Proteus Reef: 10g SPS Nano Tank [As seen on YouTube!]

reeferfoxx

5000 Club Member
View Badges
Joined
Sep 8, 2015
Messages
6,514
Reaction score
6,511
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
Like Julian Sprung still uses Kalkwasser. I forget off hand, but there was another reefer from Julian's generation that still uses it today. So that seems like a good place to start and then make my own observations
Keep in mind those guys are keeping large mixed tanks packed with soft, lps and some sps. Larger tanks dont see huge parameter swings like nano tanks. The alk increase from kalk will also effect pH.

Personally, I'm not a fan of ULNS, zeovite, triton, aquaforest or any other ulns system. Those were designed for optimal coral coloration. I also don't run GAC, GFO or reactors. However, we are past the point of how to keep things alive. Really, modern reefing is how to get best(not always fastest) growth with best coloration. Reef2reef is a great place to get advice from the pros but the deviation between nano tanks and large tanks is big. As slippin suggested, 2 part dosing is best for smaller tanks.

I've been feeding my corals fairly heavy, trying to bring up nitrates from 0 for zooxanthellae to keep pace with the high dKH, but the skimmer only runs at night and is still keeping my water crystal clear.
This is a good train of thought. Since SPS is the goal here, maybe looking through the SPS threads will help more. In my experience, keeping alk at the lower end allows zooxs to grow with the skeleton. Otherwise you'll see lack of color, white tips, and possible STN or slow tissue necrosis.
 

reeferfoxx

5000 Club Member
View Badges
Joined
Sep 8, 2015
Messages
6,514
Reaction score
6,511
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
Edit: Is this site run by a pastor? I can't believe the strict censorship on a forum presumably populated by adults. Dubya Tea *** gets changed to, "what the heck."
Haha! It's a family friendly forum. There are a lot of kids here that are beginning the hobby. Their parents appreciate the censorship.
 
Last edited by a moderator:

revhtree

Owner Administrator
View Badges
Joined
May 8, 2006
Messages
47,802
Reaction score
87,471
Rating - 100%
1   0   0
Welcome to Reef2Reef! Glad to have you here!
 

evolved

[email protected]
View Badges
Joined
Dec 16, 2010
Messages
10,633
Reaction score
11,975
Location
Phoenix, AZ
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
OP
OP
discchord

discchord

Community Member
View Badges
Joined
Jul 30, 2017
Messages
69
Reaction score
19
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
Keep in mind those guys are keeping large mixed tanks packed with soft, lps and some sps. Larger tanks dont see huge parameter swings like nano tanks. The alk increase from kalk will also effect pH.

That is another extremely important thing for me to keep in mind! Thank you! I'm watching my pH every day, and so far I'm liking what I see, but you raise a very good point and something I will take more seriously.


Personally, I'm not a fan of ULNS, zeovite, triton, aquaforest or any other ulns system. Those were designed for optimal coral coloration. I also don't run GAC, GFO or reactors. However, we are past the point of how to keep things alive. Really, modern reefing is how to get best(not always fastest) growth with best coloration. Reef2reef is a great place to get advice from the pros but the deviation between nano tanks and large tanks is big. As slippin suggested, 2 part dosing is best for smaller tanks.

I was planning on running ULNS (I love the idea of trying to do Triton on a 10g) but after seeing Chasing Coral the plan changed dramatically. I don't want my corals on the brink of death to satisfy some personal aesthetic. I've seen a lot of people report success with SPS maintaining high dKH(9-11) and moderate nutrients (Nitrates 5-20, Phosphate 0.03ish) so that's my starting point.

Addendum: The theory behind that high dKH and moderate nutrients addresses the problems with white tips (in acro specifically, SPS in general). I expect you're already familiar with it, but for the befit of anyone else that comes by: The theory is that, with high dKH, stony corals will grow more rapidly. Without a measurable amount of nutrients for the zooxanthellae to eat they can't keep up their own growth. You end up with exposed white tips where the coral grows and no zooxanthellae to populate it.
 

reeferfoxx

5000 Club Member
View Badges
Joined
Sep 8, 2015
Messages
6,514
Reaction score
6,511
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
Addendum: The theory behind that high dKH and moderate nutrients addresses the problems with white tips (in acro specifically, SPS in general). I expect you're already familiar with it, but for the befit of anyone else that comes by: The theory is that, with high dKH, stony corals will grow more rapidly. Without a measurable amount of nutrients for the zooxanthellae to eat they can't keep up their own growth. You end up with exposed white tips where the coral grows and no zooxanthellae to populate it.
I agree with this. IMO, 9-11 is high and maybe subject to a learning curve. That said, I think it's not a bad start and the learning process should be observed. Your birdsnest coral will be the tell tale. If you can grow that out between now and november without issues, you could be ready for a step up in acro decisions. I think a great beginner acro is the Tri-Color Valida. Mine has been a role model and has taken a beating over the last 6 months.
 

