OP
OP
Great advice!
Thanks for stopping in, hope to show some results here in the near future
Cheers
Perry's Shallow Water Acro Dominant Build Thread
- Thread starter Perry
- Start date
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Great advice!
Thanks for stopping in, hope to show some results here in the near future
Cheers
OP
OP
Thanks Siggy!
Very similar volume, and 5ml is the dose i decided on each day. Last NO3 test barely yielded color change with salifert. Will keep you all updated
OP
OP
Let's put it this way.....
DINOS!
Tank running blue only, corals not doing well, looking to run the tank dirty for awhile. Fish, lps, doing well, letting the tank settle, will continue the project, but in no hurry at this point, pushed the envelope, lesson learned
Thanks guys, hopefully next update will be more fun
DINOS!
Tank running blue only, corals not doing well, looking to run the tank dirty for awhile. Fish, lps, doing well, letting the tank settle, will continue the project, but in no hurry at this point, pushed the envelope, lesson learned
Thanks guys, hopefully next update will be more fun
Rickyrooz
Acropora Nut
Let's put it this way.....
DINOS!
Tank running blue only, corals not doing well, looking to run the tank dirty for awhile. Fish, lps, doing well, letting the tank settle, will continue the project, but in no hurry at this point, pushed the envelope, lesson learned
Thanks guys, hopefully next update will be more fun
Perry, I would suggest raising your alkalinity if you are planning to raise your nitrates and phosphates for higher nutrients. I made the switch and haven’t looked back.
Rickyrooz
Acropora Nut
No effect with Dino's, high nutrients with low alkalinity can cause issues with acro's peeling in my experience.
MrWheelock
Valuable Member
If I may, and if I'm off base please correct me. Raising the alkalinity allows more buffer when raising nitrates and phosphates. Raising nutrients has also anecdotally shown to help feed good bacteria opposed to running close to no nutrients where a sharp rise/shift in paramaters usually results in dinos.
Thank you gentlemen. What Dkh is Perry keeping right now and what level do you feel he should be at in order to prevent peeling?
OP
OP
Hi guys,
At this point, no ULNS supplements, just food VERY dry skim, and decided to put a mangrove in the rear compartment, where water returns from display. Will run light 24/7 for now, then 12 hour cycle down the road. Have decided to bump alk to 8.5 slowly from 7.3dkh. Only blue lights are running, lost most sps Dinos no joke, so sort of letting the tank run its natural course, not going to get into dosing this or that, just feed the fish, let them get fat. No filter sock, small amount of carbon in a reactor, that's it. I may use chaeto later. Hopefully I will get things on track after holidays, thanks for checking in
At this point, no ULNS supplements, just food VERY dry skim, and decided to put a mangrove in the rear compartment, where water returns from display. Will run light 24/7 for now, then 12 hour cycle down the road. Have decided to bump alk to 8.5 slowly from 7.3dkh. Only blue lights are running, lost most sps
Dinos no joke, so sort of letting the tank run its natural course, not going to get into dosing this or that, just feed the fish, let them get fat. No filter sock, small amount of carbon in a reactor, that's it. I may use chaeto later. Hopefully I will get things on track after holidays, thanks for checking in 
Sorry to hear about your recent struggles Perry. I had a horrible case of Dino’s pop up in my frag tank after adding some black egg crate that I couldn’t get rid off for months. My no3/po4 were and still are much higher than most ppl recommend in there and they didn’t seem to be bothering my sps at all but they were everywhere. So I did a 48 hour black out, turned the lights on for 3 or 4 hours to feed the fish and then did another 48 hour black out. I then went to 6 hours of blue light only for a week, and then added white for a week and then jumped up to 7 hours for a week and then 8 hours. I have not seen any Dino’s since.
This part you can read and say get off my thread, call me a moron or whatever, but I thought I should share my experiences. Not trying to start a debate here. This is just me trying to help and you’re free to react/not react however you prefer.
I’m not sure if you know anything about my system but I do not practice a natural seawater method, but I did try to when I got back into sps. I upgraded to my current system in aug 2017 and spent the first year and thousands of dollars chasing natural seawater levels because that’s what is recommended. I should of realized this was the wrong approach when my montis that I had for 7+ years that were fine while my previous tank was neglected, started stressing and dying. And when I say neglected I mean zero testing, maybe 1 water change a year and they never looked upset. They didn’t grow much over those years but they looked happy. So I stopped chasing, and all my acros stopped dying and started growing. I have posted many pics of my acros and some grow well and some not as fast as I would like or as fast as others think they should but they’re alive and colorful. I believe this is the most important, especially in a newer system. The last time I checked no3 my DT was around 15-25 if I remember correctly and 50 in my frag tank.
