Quanta Helix Lights - best controller setup

[mp2022]

I recently purchased a 4-bar Quanta Helix LED setup for my new 5 foot tank. Anyone have these lights and use a controller for timed ramp up and down phase? What controller do you use?

I don't use a controller on my current tank, but I figure with this larger build it might be good to invest in one anyways.

Thanks!

 

[oreo54]

I recently purchased a 4-bar Quanta Helix LED setup for my new 5 foot tank. Anyone have these lights and use a controller for timed ramp up and down phase? What controller do you use?

I don't use a controller on my current tank, but I figure with this larger build it might be good to invest in one anyways.

Thanks!

There are a few 0-10 v analog controllers out there.
One of the least expensive directly useable controllers is the ghl led controller.

https://www.aquariumcomputer.com/usa/product/profilux-light-wifi/
Why I added " directly useable" is there are 5v Pwm based controllers and add in circuit boards to convert the 5v pwm to 0-10v.
So not quite plug and play.

There are a bunch of expensive horticulture types as well as the full Apex ect.

 

[mp2022]

I recently purchased a 4-bar Quanta Helix LED setup for my new 5 foot tank. Anyone have these lights and use a controller for timed ramp up and down phase? What controller do you use?

I don't use a controller on my current tank, but I figure with this larger build it might be good to invest in one anyways.

Thanks!

There are a few 0-10 v analog controllers out there.
One of the least expensive directly useable controllers is the ghl led controller.

https://www.aquariumcomputer.com/usa/product/profilux-light-wifi/
Why I added " directly useable" is there are 5v Pwm based controllers and add in circuit boards to convert the 5v pwm to 0-10v.
So not quite plug and play.

There are a bunch of expensive horticulture types as well as the full Apex ect.

Thank you - yeah I have been eyeing this one mostly because there is a great tutorial on YouTube on setting this up with the quanta lights. What I don’t quite get is does the larger controller system from ghl (profilux 4) have the same functionality built in? I am guessing yes…

 

[oreo54]

Thank you - yeah I have been eyeing this one mostly because there is a great tutorial on YouTube on setting this up with the quanta lights. What I don’t quite get is does the larger controller system from ghl (profilux 4) have the same functionality built in? I am guessing yes…

If it doesn't it should.. but it does..
https://www.aquariumcomputer.com/products/profilux-aquarium-controller/

Now I'm putting another here... mostly for me to find.
It's cheaper if one wants to run like 1 or 2 bars exactly the same.
Technically it's for 1 light and at $35 doing like 4 individual bars would be cost inefficient compared to the GHL.
IF i understand the specs it is a current source with 35mA max output. Depending on the 10v dim circuitry on the driver it would be fairly limited to how many bars it could run before just not being able to handle it.
https://us.shelly.com/products/shel...ebee8c-48d9-42f2-89cf-8358812d6a2a-1778110292
Add their app...

Oh yea don't forget to add a normal timer since generally one should shut the drivers off rather than just dimming them.. Dim to like 10% then use timer to cut the AC line..

Sorry the next bit just solidifies my rational ( KISS) for discarding of 0-10 for 5v pwm drivers in light builds.

Sinking or sourcing who has the 10v?

The Shelly dimmer above states it is sourcing
https://kb.shelly.cloud/knowledge-base/shelly-dimmer-0-1-10v-pm-gen3
This Shelly states it is sinking.
https://shellystore.co.uk/product/shelly-plus-0-10v-dimmer/
NOW, in general, but probably not in this case, you would need to match driver to controller.
There appears "reasons" )(using reason lightly) for the different types.

IF I understand this right since the Helix uses 3 way dimmable topology either controller type will work.

Dimming by pot is basically sinking current from the driver circuit (source).

Feeding a 0-10v dc signal is like (sink)ing current from the controllers (source) 10v supply..

AS I understand it atm...Could be all a misunderstanding..