Mr.Rocc

Valuable Member
View Badges
Joined
Nov 23, 2014
Messages
1,308
Reaction score
830
Location
Pennsylvania
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
I keep my tank at 8.6-9.0 dkh. My birds nest was the coral that told me what I had to change in the tank. Then I moved into more and more acros
 

reeferfoxx

5000 Club Member
View Badges
Joined
Sep 8, 2015
Messages
6,514
Reaction score
6,511
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
OP
OP
discchord

discchord

Community Member
View Badges
Joined
Jul 30, 2017
Messages
69
Reaction score
19
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
I'm back! In my latest video I review the Aqamai KPS powerhead as well as the Seneye Reef Monitor:
 
OP
OP
discchord

discchord

Community Member
View Badges
Joined
Jul 30, 2017
Messages
69
Reaction score
19
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
Forth Month
Things are doing great in the tank this month! No coral deaths! I didn't even lose a single Zoa polyp! My parameters are all stabilizing nicely. In this month's video I complete my review for the Seneye Reef Monitor, and talk about how I supplement with Kalkwasser and Vodka.
 

reeferfoxx

5000 Club Member
View Badges
Joined
Sep 8, 2015
Messages
6,514
Reaction score
6,511
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
Forth Month
Things are doing great in the tank this month! No coral deaths! I didn't even lose a single Zoa polyp! My parameters are all stabilizing nicely. In this month's video I complete my review for the Seneye Reef Monitor, and talk about how I supplement with Kalkwasser and Vodka.

Enjoyed the video! Everything looks real good. I will agree with you that the lighting might be a bit low. Using the seneye for par measurements will help a lot. That is actually one measurement of seneye that is comparable to the apogee meters. Anyway, the zoa growth and the darkening of the montis indicates low lighting. A lot of our corals can adapt but won't exactly flourish. You are ding it right by slowly ramping up. However, as a baseline your par should show 75-100 at the sandbed. Maybe take a measurement of the sand bed and see if you are even peaking at 75 par?
 
OP
OP
discchord

discchord

Community Member
View Badges
Joined
Jul 30, 2017
Messages
69
Reaction score
19
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
However, as a baseline your par should show 75-100 at the sandbed. Maybe take a measurement of the sand bed and see if you are even peaking at 75 par?

Yeah, I think I screwed up. I started the slow ramp up from 50 at the sandbed. It is nearing 100 now! I'm contemplating possibly adding a second A80. I love the light, but it tops out at something like 150par.
 

reeferfoxx

5000 Club Member
View Badges
Joined
Sep 8, 2015
Messages
6,514
Reaction score
6,511
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
Yeah, I think I screwed up. I started the slow ramp up from 50 at the sandbed. It is nearing 100 now! I'm contemplating possibly adding a second A80. I love the light, but it tops out at something like 150par.
It shouldn't be necessary for a second light if you can hit 150 at the sandbed. 100 is ideal. When did you reach that peak or how long has it been?
 
OP
OP
discchord

discchord

Community Member
View Badges
Joined
Jul 30, 2017
Messages
69
Reaction score
19
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
I've been working up from 30% Intensity (about 30-50 PAR) to a preset 71% over the course of the last couple months. Adding about 1% each day. It was only 1% every other day in the first month and a half.

Many warnings to newbies were that you were more likely to kill corals with too much light, rather than not enough. I really don't want to be responsible for killing any animals, so I erred (probably way too much) on the side of caution.
 

reeferfoxx

5000 Club Member
View Badges
Joined
Sep 8, 2015
Messages
6,514
Reaction score
6,511
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
I've been working up from 30% Intensity (about 30-50 PAR) to a preset 71% over the course of the last couple months. Adding about 1% each day. It was only 1% every other day in the first month and a half.

Many warnings to newbies were that you were more likely to kill corals with too much light, rather than not enough. I really don't want to be responsible for killing any animals, so I erred (probably way too much) on the side of caution.
Yep, that is fine. I keep my sand bed between 80-120. Keep in mind that your coral took light to grow so, going from adequate light to less than acceptable creates a shift in coloration and growth. Meaning, if the coral were ordered then going from 1 day of darkness to full amount of par could cause some stress. If the coral came from the LFS, it's ok to keep light the same but both options require we place coral in low light setting and slowly moving up. Best thing to do is get to the 100-110 or even slightly higher can keep it there. Don't keep adjusting lights to new comers.

Also, keep in mind that more light demanding corals may not need brighter lights rather a higher placement in the tank. So, always consider that a shift in rock work might help things. All that i'm suggesting should keep you from having to supplement more lights for optimal growth. At the end of the day though, it's your decision :)
 

reeferfoxx

5000 Club Member
View Badges
Joined
Sep 8, 2015
Messages
6,514
Reaction score
6,511
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
One other thing I forgot to mention, actually two. You can lower the kessil to make it brighter and also, make sure to test your par with the lid on. Sometimes those lids can create a reduction in par. I'm not positive on the IM lid, but the BRS clear mesh gives a 5% reduction.
 
OP
OP
discchord

discchord

Community Member
View Badges
Joined
Jul 30, 2017
Messages
69
Reaction score
19
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
November Update
It's happening! It's all finally coming together for me. I've got the water chemistry stabilized to the point that I think I can start adding Acros to the tank!

 
OP
OP
discchord

discchord

Community Member
View Badges
Joined
Jul 30, 2017
Messages
69
Reaction score
19
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
Congrats on the clowns! They are super cute! The tank is looking real good. :)

Thanks! Yes the Clowns are amazingly adorable. Now I just need them to stay healthy! I wake up every morning and rush to check on them... so far so good.
 

Reefing threads: Do you wear gear from reef brands?

  • I wear reef gear everywhere.

    Votes: 17 13.8%
  • I wear reef gear primarily at fish events and my LFS.

    Votes: 7 5.7%
  • I wear reef gear primarily for water changes and tank maintenance.

    Votes: 1 0.8%
  • I wear reef gear primarily to relax where I live.

    Votes: 19 15.4%
  • I don’t wear gear from reef brands.

    Votes: 70 56.9%
  • Other.

    Votes: 9 7.3%
Back
Top