DT PO4
Frag PO4
Now I’m not suggesting you or anyone should chase these numbers either, but everyone should realize these are nothing to fear. I know you had previous success with natural seawater levels but I don’t know the full details. Did your previous tank start out as a NSW sps tank or did it slowly evolve to that state? Last thing I’ll share and then let you enjoy the rest of your Sunday. Even RedSea’s nopox, which I despise, recommends 0.08-0.12 po4 for sps frags
I hope this helps in some way.
This part you can read and say get off my thread, call me a moron or whatever, but I thought I should share my experiences. Not trying to start a debate here. This is just me trying to help and you’re free to react/not react however you prefer.
I’m not sure if you know anything about my system but I do not practice a natural seawater method, but I did try to when I got back into sps. I upgraded to my current system in aug 2017 and spent the first year and thousands of dollars chasing natural seawater levels because that’s what is recommended. I should of realized this was the wrong approach when my montis that I had for 7+ years that were fine while my previous tank was neglected, started stressing and dying. And when I say neglected I mean zero testing, maybe 1 water change a year and they never looked upset. They didn’t grow much over those years but they looked happy. So I stopped chasing, and all my acros stopped dying and started growing. I have posted many pics of my acros and some grow well and some not as fast as I would like or as fast as others think they should but they’re alive and colorful. I believe this is the most important, especially in a newer system. The last time I checked no3 my DT was around 15-25 if I remember correctly and 50 in my frag tank.
DT PO4
Frag PO4
Now I’m not suggesting you or anyone should chase these numbers either, but everyone should realize these are nothing to fear. I know you had previous success with natural seawater levels but I don’t know the full details. Did your previous tank start out as a NSW sps tank or did it slowly evolve to that state? Last thing I’ll share and then let you enjoy the rest of your Sunday. Even RedSea’s nopox, which I despise, recommends 0.08-0.12 po4 for sps frags
I hope this helps in some way.
OP
OP
Sorry to hear about your recent struggles Perry. I had a horrible case of Dino’s pop up in my frag tank after adding some black egg crate that I couldn’t get rid off for months. My no3/po4 were and still are much higher than most ppl recommend in there and they didn’t seem to be bothering my sps at all but they were everywhere. So I did a 48 hour black out, turned the lights on for 3 or 4 hours to feed the fish and then did another 48 hour black out. I then went to 6 hours of blue light only for a week, and then added white for a week and then jumped up to 7 hours for a week and then 8 hours. I have not seen any Dino’s since.
This part you can read and say get off my thread, call me a moron or whatever, but I thought I should share my experiences. Not trying to start a debate here. This is just me trying to help and you’re free to react/not react however you prefer.
I’m not sure if you know anything about my system but I do not practice a natural seawater method, but I did try to when I got back into sps. I upgraded to my current system in aug 2017 and spent the first year and thousands of dollars chasing natural seawater levels because that’s what is recommended. I should of realized this was the wrong approach when my montis that I had for 7+ years that were fine while my previous tank was neglected, started stressing and dying. And when I say neglected I mean zero testing, maybe 1 water change a year and they never looked upset. They didn’t grow much over those years but they looked happy. So I stopped chasing, and all my acros stopped dying and started growing. I have posted many pics of my acros and some grow well and some not as fast as I would like or as fast as others think they should but they’re alive and colorful. I believe this is the most important, especially in a newer system. The last time I checked no3 my DT was around 15-25 if I remember correctly and 50 in my frag tank.
DT PO4
Frag PO4
Now I’m not suggesting you or anyone should chase these numbers either, but everyone should realize these are nothing to fear. I know you had previous success with natural seawater levels but I don’t know the full details. Did your previous tank start out as a NSW sps tank or did it slowly evolve to that state? Last thing I’ll share and then let you enjoy the rest of your Sunday. Even RedSea’s nopox, which I despise, recommends 0.08-0.12 po4 for sps frags
I hope this helps in some way.
Thank you for taking the time and sharing your experience! I am not stuck to any particular approach, but ULNS and NSW has been my approach in SPS care. However, my previous tank did convert to that type of system, with full colonies. They did react well and thrive, especially the colors
I think you are on to something as it relates to newer systems and frags. At the point where I am going to just let the tank run, not going to worry over numbers, so maybe it will turn around, maybe not. I appreciate your feedback and advice, thanks again for some great info! Cheers
Happy to help, and I’m positive it’ll turn around for you. Pm me when you’re ready for some frags.Thank you for taking the time and sharing your experience! I am not stuck to any particular approach, but ULNS and NSW has been my approach in SPS care. However, my previous tank did convert to that type of system, with full colonies. They did react well and thrive, especially the colors
Cheers
OP
OP
OP
OP
This morning upon lights turning on, immediately noticed purple stylo showing 80% pe, from around 20% for about a week or more. Looked over damaged slimer, a couple of washed montis, noticed strings of dinos appear white, looked over rocks, looks clean. This is promising, and here are a few things that were done upon discovery of dinos.
