reef-pi :: An opensource reef tank controller based on Raspberry Pi.

[b4tn]

If you are looking for parts for your reef pi build that are a bit cheaper than adafruit or amazon this place has good prices and free overnight shipping. The optical water sensor is about 1/2 the rice of amazon.
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/sen0205/dfrobot

Perfect timing! I needed to place an order today and this just saved me a few $$ and gave me something to do this weekend.

 

[COCOBBALL]

Sorry total newbie here.

I started ny build list using the guide on adafruit
https://learn.adafruit.com/reef-pi-power-controller/parts

It ask for an 18 pin ic socket. When i add to cart it adds a 20 pin and i cant find 18 pin on that page.

https://www.adafruit.com/product/2204

Is it the same thing?

 

[Ranjib]

Sorry total newbie here.

I started ny build list using the guide on adafruit
https://learn.adafruit.com/reef-pi-power-controller/parts

It ask for an 18 pin ic socket. When i add to cart it adds a 20 pin and i cant find 18 pin on that page.

https://www.adafruit.com/product/2204

Is it the same thing?

Hi, thank you for considering a reef-pi build. They are not the same things, but the one linked will work just fine. I had to link that as adafruit didn't had 18 pin IC sockets

 

[Nicolas Sabrun]

Is it possible to use a standard 2 wire float switch for the ATO instead of the photoelectric sensor?

I am thinking about using 2 float if possible. One in the sump to refill evap water and one in tje ago reservoir to protect the pump from runing dry.

If yes, how would you wire it? It would be great if I can use my spare float switches instead of buying new parts.

I am also wprried that my refugium ligjt would mess up the photoelectric sensor since my ato reservoir is close by under the cabinet.

Thank you.

 

[Ranjib]

Nice thanks


How are you guys mounting your ato sensors in the sump?

I have nano tanks , no sump . I hang them with the same clip that I use firnsoaing tube , against a wall in backchamber. For pico tanks I don’t use any clips, they are stuck between heater and aqua hob filter. There’s a drip loop between the sensor and housing

 

[Ranjib]

Is it possible to use a standard 2 wire float switch for the ATO instead of the photoelectric sensor?

I am thinking about using 2 float if possible. One in the sump to refill evap water and one in tje ago reservoir to protect the pump from runing dry.

If yes, how would you wire it? It would be great if I can use my spare float switches instead of buying new parts.

I am also wprried that my refugium ligjt would mess up the photoelectric sensor since my ato reservoir is close by under the cabinet.

Thank you.

Yes, I have not used it, but I did test this : https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/r...-on-raspberry-pi.289256/page-356#post-5312272

 

[Erica-Renee]

Is it possible to use a standard 2 wire float switch for the ATO instead of the photoelectric sensor?

I am thinking about using 2 float if possible. One in the sump to refill evap water and one in tje ago reservoir to protect the pump from runing dry.

If yes, how would you wire it? It would be great if I can use my spare float switches instead of buying new parts.

I am also wprried that my refugium ligjt would mess up the photoelectric sensor since my ato reservoir is close by under the cabinet.

Thank you.

Yes you can and I actually have tested this. You would need to run them in series Connect the output of the one in the sump to the input of the one in the ato tank. then its output to the ground to complete the loop.

To set them up you will need to pull the key off and turn the float upside down on the one in the ato container i think.. It will take some testing to find for sure the best arrangement. But it does work...

Hope this helps and the diagram @Ranjib is how mine are wired ...
Image of mine in the testing sump..

 

[Diamond1]

Sorry total newbie here.

I started ny build list using the guide on adafruit
https://learn.adafruit.com/reef-pi-power-controller/parts

It ask for an 18 pin ic socket. When i add to cart it adds a 20 pin and i cant find 18 pin on that page.

https://www.adafruit.com/product/2204

Is it the same thing?

I used one of the 20 pin IC sockets and aligned it with the extra pins on a rail that wasn't being used on the right side of the socket.

 

[Nicolas Sabrun]

Yes, I have not used it, but I did test this : https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/r...-on-raspberry-pi.289256/page-356#post-5312272

Oh wow. I guess I ship ober tjat post. Thank you for sharing the link.

Pardon my igmorance but why were these values of resistor selected? Are resistor even needed?