Thread re: Hydros and Helix
https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/hydros-0-10v-dimming-for-quanta-helix-lights.1118445/page-3

 

[Hooz]

Apex will do it.

As mentioned, GHL will do it.

Hydros will also do it, but you have to have a controller with 0-10v OUTPUTS which, at the moment, is only the Control X4 or the WaveEngine v2.

 

[mp2022]

If it doesn't it should.. but it does..
https://www.aquariumcomputer.com/products/profilux-aquarium-controller/

Now I'm putting another here... mostly for me to find.
It's cheaper if one wants to run like 1 or 2 bars exactly the same.
Technically it's for 1 light and at $35 doing like 4 individual bars would be cost inefficient compared to the GHL.
IF i understand the specs it is a current source with 35mA max output. Depending on the 10v dim circuitry on the driver it would be fairly limited to how many bars it could run before just not being able to handle it.
https://us.shelly.com/products/shel...ebee8c-48d9-42f2-89cf-8358812d6a2a-1778110292
Add their app...

Oh yea don't forget to add a normal timer since generally one should shut the drivers off rather than just dimming them.. Dim to like 10% then use timer to cut the AC line..

Sorry the next bit just solidifies my rational ( KISS) for discarding of 0-10 for 5v pwm drivers in light builds.

Sinking or sourcing who has the 10v?

The Shelly dimmer above states it is sourcing
https://kb.shelly.cloud/knowledge-base/shelly-dimmer-0-1-10v-pm-gen3
This Shelly states it is sinking.
https://shellystore.co.uk/product/shelly-plus-0-10v-dimmer/
NOW, in general, but probably not in this case, you would need to match driver to controller.
There appears "reasons" )(using reason lightly) for the different types.

IF I understand this right since the Helix uses 3 way dimmable topology either controller type will work.

Dimming by pot is basically sinking current from the driver circuit (source).

Feeding a 0-10v dc signal is like (sink)ing current from the controllers (source) 10v supply..

AS I understand it atm...Could be all a misunderstanding..

Thread re: Hydros and Helix
https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/hydros-0-10v-dimming-for-quanta-helix-lights.1118445/page-3

Thanks - way over my small brain though lol. I have 2 meso blue lights and 2 reef crest daylight lights that I want to have 2 separate schedules for. I was thinking of getting the profilux light wifi (no need for other automation/controller features at this juncture so hard to stomach the $900 price tag for a complete controller setup) and a ghl breakout box. I think the breakout box only allows for 2 separate hookups. This may seem like a stupid question, but can I merge the positive and negative wires of the same lights (the 2 meso blues for example) using something like this and then wire the new positive and negative wires to the breakout box:
Amazon product ASIN B00N0XSSKI
Thanks in advance.

 

[Hooz]

If it doesn't it should.. but it does..
https://www.aquariumcomputer.com/products/profilux-aquarium-controller/

Now I'm putting another here... mostly for me to find.
It's cheaper if one wants to run like 1 or 2 bars exactly the same.
Technically it's for 1 light and at $35 doing like 4 individual bars would be cost inefficient compared to the GHL.
IF i understand the specs it is a current source with 35mA max output. Depending on the 10v dim circuitry on the driver it would be fairly limited to how many bars it could run before just not being able to handle it.
https://us.shelly.com/products/shel...ebee8c-48d9-42f2-89cf-8358812d6a2a-1778110292
Add their app...

Oh yea don't forget to add a normal timer since generally one should shut the drivers off rather than just dimming them.. Dim to like 10% then use timer to cut the AC line..

Sorry the next bit just solidifies my rational ( KISS) for discarding of 0-10 for 5v pwm drivers in light builds.

Sinking or sourcing who has the 10v?

The Shelly dimmer above states it is sourcing
https://kb.shelly.cloud/knowledge-base/shelly-dimmer-0-1-10v-pm-gen3
This Shelly states it is sinking.
https://shellystore.co.uk/product/shelly-plus-0-10v-dimmer/
NOW, in general, but probably not in this case, you would need to match driver to controller.
There appears "reasons" )(using reason lightly) for the different types.

