Popbloom Turing75 - Any one have input/suggestions?

[spideybry]

yes 50% is right, 50% for me at 10.5 depth where my sps are is 250 par. so my range is 50%-71% = 250-350 @ 10.5 depth and 3'' height. i only used mid point for calculation, ill use an average point 2,3,4 to make more accurate range for sps along midline under lights.

i havent programmed anything yet , its just 50/50/50/50, and i manual it to 0/5/0/0 for the night but i guess ill use something like 25/85/60/30?
what are channels are you using? you can also set the limit % and run vivid settings it looks like, i plan on using the preset lunar cycle + an off period at the least.

im also wondering why point 2 and 4 are higher than point 3 .

just my opinion but why did they put white 20k along the back only,.. i dont mind much , but i would have put a few in the front for equality . what side is your front?

Right now my photo period is 12 hours total, 8 hours max, and then 4 hours actinic (just blues).

When you say you are wondering why point 2 and 4 are higher than point 3, are you referring to my points? They have a dip in number because they are further back in the tank (off center from the light), whereas point 3 is right under the light so it gets more light.

I also decided to just omit the 12k whites for now, might reintroduce them later though.

Schedule:

This is roughly how much PAR this schedule is putting out at MAX -

I thought about running their show vivid color schedule and doing a limit, but I like the way blues look when they're on by themselves too.

All that being said, I still am weary about melting corals with these lights lol. I just bought a few new frags that I want to see how they handle with this updated schedule. I bleached a few SPS, they aren't dead yet thankfully, but yeah I am scared.

I vote start very low and bring it back up to a good point over time. It's also a shame that they don't post what their other presets are.

Also, agreed, the white strip along the back is not what I would have done... My white strip is along the back of my light, toward the back of the tank.

 

[GSnake]

i was referring to the sept 5th post and sept 7th with the uncolored grids, 1" depth in both 7.5 height and ~9'' height. im just expecting them to be completely even, in terms of par, under the light, since there should be adequate/even coverage on either side of measurement.

ya i really liked the only blue mode too, after white/blue mixed during the day, a few hours of super coral pop is nice~.
right now im running vivid and lunar mode, but set a output limit to roughly 75% each, [totalling for 350par at 10.5% inch depth]. everything seems ok so far, Corals and fish are just adjusting to the new tank I think
you are in the safe zone now, thanks the par meter! ill update again when corals establish themselves again.

 

[spideybry]

i was referring to the sept 5th post and sept 7th with the uncolored grids, 1" depth in both 7.5 height and ~9'' height. im just expecting them to be completely even, in terms of par, under the light, since there should be adequate/even coverage on either side of measurement.

ya i really liked the only blue mode too, after white/blue mixed during the day, a few hours of super coral pop is nice~.
right now im running vivid and lunar mode, but set a output limit to roughly 75% each, [totalling for 350par at 10.5% inch depth]. everything seems ok so far, Corals and fish are just adjusting to the new tank I think
you are in the safe zone now, thanks the par meter! ill update again when corals establish themselves again.

Ah, this makes more sense now. Yeah, got to keep in mind that the way the LEDs are laid out on this light aren't really "mixed" they are in a specific pattern which leads to odd spots that aren't a good blend of PAR.

For example, the RED SQUARE has all the 12k LEDs which are all toward the back of the light.

Then you have this GREEN SQUARE which has an extra line of blues thrown in... Very odd layout.

So imo, the closer these lights get to the water surface, the less the PAR will blend (similar to the BRS tests for PAR on Black Box Lights).

Btw, if you look at the light, it is roughly 30" in width - each LED is about an inch according to the diagram below.

That would mean that the center of the tank is POINT A (which is closest to a white channel - lower PAR), where as POINTS B (more under blue, stronger PAR LEDs) are the rough midpoints toward the edge of the tank. The dip in PAR at center is expected I think.

I am glad things are working for you, make sure to keep me posted.

So far I think things are good now, nothing is really bleaching or getting worse, I upped my peak to be A20 B100 C55 D45.

 

[GSnake]

dsuny aka popbloom said it was a technological restraint, as to why the whites are only on the back, its due to the channel setup, but they will likely change it up for a future model.

i do not think the blue leds output more par than the others, only on a generalized basis because of the ratio of blue leds to white, a little more than 2:1, but even then they layout is moreso balanced from left to right,.. i am thinking it might be due to an artifact, like glass reflection, (thinking back to brs videos on radion and blackbox etc, - they had a few unknown readings and oddballs too, and they attributed them to the glass and back wall (if painted black, or some other color).

 

[oreo54]

dsuny aka popbloom said it was a technological restraint, as to why the whites are only on the back, its due to the channel setup, but they will likely change it up for a future model.

i do not think the blue leds output more par than the others, only on a generalized basis because of the ratio of blue leds to white, a little more than 2:1, but even then they layout is moreso balanced from left to right,.. i am thinking it might be due to an artifact, like glass reflection, (thinking back to brs videos on radion and blackbox etc, - they had a few unknown readings and oddballs too, and they attributed them to the glass and back wall (if painted black, or some other color).