Sorry for the newbie question. Just trying to figure how it works.

 

[Nicolas Sabrun]

Yes you can and I actually have tested this. You would need to run them in series Connect the output of the one in the sump to the input of the one in the ato tank. then its output to the ground to complete the loop.

To set them up you will need to pull the key off and turn the float upside down on the one in the ato container i think.. It will take some testing to find for sure the best arrangement. But it does work...

Hope this helps and the diagram @Ranjib is how mine are wired ...
Image of mine in the testing sump..

That s a really nice setup. Wiring the float in series makes sense.

Thinking about it, would it be possible to setup something like this isong 3 float switches:

Float 1 and float 2 are in series.

Float 1 is triggers a timer for x amount of time when water is low in the sump.

Float 2 turns or keep ato pump off if not enough water in ago reservoir. It would also be great if it could sent an alarm or make a led blink.

Float 3 is more of a safety switch. It would shut ato pump off if the water reach a high level. If the ato pump fail to stop after timer runs out, it could avoid a possible overflow.

Float 1 and 2 are fine for me to setup now as per previous post except for the timer part.

I got no clue regarding float 3.

I hope this make sense and sorry for the long post.

Thank you

 

[Erica-Renee]

That s a really nice setup. Wiring the float in series makes sense.

Thinking about it, would it be possible to setup something like this isong 3 float switches:

Float 1 and float 2 are in series.

Float 1 is triggers a timer for x amount of time when water is low in the sump.

Float 2 turns or keep ato pump off if not enough water in ago reservoir. It would also be great if it could sent an alarm or make a led blink.

Float 3 is more of a safety switch. It would shut ato pump off if the water reach a high level. If the ato pump fail to stop after timer runs out, it could avoid a possible overflow.

Float 1 and 2 are fine for me to setup now as per previous post except for the timer part.

I got no clue regarding float 3.

I hope this make sense and sorry for the long post.

Thank you

You can set them on a timer or macro.. I have not used the macro feature or tested it.Others would probably be much better to explain it then i..
The Floats i have in series are for return pump. Low water level off Hi water level off.
of course you can set them low and low or high and high. also one of those will go into my Skimmer Collection container to shut off the skimmer on over flow of the container. then i will have two for the ATO Setup is what my plans are...

 

[b4tn]

Getting closer to completion! My TB6612 motor driver board, ULN2803, and HD15 D-SUB connectors arrived today. Unfortunately the relays and box I am using for housing them and the outlets will not be here till Monday. I should be able to get the doser control integrated and all the wiring inside the reef-pi box complete this weekend. I plan on using the 16 pin HD15 DSUB connection to a remote box for relays and power control and will use an 8 pin DB9 connector for the remote doser box. I have enough room in the reef-pi box to expand the PWM outputs but for now I am just going to run two dosing pumps off the built in PWM.

Someone on here, I forget who, used the pumps from a Jebao doser. Does anyone happen to remember who or know if the pumps are 12 volt or not? I am thinking about gutting the box in my Jebao doser and wiring it up to the reef-pi.

 

[Michael Lane]

Getting closer to completion! My TB6612 motor driver board, ULN2803, and HD15 D-SUB connectors arrived today. Unfortunately the relays and box I am using for housing them and the outlets will not be here till Monday. I should be able to get the doser control integrated and all the wiring inside the reef-pi box complete this weekend. I plan on using the 16 pin HD15 DSUB connection to a remote box for relays and power control and will use an 8 pin DB9 connector for the remote doser box. I have enough room in the reef-pi box to expand the PWM outputs but for now I am just going to run two dosing pumps off the built in PWM.

Someone on here, I forget who, used the pumps from a Jebao doser. Does anyone happen to remember who or know if the pumps are 12 volt or not? I am thinking about gutting the box in my Jebao doser and wiring it up to the reef-pi.

I just finished modding a Jebao slave doser. The motors are designed for 12v, but can work at slightly lower voltages. I have mine running at 9v just because I don't have a 12v wall wart on hand. The lower voltage limits the max speed. I don't think 5v would be enough to power them.

 

[b4tn]

I just finished modding a Jebao slave doser. The motors are designed for 12v, but can work at slightly lower voltages. I have mine running at 9v just because I don't have a 12v wall wart on hand. The lower voltage limits the max speed. I don't think 5v would be enough to power them.

