Power Supplies - Why don't we talk about them?

[Reefer1978]

Looking at many build threads, I see folks investing into multiple EB832, Cheap surge protectors, DJ switching outlets (still cheap IMHO and rusts over time), etc as we use many different components and each comes with it's own plug. I had a curious thought, why not consolidate multiple peaces of equipment onto less individual, higher quality power supplies with adaptors?

Here's my reasoning for the idea. I have a 6 ft tank, with 4 ReefFactory units on it, 2 dosing pumps, continuous pump for Kalk and a smart roller. They all came with the same cheapo plug, shorter cables with 2.1mm plugs, identical specs on plugs even though pumps are all different drawing different amount of current. Smart Roller is on the other side of the tank and plug would not reach the outlet, would have to run an extension cord which looks ugly. After some research and confirmation of polarity, for about $25 off of Amazon I got a 2A power adapter (enough to run all 4 units as they don't all run at the same time), 4-way splitter, and a 6ft extension for the Smart Roller. Worked beautifully, and now they are occupying 1 outlet instead of 4.

I won't be able to consolidate all equipment, Radions for example use a lot of power, but I want to try to add all MP40s on a single power supply. Curious if other's had a similar thought?

 

[exnisstech]

Tagging along because I have 17 devices on one tank I think 13 have power bricks.
Maybe take a look at the DCBuddy if you haven't already. I read a little about it but its way over my head.

Tired of AC bricks? Try the DCBuddy

================================ Important Information - Documentation site: https://reefvolt.com/ - Documentation and open hardware/firmware files are on GitHub: https://github.com/blueacro/reefvolt-dcbuddy - Ready to use boards are now in early access! DM me for details. - Latest update...

www.reef2reef.com

 

[slingfox]

This is also the idea behind the Kraken:

HYDROS Kraken 24V Power Center

The Kraken introduces a new concept in aquarium controllers and provides high-power 24V DC switched outputs and a large heavy-duty power supply. This allows “power bricks” and “wall warts” to be removed from aquarium systems, significantly reducing wire clutter. *Cables required; sold separately.

www.coralvue.com

 

[Reefer1978]

Tagging along because I have 17 devices on one tank I think 13 have power bricks.
Maybe take a look at the DCBuddy if you haven't already. I read a little about it but its way over my head.

Tired of AC bricks? Try the DCBuddy

================================ Important Information - Documentation site: https://reefvolt.com/ - Documentation and open hardware/firmware files are on GitHub: https://github.com/blueacro/reefvolt-dcbuddy - Ready to use boards are now in early access! DM me for details. - Latest update...

www.reef2reef.com

Great idea indeed, but with the power supply, we are very close to EB832 pricing.

This is also the idea behind the Kraken:

HYDROS Kraken 24V Power Center

The Kraken introduces a new concept in aquarium controllers and provides high-power 24V DC switched outputs and a large heavy-duty power supply. This allows “power bricks” and “wall warts” to be removed from aquarium systems, significantly reducing wire clutter. *Cables required; sold separately.

www.coralvue.com

Ouch on the price tag, I would have expected more power at that price range. Proprietary cables can also be a pain to work with, but yes, this is kind of what I was thinking.

 

[slingfox]

Great idea indeed, but with the power supply, we are very close to EB832 pricing.


Ouch on the price tag, I would have expected more power at that price range. Proprietary cables can also be a pain to work with, but yes, this is kind of what I was thinking.

Yeah the price on the Kraken is a huge impediment for many. I hope more alternatives come out.

 

[Reefer1978]

$100 Meanwell powersupply should be able to power 4 MP40s. Hmmm decisions decisions...

 

[Freenow54]

Looking at many build threads, I see folks investing into multiple EB832, Cheap surge protectors, DJ switching outlets (still cheap IMHO and rusts over time), etc as we use many different components and each comes with it's own plug. I had a curious thought, why not consolidate multiple peaces of equipment onto less individual, higher quality power supplies with adaptors?

Here's my reasoning for the idea. I have a 6 ft tank, with 4 ReefFactory units on it, 2 dosing pumps, continuous pump for Kalk and a smart roller. They all came with the same cheapo plug, shorter cables with 2.1mm plugs, identical specs on plugs even though pumps are all different drawing different amount of current. Smart Roller is on the other side of the tank and plug would not reach the outlet, would have to run an extension cord which looks ugly. After some research and confirmation of polarity, for about $25 off of Amazon I got a 2A power adapter (enough to run all 4 units as they don't all run at the same time), 4-way splitter, and a 6ft extension for the Smart Roller. Worked beautifully, and now they are occupying 1 outlet instead of 4.

I won't be able to consolidate all equipment, Radions for example use a lot of power, but I want to try to add all MP40s on a single power supply. Curious if other's had a similar thought?

There is a much better supplier in The US for you DigiKey. More money but good quality. They are an electronics, electrical supplier. There is a Canadian branch as well , but they ship from the Us worth the time to look

 

[Reefer1978]

There is a much better supplier in The US for you DigiKey. More money but good quality. They are an electronics, electrical supplier. There is a Canadian branch as well , but they ship from the Us worth the time to look

I've been browsing their selection, but not too many options for 32v.

 

[VintageReefer]

I've been browsing their selection, but not too many options for 32v.

I am actually working on eliminating power supplies and running dc to dc off a LiFePO4 power stations, which then gives me backup power in outages.

I converted my 1000gph 24v dc return pump to USBC and eliminated the power brick, saved 6w of power draw, and gained 20 hours of runtime on my battery backup system

Next up will be my mp40 and mp10

 

[Reefer1978]

I am actually working on eliminating power supplies and running dc to dc off a LiFePO4 power stations, which then gives me backup power in outages.