IF I understand this right since the Helix uses 3 way dimmable topology either controller type will work.

Dimming by pot is basically sinking current from the driver circuit (source).

Feeding a 0-10v dc signal is like (sink)ing current from the controllers (source) 10v supply..

AS I understand it atm...Could be all a misunderstanding..

Thread re: Hydros and Helix
https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/hydros-0-10v-dimming-for-quanta-helix-lights.1118445/page-3

Thanks - way over my small brain though lol. I have 2 meso blue lights and 2 reef crest daylight lights that I want to have 2 separate schedules for. I was thinking of getting the profilux light wifi (no need for other automation/controller features at this juncture so hard to stomach the $900 price tag for a complete controller setup) and a ghl breakout box. I think the breakout box only allows for 2 separate hookups. This may seem like a stupid question, but can I merge the positive and negative wires of the same lights (the 2 meso blues for example) using something like this and then wire the new positive and negative wires to the breakout box:
Amazon product ASIN B00N0XSSKI
Thanks in advance.

Not a dumb question at all, and yes, that should work just fine.

 

[oreo54]

I think the breakout box only allows for 2 separate hookups. T
Thanks in advance.

Believe it is 4...

Devices that use 1-10 V interfaces are connected to the two yellow RJ12 Western sockets L1 /
L2 (Left socket) or L3 / L4 (Right socket).
1-10V interface devices include:
• Dimmable tubular GHL Lightbars ALB
• Dimmable Effect-LED-Light Mitras-Simu-Stick
• Dimmable sockets
• Controllable heating or cooling (e.g. Propeller Breeze)
• Controllable stream pumps
Each of these ports includes two independent 1-10V interfaces and associated relay control
outputs. If necessary, each port can be extended with the splitter cable -YL2, available in
different lengths.

 

[BriDroid]

I just installed 2 35” bars over my tank. I’m already using a 0-10V for my Kessil’s brightness and color out of my X4. I was easily able to use another 1 of the 2 remaining channels to control the Helix bars. This way I’m able to control the bars separate from the Kessil pendants. It was really pretty simple once you get your head around what you’re doing.

 

[mp2022]

I just installed 2 35” bars over my tank. I’m already using a 0-10V for my Kessil’s brightness and color out of my X4. I was easily able to use another 1 of the 2 remaining channels to control the Helix bars. This way I’m able to control the bars separate from the Kessil pendants. It was really pretty simple once you get your head around what you’re doing.

How did you connect the each helix up to the hydros 0-10V port? Thanks.

 

[BriDroid]

How did you connect the each helix up to the hydros 0-10V port? Thanks.

I used this setup for my Kessils:
Kessil Control Cable - Type 1 (PN: KSACB01)
- Hydros WaveEngine APX Link Cable
- RJ45 non-active 1-to-1 coupler

The WaveEngine APX cable has 2 RJ45 connectors, one is used for the brightness and color on the Kessils and the other wasn’t used. Channel 1 is the color and channel 2 is the brightness. Using that info, then channel 4 of the other connector is brightness. I bought 2 of these and put them on the included dimming cable included with the Helix.

And one of these splitter cables.

I connected the white wire to the ground (tip) and the black wire to the “L” on the connector. It was backwards to me, in my mind the black should have been ground??? If connected backwards, it would only turn them on and off, not dim them.

All connected, and with the settings above, they dim great. I did have to put the power supplies for the Helix on two XP8 plugs, since even at 0V they are still on dimly when the power supply is on.