Perfect! I am using 12 volts. I plan on using some high end parasitic pumps in the future but I can get it all working and tested with the Jebao. Thanks

 

[Erica-Renee]

Getting closer to completion! My TB6612 motor driver board, ULN2803, and HD15 D-SUB connectors arrived today. Unfortunately the relays and box I am using for housing them and the outlets will not be here till Monday. I should be able to get the doser control integrated and all the wiring inside the reef-pi box complete this weekend. I plan on using the 16 pin HD15 DSUB connection to a remote box for relays and power control and will use an 8 pin DB9 connector for the remote doser box. I have enough room in the reef-pi box to expand the PWM outputs but for now I am just going to run two dosing pumps off the built in PWM.

Someone on here, I forget who, used the pumps from a Jebao doser. Does anyone happen to remember who or know if the pumps are 12 volt or not? I am thinking about gutting the box in my Jebao doser and wiring it up to the reef-pi.

That would be me and yes they are 12v.. The way I did mine is used db9 from reef-pi main controller box out to the stripped of controller board from doser pump housing. Inside the box i have a small circuit board i made to hold a uln2803 . Connecting the Ground to the RED Wire back to the controller and 8 uln pins to the Servo motor controller . this will give me 8 dosing pumps. The 12v motors are ran off a 12v power supply that plugs into the wall. This to me is my best solution as the pumps will not be close to the main controller..

Very interested in seeing your board thou..

erica

 

[b4tn]

That would be me and yes they are 12v.. The way I did mine is used db9 from reef-pi main controller box out to the stripped of controller board from doser pump housing. Inside the box i have a small circuit board i made to hold a uln2803 . Connecting the Ground to the RED Wire back to the controller and 8 uln pins to the Servo motor controller . this will give me 8 dosing pumps. The 12v motors are ran off a 12v power supply that plugs into the wall. This to me is my best solution as the pumps will not be close to the main controller..

Very interested in seeing your board thou..

erica

Perfect. Do you have the ground from the motor power supply shared with the ground of the Pi power supply or are they completely separate?

 

[Erica-Renee]

Perfect. Do you have the ground from the motor power supply shared with the ground of the Pi power supply or are they completely separate?

Yes other wise it will not work. All of my modules share common ground and the Power is separated/ switched where ever possible . I just think in my mind its safer .

 

[sfgabe]

I just wanted to say thank you to @Ranjib and all of the other contributors. I have my reef-pi up and running, and coordinating well with my home automation (Home Assistant running on another Pi) to get my 15 gallon nano to follow a Bali, Indonesia reef biotope. I'm working on adding an auto feeder, but for now it's doing everything I need with ATO and Doser peristaltic pumps, a float switch, a Kessil light, wavemaker and temp control. I went with Tuya power strips instead of setting up relays so it stayed compact enough for me to 3D print the housing. I think it's all made a very tidy controller even if it looks like a mess on the inside. :)

 

[Ranjib]

I just wanted to say thank you to @Ranjib and all of the other contributors. I have my reef-pi up and running, and coordinating well with my home automation (Home Assistant running on another Pi) to get my 15 gallon nano to follow a Bali, Indonesia reef biotope. I'm working on adding an auto feeder, but for now it's doing everything I need with ATO and Doser peristaltic pumps, a float switch, a Kessil light, wavemaker and temp control. I went with Tuya power strips instead of setting up relays so it stayed compact enough for me to 3D print the housing. I think it's all made a very tidy controller even if it looks like a mess on the inside. :)

Wow, this is gorgeous :-) . I wish you had a build thread. I am just amazed at all these housing you folks are making, it looks so cool. Thank you for sharing and giving reef-pi a shot

 

[COCOBBALL]

Anyone know if these two parts the same thing? The one from mouser is cheaper and available for me.

Im gather parts to build the powerstrip using Ranjibs guide.

UlN2803 darlington trasistor
https://www.adafruit.com/product/970

And

ULN2803A Darlington Transistors Eight NPN Array

https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/STMicroelectronics/ULN2803A?qs=sGAEpiMZZMvAvBNgSS9LqpP7ived4CP2