sensitive dyes, but that is rarely done by aquarists.

The electrode that actually does the ORP sensing is usually an "inert" metal, such as platinum or gold. However, one cannot simply put a single electrode into a solution and expect to get anything useful because the voltage needs to be compared to something else. That is, voltage is always the electrical potential difference between two different points, not an absolute measure at a single point. So one needs a reference electrode that provides a constant "ground" with which to compare the electrical potential in solution.

One such reference electrode can be provided by the standard hydrogen electrode. The standard hydrogen electrode involves the following reaction:

2H+ + 2e- <--> H2

The standard hydrogen electrode is a probe immersed into a solution with a fixed concentration (activity) of H+ and H2. This reference electrode is arbitrarily defined as having a zero voltage. To make a measurement with a platinum redox electrode, one then measures the voltage difference between the platinum redox electrode put into your solution of choice, and this reference electrode put into its reference solution (plus an electrical connection between the two, usually provided by a salt bridge). The value measured in this fashion is often called EH.

Unfortunately, the standard hydrogen electrode is cumbersome to use, and only specialized labs typically use them. Luckily, much simpler reference electrodes have been developed that are very easy to use. The one that is typically used for measuring ORP is the silver/silver chloride (Ag/AgCl) electrode. These electrodes are typically included in ORP electrodes, even if the manufacturer does not specifically say so. Consequently, all ORP readings taken by aquarists (and all values quoted in this article unless otherwise stated) are using this reference electrode.

The Ag/AgCl electrode works as follows. Inside of such an electrode is a silver wire coated with silver chloride and surrounded by a solution saturated with potassium chloride. The reaction setting the potential for this reference electrode is:

AgCl(s) + e- <--> Ag(s) + Cl-

The potential for this reaction only depends on the concentration of chloride in the internal filling solution. Using a saturated potassium chloride (KCl) solution keeps the chloride concentration steady (at a given temperature), making this a good choice as a reference electrode. One then only needs a tiny electrical connection to the solution being measured to complete the circuit, and allow measurement of ORP using a platinum electrode.

One difference between the Ag/AgCl electrode and the standard hydrogen electrode is that they do not have the same potential voltage. If they did, and the potential difference between them was measured, there would be no voltage difference. However, it turns out that there is a voltage difference of about 199 mv at 25°C. Consequently, if one wants to interpret ORP in terms of the EH, one has to add 199 mv to the ORP reading to get EH.
 
Tank looks very nice. None of those additives should drop ORP the way some things do (such as vitamin C). I'm not sure why you are seeing what you are seeing.

I would not expect GHL to be using a different standard, but there are two ways to refer to ORP. One is vs the standard hydrogen electrode (not usually used by reefers), and one is vs the silver/silver chloride electrode. I could not find GHL stating what they use.

I discuss that issue below:
ORP and the Reef Aquarium - Reefkeeping.com

ORP Electrodes

Since ORP is a measure of the electron "pulling and pushing" from the solution, it makes sense that ORP would be measured as an electrical signal. In other words, the chemicals themselves pull and push the electrons to and from a suitable probe, and the resulting voltage is a direct measure of the redox properties of the solution. ORP can be measured in other ways, such as with redox sensitive dyes, but that is rarely done by aquarists.

The electrode that actually does the ORP sensing is usually an "inert" metal, such as platinum or gold. However, one cannot simply put a single electrode into a solution and expect to get anything useful because the voltage needs to be compared to something else. That is, voltage is always the electrical potential difference between two different points, not an absolute measure at a single point. So one needs a reference electrode that provides a constant "ground" with which to compare the electrical potential in solution.

One such reference electrode can be provided by the standard hydrogen electrode. The standard hydrogen electrode involves the following reaction:

2H+ + 2e- <--> H2

The standard hydrogen electrode is a probe immersed into a solution with a fixed concentration (activity) of H+ and H2. This reference electrode is arbitrarily defined as having a zero voltage. To make a measurement with a platinum redox electrode, one then measures the voltage difference between the platinum redox electrode put into your solution of choice, and this reference electrode put into its reference solution (plus an electrical connection between the two, usually provided by a salt bridge). The value measured in this fashion is often called EH.