 

[oreo54]

Why not just use this cable and associated plug in the helix dim cable?

https://aquacave.com/hydros-waveengine-0-10v-quad-cable.html

 

[dangles]

I have the same lights you do (only 1 MB and 3 RCDL). I intended to run them with my Apex for ramping but just haven’t gotten around to hooking them up to it. They’re currently just run on timers via the Kasa WiFi power strips they’re plugged into. Simple on/off. I stagger the MB and one of the RCDLs so I get a period of more blue in the evening. At this point I’ll probably just leave it like it is. No ramping. It’s simple and works just fine if the “sudden on/off” doesn’t bother you too much. It’s worth considering saving the money and using it for more coral or some other safety/redundancy feature IMO

 

[mp2022]

I used this setup for my Kessils:
Kessil Control Cable - Type 1 (PN: KSACB01)
- Hydros WaveEngine APX Link Cable
- RJ45 non-active 1-to-1 coupler

The WaveEngine APX cable has 2 RJ45 connectors, one is used for the brightness and color on the Kessils and the other wasn’t used. Channel 1 is the color and channel 2 is the brightness. Using that info, then channel 4 of the other connector is brightness. I bought 2 of these and put them on the included dimming cable included with the Helix.

And one of these splitter cables.

I connected the white wire to the ground (tip) and the black wire to the “L” on the connector. It was backwards to me, in my mind the black should have been ground??? If connected backwards, it would only turn them on and off, not dim them.

All connected, and with the settings above, they dim great. I did have to put the power supplies for the Helix on two XP8 plugs, since even at 0V they are still on dimly when the power supply is on.

This is great thanks.

 

[mp2022]

Why not just use this cable and associated plug in the helix dim cable?

https://aquacave.com/hydros-waveengine-0-10v-quad-cable.html

Thanks - I actually asked the manufacturer about this and he said I would have to cut the male end off and connect the individual wires up and solder or some comparable method.

 

[mp2022]

I have the same lights you do (only 1 MB and 3 RCDL). I intended to run them with my Apex for ramping but just haven’t gotten around to hooking them up to it. They’re currently just run on timers via the Kasa WiFi power strips they’re plugged into. Simple on/off. I stagger the MB and one of the RCDLs so I get a period of more blue in the evening. At this point I’ll probably just leave it like it is. No ramping. It’s simple and works just fine if the “sudden on/off” doesn’t bother you too much. It’s worth considering saving the money and using it for more coral or some other safety/redundancy feature IMO

I have thought about just doing this as well. I have read about Coral shock with lights suddenly going on and off but don't know if this is a real issue.

I guess am also trying to justify buying a controller for the new tank lol as it is much larger than my previous tank and am not home very much so would be helpful to have some sort of monitoring.

 

[dangles]

I have thought about just doing this as well. I have read about Coral shock with lights suddenly going on and off but don't know if this is a real issue.

I guess am also trying to justify buying a controller for the new tank lol as it is much larger than my previous tank and am not home very much so would be helpful to have some sort of monitoring.

Totally get that. I have the same issue (being gone a lot) and I love having a controller.

I’ve never heard about corals beings shocked like that. I’ll have to see if I can find out about that.

 

[BriDroid]

Thanks - I actually asked the manufacturer about this and he said I would have to cut the male end off and connect the individual wires up and solder or some comparable method.

It has something to do with a single ground, I don’t really understand. All I know is that it works great with the above method. Here is the link to the articles on the Hydros forums.
Kessil 0-10V
Helix 0-10V wiring

This method keeps it very close to plug and play. Just remember that the brightness control uses outputs 2 and 4 on the 0-10V channel.

 

[BriDroid]

Why not just use this cable and associated plug in the helix dim cable?

https://aquacave.com/hydros-waveengine-0-10v-quad-cable.html

That “might” work for the Helix bars, but I’m also running Kessil pendants, and it won’t work for them. It has something to do with the way they’re grounded?

 

[BriDroid]

Totally get that. I have the same issue (being gone a lot) and I love having a controller.

I’ve never heard about corals beings shocked like that. I’ll have to see if I can find out about that.

In the old days we went from dark to fully bright and everything was fine. I think the dimming is more for us and to not shock the fish.

I’m the same way, I’m gone from home a lot for work, and no one else in my home cares about my tank. That’s why I went with a controller and now everything is automated. It’s addictive for sure!