1. 72 hour blackout last week
2. Dosed chemi clean for cyano prior to blackout.
3. Stopped all bacteria, aminos, carbon source, vitamins,
4. No skimming during blackout, and week after, airstone running 24/7 while skimmer offline.
5. 15 gallon water change a week after blackout
6. Resumed active carbon after blackout
7. Suspended use of halide, running only blues on LEDs
8. Put mangrove on 24 hour light cycle
9. Removed filter sock
10. Resumed skimming, set to very dry, only collection after feeding
11. Raised alkalinity from 7.0 to 8.0, now another bump to 8.5
So, I essentially decided to run more natural approach, but per some great advice, bringing alk up, and running at levels that I haven't in 10 years or more. Now it looks like lots of changes, but really nothing major, if I were to guess, the corals alive seem to appreciate the bump in alk. Will maybe test nutrients later, just to verify. Feeding heavy on frozen multiple times per day.
1. 72 hour blackout last week
2. Dosed chemi clean for cyano prior to blackout.
3. Stopped all bacteria, aminos, carbon source, vitamins,
4. No skimming during blackout, and week after, airstone running 24/7 while skimmer offline.
5. 15 gallon water change a week after blackout
6. Resumed active carbon after blackout
7. Suspended use of halide, running only blues on LEDs
8. Put mangrove on 24 hour light cycle
9. Removed filter sock
10. Resumed skimming, set to very dry, only collection after feeding
11. Raised alkalinity from 7.0 to 8.0, now another bump to 8.5
So, I essentially decided to run more natural approach, but per some great advice, bringing alk up, and running at levels that I haven't in 10 years or more. Now it looks like lots of changes, but really nothing major, if I were to guess, the corals alive seem to appreciate the bump in alk. Will maybe test nutrients later, just to verify. Feeding heavy on frozen multiple times per day.
OP
OP
So some fairly good news today, decided to introduce halide back online for 3 hours. Noticing continued decline in dinos, yesterday the ones on back glass had strings up to 4" long. Today, and this is weird, but appears that the dinos are being consumed be green glass algae, no strings. Even seeing reduction of dinos on corals requiring daily basting. Not out of the clear, but glass algae gives me a happy feeling, knowing nutrients are present. Lps looking great, WD is healthy through all of this, Pink Cadi looking better, who knows, maybe I can save a few. Also now seeing coraline algae starting to pop up, another good sign. That's about it for now
Cheers
Cheers
OP
OP
7.0 to now 8.5
drawman
2500 Club Member
Let's put it this way.....
DINOS!
Tank running blue only, corals not doing well, looking to run the tank dirty for awhile. Fish, lps, doing well, letting the tank settle, will continue the project, but in no hurry at this point, pushed the envelope, lesson learned
Thanks guys, hopefully next update will be more fun
Hi guys,
At this point, no ULNS supplements, just food VERY dry skim, and decided to put a mangrove in the rear compartment, where water returns from display. Will run light 24/7 for now, then 12 hour cycle down the road. Have decided to bump alk to 8.5 slowly from 7.3dkh. Only blue lights are running, lost most sps
Glad to hear of the turnaround Perry. I've been in the same boat with dinos/cyano so I may employ your approach along with a UV sterilizer.
The bump in Alk is a new thing to me. I'm definitely aware of issues with high alk and low nutrients but not the reverse. That may explain (along with the dinos) why I've been having an issue with acros over the last couple of weeks while trying to raise nutrients.
OP
OP
Hey Tim,
Seems for me, some rock in the tank was not so cycled, this led to a major hair outbreak, which was handled with a large CUC addition. The algae broke quickly, not just from clean up crew, but likely lack of growth led to a po4 bottom out, was already struggling with super low NO3, so after the algae died off and consumed. During this time I was running skimmer, adding bacteria and carbon source, as well as NO3 additions, a perfect storm for bottomed out nutrients, then sps upset, then dinos. Dinos are all but gone, didn't expect a quick recovery, but as mentioned yesterday, the same today with green glass algae forming, and dinos fading. I feel resetting bacteria with Chemi clean cyano remover was what helped, as well as blackout, but oddly enough, the halide daylight may also have something to do with it. I highly doubt that 1 mangrove shoot with 3rd set of leaves is helping the cause, just weird...It does appear that the remaining corals are appreciating the halide too, lol. Time will tell
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