Unfortunately, the standard hydrogen electrode is cumbersome to use, and only specialized labs typically use them. Luckily, much simpler reference electrodes have been developed that are very easy to use. The one that is typically used for measuring ORP is the silver/silver chloride (Ag/AgCl) electrode. These electrodes are typically included in ORP electrodes, even if the manufacturer does not specifically say so. Consequently, all ORP readings taken by aquarists (and all values quoted in this article unless otherwise stated) are using this reference electrode.

The Ag/AgCl electrode works as follows. Inside of such an electrode is a silver wire coated with silver chloride and surrounded by a solution saturated with potassium chloride. The reaction setting the potential for this reference electrode is:

AgCl(s) + e- <--> Ag(s) + Cl-

The potential for this reaction only depends on the concentration of chloride in the internal filling solution. Using a saturated potassium chloride (KCl) solution keeps the chloride concentration steady (at a given temperature), making this a good choice as a reference electrode. One then only needs a tiny electrical connection to the solution being measured to complete the circuit, and allow measurement of ORP using a platinum electrode.

One difference between the Ag/AgCl electrode and the standard hydrogen electrode is that they do not have the same potential voltage. If they did, and the potential difference between them was measured, there would be no voltage difference. However, it turns out that there is a voltage difference of about 199 mv at 25°C. Consequently, if one wants to interpret ORP in terms of the EH, one has to add 199 mv to the ORP reading to get EH.
I did read that earlier, but didn't really give me any insight to my low readings.
I have a small tank, that I used to raise berghias in, and since it's still running, crawling with critters I might just test that water and see if there's any significant difference.
 
I did read that earlier, but didn't really give me any insight to my low readings.
I have a small tank, that I used to raise berghias in, and since it's still running, crawling with critters I might just test that water and see if there's any significant difference.

Sounds like a fine idea. :)
 
Sounds like a fine idea. :)
Pretty much same readings with water from a different tank- 55 ish.
Rinsing the probe with tap water afterwards, increased the readings to about a hundred.
I'm not sure I trust this probe so ordered a new cheaper one just to see if readings a very different before ordering a more expensive one.
I'm planning on adding ozone to the setup in the near future, so would like to have ORP readings that I can trust.
 
Pretty much same readings with water from a different tank- 55 ish.
Rinsing the probe with tap water afterwards, increased the readings to about a hundred.
I'm not sure I trust this probe so ordered a new cheaper one just to see if readings a very different before ordering a more expensive one.
I'm planning on adding ozone to the setup in the near future, so would like to have ORP readings that I can trust.

Sounds like a fine plan. :)
 
Got the new (and cheap probe).
Measured the calibration fluid much to high on arrival so calibrated it.
After a day in the sump I measure 181, so a more reasonable value.
I got new calibration fluid on the way, as I don't really trust the one I have (not sure how old it is).

Does ORP usually swing doing the day/night like PH does? The old probe pretty much never moved more than 1 or 2 points.
 
Got the new (and cheap probe).
Measured the calibration fluid much to high on arrival so calibrated it.
After a day in the sump I measure 181, so a more reasonable value.
I got new calibration fluid on the way, as I don't really trust the one I have (not sure how old it is).

Does ORP usually swing doing the day/night like PH does? The old probe pretty much never moved more than 1 or 2 points.

Mine really only swings (significant drops below) when stop my return for feed cycke and/or dose my ChaetoGro.

I have a feeling that between the new probe and calibration soultion that you'll have even higher than 181. But I'm curious! :)


1743265085534.png
 
I don’t see any value in orp and any money spent figuring it out is a waste.

Tank looks great. Move on lol
 
I don’t see any value in orp and any money spent figuring it out is a waste.

Tank looks great. Move on lol

Well, I don't totally agree... ORP is a measurement of your tank’s water cleanliness and ability to break down waste.

It helps visualize the balance between oxidizers (oxygen, ozone, and chlorine) and reducers (like organic waste, ammonia, and fish waste).

Don’t chase a specific number... use ORP as a trend indicator, not something to "fix" daily.
 

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