Dark paint will cut par at that side. Weird physics thing.
On the freshwater side never recommended other than custom spectrums.
I've tried to get them to " see the light" but never got anywhere.
Haven't tried to "rearrange" there reef lights though.
They sort of get a tad "stubborn" regarding it but they comply.
That one 12000k ish on the blue channel was err baffling to say the least.

 

[GSnake]

i just recalculated and turns out my post about 75% for 350 par was typed wrong, i just put it at 75% for acclimation (200par). but i calculated 320 par at 100% at 9/10 inch depth and 3' mounting height. -- and this coordinates with your numbers too, so I am going to be transitioning slowly to 100%. I wonder how it will look after a week or so, it already seemed bright to me visually.

hows lunar mode going? i am enjoying the low intensity blue on auto during the night, but find the 25% it peaks at in the middle of the month a little too bright... i dont mind much, but may consider putting it at a static 13% during the night.
i might end up using/trying 4 seasons mode in the next coming weeks, just to coordinate tank time with outside daylight hours better.

a little off topic, but i ordered a gyre this week. new tank, new equipment

 

[spideybry]

i just recalculated and turns out my post about 75% for 350 par was typed wrong, i just put it at 75% for acclimation (200par). but i calculated 320 par at 100% at 9/10 inch depth and 3' mounting height. -- and this coordinates with your numbers too, so I am going to be transitioning slowly to 100%. I wonder how it will look after a week or so, it already seemed bright to me visually.

hows lunar mode going? i am enjoying the low intensity blue on auto during the night, but find the 25% it peaks at in the middle of the month a little too bright... i dont mind much, but may consider putting it at a static 13% during the night.
i might end up using/trying 4 seasons mode in the next coming weeks, just to coordinate tank time with outside daylight hours better.

a little off topic, but i ordered a gyre this week. new tank, new equipment

Nice, let me know how things are going on your end with some pictures.

I don't have a "lunar mode" going, just running around 5% on Chan. C because I like how it looks and that's it. The lunar mode I did try/look at seemed way too bright for a lunar mode.

Nicee got to love good new equipment. Do you have a build thread somewhere?

In terms of my lights, I had to cut them back a bit. I am fighting back dinos now -_- so all my attention has been shifted to dealing with that as best I can. So far the corals seem okay though, nothing bleaching since I introduced new things.

 

[GSnake]

hey ,

how is the light coming along? for the most part its doing ok on my end, hard to say but i suspect some photoinhibition, from too much light. I also noticed some burnt areas on my old acros, but it could be related to chemistry swings or change in spectrum, cause im using a lot more white (balanced approach) this time around, before it was predominantly blue (70% blue to 15% white, with blackbox). I Havent experienced much growth yet either, but it may be also due to half new system restabilization.

anyways, the point i wanted to make was I had bought a few new acros and although they experienced some mild tip bleaching from rushing light acclimation process, I also wanted to consider the LED's being too bright in general. by looking at a few posts elsewhere i read that using a par meter for LEDS is not the most accurate way to find out how much should be used, and a footcandle meter should be also considered when setting lighting up. due to LED intensity you may be setting the light stronger than it should be.

also in the same thread were reports of people doing better with lower setting LED for optimal growth and coloration, (like they stated 50% of what it should be), i think this may be due to intensity as well. so if i calculated 100% for 350 par in my tank, I should really be at 50% for 175 par. Maybe we are dramatically raising the settings for our LEDS. I never got to 100%, I think it was too much for my coral at 90%, Im currently at 70% and bringing them down to 60% feels better/safer. what are you doing with yours?

 

[spideybry]

Hey, I never trusted the preset lighting schedule - I always felt it was overpowered for what it was.

I made my own schedule and have been using it with some success. A couple of the SPS haven't liked it but that's to be expected with a new-ish tank.

How is your tank looking?

At peak photoperiod:
A-30% - B-0% - C90% - D20%
Should yield me what is below.

Here is an up to date FTS:

 

[GSnake]

yes i also changed it today to similar to yours and what mines use to be, a 25/70/80/75 channels, more like 1:3 white to blue, .. running the first channel at 70 with the others was unstable, though algae liked it, cant say same for corals, and placement of the ch 1 leds is wierd so it makes tank look so white in the back.

moving forward ill have a FTS this week probably,.. but i have to receive my coral shipment first tomorrow, indo gold and dragon soul torches on the way

my moon light is 0/5/5/0

 

[spideybry]

yes i also changed it today to similar to yours and what mines use to be, a 25/70/80/75 channels, more like 1:3 white to blue, .. running the first channel at 70 with the others was unstable, though algae liked it, cant say same for corals, and placement of the ch 1 leds is wierd so it makes tank look so white in the back.

moving forward ill have a FTS this week probably,.. but i have to receive my coral shipment first tomorrow, indo gold and dragon soul torches on the way

my moon light is 0/5/5/0

I am running into the same thing, that white channel in the back is just odd and the temperature seems so yellow compared to the other channels. Though, lately I find myself liking the warmer look, I hate that the unit lines them along the back unfortunately.

Looking forward to seeing the FTS.

