Pondering Triton Method

[VegasUSP]

So I'm thinking about converting to the Triton Method for my 120g. I've been reading up on it and I see you need to have a refugium as large as possible in order to run the system effectively. This is my main sticking point. On my 120g I have a Trigger Systems Ruby 36S Sump with the refugium section only being about 12g. Now this was never a problem before as I've never had a refugium, only biopellets and a algae scrubber.

My question is would the Triton method still be effective for me if I ran my Turbo's Aquatics scrubber, along with a small refugium in the sump with some Dragon's Breath, Chaeto, etc.

I'm not sure if anyone out there is running the Triton method like this, so I figured I'd ask here. Thanks for any input!

 

[d2mini]

So I'm thinking about converting to the Triton Method for my 120g. I've been reading up on it and I see you need to have a refugium as large as possible in order to run the system effectively. This is my main sticking point. On my 120g I have a Trigger Systems Ruby 36S Sump with the refugium section only being about 12g. Now this was never a problem before as I've never had a refugium, only biopellets and a algae scrubber.

My question is would the Triton method still be effective for me if I ran my Turbo's Aquatics scrubber, along with a small refugium in the sump with some Dragon's Breath, Chaeto, etc.

I'm not sure if anyone out there is running the Triton method like this, so I figured I'd ask here. Thanks for any input!

Triton recommends a 10-20% of display volume sized refugium so technically you would be just within that.
Mine is 15%.
You could go with what you have and you could always add the scrubber later. I'd be afraid they'd compete with each other but not sure.
Hopefully the Triton guys will chime in. Not sure were they are lately... vacation maybe? There's a few unanswered questions in here.

 

[Tim@Triton]

Hi guys sorry I've been away.

Right, traditionally to run the "Triton Method" we say no to the ATS, we want the algae bed to receive as much of the system nutrients as possible as the macro algae is the catalyst for the whole system to work. Now some customers run modified methods to suit their own needs and the only real proviso I would say with doing that is to test (ICP) more regularly in the beginning to make sure that nothing is accumulating or going awry.

One product that would be perfect for you would be the new Core7 Reef Supplements, it has the benefits of the Triton Method without having to use an algae refugium, it can be used in conjunction with all methods.

I will be releasing more information about the new products hopefully over the next 24hrs so stay tuned for that.

 

[VegasUSP]

Thanks for the replies! I'll think I will just hold off on the ATS and start with the refugium and see how that works for me. Like @d2mini said, I'm just within the recommendations. @Tim@Triton thanks for chiming in, I'm interested in reading about these new Core7 supplements.

I'm really intrigued by the Triton method hopefully it works out well for me!

 

[VegasUSP]

Just sent my first ICP test off today. So I'll be able to start making corrections here in a few weeks. I've been using Red Sea Coral Pro, any water change corrections done from here on out should be made with Triton Salt or Tropic Marin Pro correct?

 

[Triton US]

Just sent my first ICP test off today. So I'll be able to start making corrections here in a few weeks. I've been using Red Sea Coral Pro, any water change corrections done from here on out should be made with Triton Salt or Tropic Marin Pro correct?

Correct. We do like Tropic Marin Pro becuase it mixes up to close to Natural Sea Water parameters which is what Triton aims to target. The triton Pure salt would ONLY be used if you wanted to dilute some high levels of trace elements from your system. This salt does not contain trace elements so it should never be used for regular maintenance water changes. There is a new, high quality complete Triton salt mix that will be available shortly in the US which can be used for all water change needs.

 

[BetURWrasse]

I was using TM Pro but switched to Red Sea Blue Bucket and my numbers have been better and corals are looking good. Plus it's cheaper

 

[d2mini]

I was using TM Pro but switched to Red Sea Blue Bucket and my numbers have been better and corals are looking good. Plus it's cheaper

Interesting but why are you doing water changes?
Salt isn't used for "your numbers" in the Triton Method. It's used to get an initial base-line before starting dosing the Base Elements.
Water changes are only used in the case of needed corrections.
Or are you not doing following the Triton Method???

 

[BetURWrasse]

Well your salt does effect numbers which is why you go with the recommended brands. according to tests I've needed to do changes. Depending on what's going on the tests tell you to do so much for a few weeks. Now that I have everything equaled out I don't do them. Just use some saltwater to top off sometime when salinity drops.

 

[d2mini]

Well your salt does effect numbers which is why you go with the recommended brands

I get that for the average reefer, but if you are doing the TM, and you're dosing the base elements and not doing WC's, what is there to "switch" to?
How would the occasional top off effect your numbers?
I'm new to triton so I'm curious. I'm also new to Tropic Marin. Always used AquaVitro Salinity in the past.

Now if you are talking about making corrections with occasional water changes, the results of using one brand over the other would depend on what was actually wrong with your system, no?
And some salts are elevated in certain parameters which is why Triton recommends Tropic Marin because it's fairly level across the board.
So if you are keeping parameters steady with the Base Elements, it makes sense to use Tropic Marin salt so you don't throw things out of whack. Doesn't?

Sorry, I'm just trying to understand your previous comment about switching salts.

 

[BetURWrasse]

No problem, they recommend TM Pro and Red Sea Blue. I just went the route that's easier for me to get.

 

[VegasUSP]

So the results are in. Apparently I have high levels of Tin in my system. My hinges on the door of my stand are rusted so i'm guessing that is the culprit of the Tin levels being so high. Can anybody tell me what negative effects Tin can have? I just got my refugium light in yesterday, so I'll hook that up and get some chaeto going in the fuge here in the next week. What other types of macro algae should I look into? I'll be starting my six weekly 20% water changes tomorrow. Other that that here are the results, chime in if you can provide advice. Thanks! @Tim@Triton

P.S. My alk tested at 8.5 today via Hanna Checker.

 

[Tim@Triton]

On the whole not too bad, the tin will soon come down with the WC as long as you have found the source.

Your salinity might be a little on the high side with all the Macro-Elements reading slightly high so might be worth checking your refractometer for calibration.

I would not worry about any of the traces for now until you have your stable dose in and you have completed all the WC

 

[VegasUSP]

Thanks @Tim@Triton, I checked the salinity with my Milwaukee digital refractometer and it was a little high at 1.027. So I'll be sure to bring that down to 1.025. I really appreciate the help, you and @d2mini have been super helpful as I start this Triton process!