I converted my 1000gph 24v dc return pump to USBC and eliminated the power brick, saved 6w of power draw, and gained 20 hours of runtime on my battery backup system

Next up will be my mp40 and mp10

That sounds awesome!!

 

[Freenow54]

I've been browsing their selection, but not too many options for 32v.

Unrelated but I have this really heavy duty no name on it decades old, what must be a potentiometer variable from zero to 100 percent? Too lazy to get my voltmeter out of my truck.120Volts input I have always wondered if you could use it on a shaded pole motor which again I assume is what a powerhead is? Or would it burn it out

 

[Freenow54]

I am actually working on eliminating power supplies and running dc to dc off a LiFePO4 power stations, which then gives me backup power in outages.

I converted my 1000gph 24v dc return pump to USBC and eliminated the power brick, saved 6w of power draw, and gained 20 hours of runtime on my battery backup system

Next up will be my mp40 and mp10

So how did you do that conversion ?

 

[W31Olds]

Digikey, Mouser or Newark has hundreds of DC Supplies that could run multiple items. I used to spec DIN Rail Mounted Power Supplies for work for industrial applications. The good, more reliable and cleaner power, the bad more expensive and many are open frame so I wouldn't mount one in a sump cabinet.

 

[Reefer1978]

So how did you do that conversion ?

So how did you do that conversion ?

I am guessing usb > dc adapters, there are plenty of those

 

[VintageReefer]

So how did you do that conversion ?

i bought a dc car adapter kit for a laptop to source the parts and did some research

Cig lighter is 12v but laptops can need up to typically 19 or 20v

The kit comes with a cigarette lighter to dc power brick that outputs variable up to 24v. So it steps up the voltage to whatever the laptop needs, and it does so with a usbc output.

Usbc can handle up to 28v in certain conditions, but can easily do 20v. There is a handshake procedure in usbc where the device pulling and device sending communicate and determine the save amount of power to send.

After I got the kit I realized I don’t need the dc to dc brick, and I could just use the other parts to go from usb c to the correct power tip to fit my return pump controller

Pic 1 is my return 1000gph dc pump, 40% power, plugged into the ac outlet on my stations inverter. The power station is unplugged from the wall simulating an outage, and on battery alone. Runtime using the inverter and standard ac wall outlet / power brick is 35 hours.

Pic 2 I removed the power brick entirely, and I have usbc cable in the power station, and the other end of the cable has the correct dc tip that fits my return pump controller. So it’s just a wire with no brick. At the same 40% power, and removing the inefficient brick, the watt draw dropped by 6 watts, and runtime jumps to 57 hours

Unused parts

 

[Freenow54]

I am guessing usb > dc adapters, there are plenty of those

all I know is that the DC signal goes into the potentiometer motor control via a circular pin not USB unless I am missing something and comes out of the converter if you will with solid wire, and goes through what I can only assume is a choke. so if you convert again correct me you would eliminate the converter and add a usb. Which , and I have to do more learning the LifePO4 that I looked at had pronged outputs as well as usb I have to read more to understand that. Guess what while I was typing this the explanation appeared from vintagereefer. Thanks so much for the effort.

 

[OriginalUserName]

Can we also talk about how almost no company bothers to label their power bricks? Like I paid $1k for a new light and I have to put my own label on it?

 

[Freenow54]

Can we also talk about how almost no company bothers to label their power bricks? Like I paid $1k for a new light and I have to put my own label on it?

Back in the day I was the certified Health, and Safety member. My manager loved to go to what here is the Electrical Safety Authority web page and print off warnings about Electrical , and Electronic devices appliances made in China. They forge UL stickers or simply don't test them. So beware

 

[Freenow54]

i bought a dc car adapter kit for a laptop to source the parts and did some research

Cig lighter is 12v but laptops can need up to typically 19 or 20v

The kit comes with a cigarette lighter to dc power brick that outputs variable up to 24v. So it steps up the voltage to whatever the laptop needs, and it does so with a usbc output.

Usbc can handle up to 28v in certain conditions, but can easily do 20v. There is a handshake procedure in usbc where the device pulling and device sending communicate and determine the save amount of power to send.

After I got the kit I realized I don’t need the dc to dc brick, and I could just use the other parts to go from usb c to the correct power tip to fit my return pump controller

Pic 1 is my return 1000gph dc pump, 40% power, plugged into the ac outlet on my stations inverter. The power station is unplugged from the wall simulating an outage, and on battery alone. Runtime using the inverter and standard ac wall outlet / power brick is 35 hours.

Pic 2 I removed the power brick entirely, and I have usbc cable in the power station, and the other end of the cable has the correct dc tip that fits my return pump controller. So it’s just a wire with no brick. At the same 40% power, and removing the inefficient brick, the watt draw dropped by 6 watts, and runtime jumps to 57 hours

Unused parts

Another Question , and if you did not see my post A sincere thank you for the effort. Without reading how does the power supply charge up? I assume through electrical connection. Therefore if you are using it constantly which I assume I am understanding this . If there is a power outage how much operational time do you have left?

 

[Lbrdsoxfan]

Diy is gonna be the key to this at semi reasonable pricing... I've ran a few Din mount 10-15a 24vdc power supplies and just used a LOT of male/female dc adapters to power devices. It's all about money and skill set on this one.

Dc buddy from @theatrus IMHO is a reasonable option.

I'd rock a kraken if I was in the hydros ecosystem, as it's fairly stupid proof plug and play.