 

[spideybry]

Here is my tank so far. I decided to get another light for a new tank I set up right along side my DT, same light brand - just an added light fixture so it runs with the same controller.

The new fixture, while it has the same LEDs, has different reflectors so one "looks" a bit brighter than the other. I haven't done a PAR test on the new lights though.

 

[GSnake]

nice new setup,

i borrowed a par meter today and will be doing testing on my tank. and a FTS will follow with my results

im wondering if my estimate is anywhere near measured amounts

 

[spideybry]

nice new setup,

i borrowed a par meter today and will be doing testing on my tank. and a FTS will follow with my results

im wondering if my estimate is anywhere near measured amounts

Thanks.

Cool, let us know how it looks. I definitely need to take the PAR meter to my new tank - but just off of how it is running so far, the new reflectors/optics definitely push more light downward - which is bleaching some of my frags. I am really annoyed with this since the idea was to be able to go back and forth with no issues. Guess you get what you pay for lol.

 

[Josh Will]

Here is my tank so far. I decided to get another light for a new tank I set up right along side my DT, same light brand - just an added light fixture so it runs with the same controller.

The new fixture, while it has the same LEDs, has different reflectors so one "looks" a bit brighter than the other. I haven't done a PAR test on the new lights though.

It looks great! The left one is smaller lamp?

 

[spideybry]

It looks great! The left one is smaller lamp?

It is - tied to the other one, all controlled by the same controller. The difference in reflector is an issue though. Probably not for others, but it is for me lol. But they don't look bad at least.

 

[GSnake]

This is how some of my readings look. I took it from top down view and from a frontal view. I would say the estimates I did earlier were pretty accurate. I was aiming for 70 - 100% power to get the par numbers that are recommended. Using the same range. Lights are 85% now. Still waiting on sps growth and basing out, encrusting, on a few frags I got, then im gonna jump into filling the top half with sps. Almost no old sps survived my tank transfer unfortunately.

All in all, no significant coral growth yet. Aside from coralline. It's just a matter of time now I think.

 

[spideybry]

This is how some of my readings look. I took it from top down view and from a frontal view. I would say the estimates I did earlier were pretty accurate. I was aiming for 70 - 100% power to get the par numbers that are recommended. Using the same range. Lights are 85% now. Still waiting on sps growth and basing out, encrusting, on a few frags I got, then im gonna jump into filling the top half with sps. Almost no old sps survived my tank transfer unfortunately.

All in all, no significant coral growth yet. Aside from coralline. It's just a matter of time now I think.

Once the tank stabilizes I am sure it will start growing. Coralline is a good sign as well.

You've definitely got a ton of PAR where your SPS are, am I reading that right? Points QRST hitting around 500ish?

 

[GSnake]

Yes at 100% and these four readings are at 10 inches depth. At 100% yes the sps are getting a ton more than their minimum requirements, however im barely meeting the minimum recommendation for the acans on sandbed and other lps like scoly, had to reposition my cynarina the other day due to this.

Two light fixtures would provide more even coverage and strength I lack at the sand bed. It would also provide the sps with light from the sides too rather than mostly on top only. I might get another unit and rent another par meter down the road

 

[neonreef3d]

Hey all, I recently purchased a setup which came with this light linked below. This light is currently on a 30g tank that is 36x15x13.

万全云电商 - 国内最专业的跨境电商解决方案

www.popbloom.store

Now, I've tried looking up any reviews or anything that are about these lights specifically (not just Popbloom/dsuny) and have been coming up empty.

The lights seem to have good PAR according to their specs, but then again - not sure if that's true. Supposedly 300-350 PAR at 10".

Since it's been a while that I've been in this hobby (I got out when LED's were just becoming a thing and I ran 1st gen AI Sol Lights which were white and two different types of blues only), I am trying to hammer down an appropriate light schedule and lighting intensity. Below is the layout of the board and what LED's are on the channels.

So, here was my old light schedule and new:

Now, based off the light panel schematics, I am just curious if my corals will be getting enough. I felt like I was blasting them too much and decided to back off a bit.

I am desperately in need of borrowing or renting a PAR meter so I can figure out what each channel can produce, I feel like that channel 3 is a wild card and I don't know how much it blasts my corals.

Any input is welcome btw, feel free to chime in with anything.

Random frag test at the bottom center of the tank - I think it was getting hit too much with light and so I dropped back and moved it back to the frag rack.

Also here is a shot of peeling the film off the lights, previous owner forgot to remove it:

I ordered the t50 x 2. waited 5 days to get a tracking #, they said that they send it out and are waiting for the tracking #. I told myself that I'm not going to play into their games, and asked for a refund after not receiving a tracking # for the package i paid for 5 days ago.

They refunded my money after filing a complaint with eek-bay ....

I say just bite the bullet and get a brand in the US that will somehow support you if you have issues, I can use a soldering gun really well, Im trying to enjoy my tank by having fun, not fixing things all the time.

I just ask myself, how many times will i need to replace the power supply, and who do i order those same leds from when they go bad, how long will it take to receive the parts from china>???

just ask yourself, do you want to fix lights or enjoy your tank??

Im done with cheap crap and cheap products!!