reef-pi :: An opensource reef tank controller based on Raspberry Pi.

[Ranjib]

I've been sending commands and getting data to/from reef-pi via the API (from/to Home Assistant) for about a month now and I have to say it works flawlessly @Ranjib. Fantastic job on that!

One question though - is there a way to disable the cookie expiration? It seems like I'm getting about two weeks before I have to update the auth code by logging in and capturing a new one manually. I'm not super worried about security since it's only LAN anyway.

Can you file a github issue, this is something I have to check offline, with the code, and unless its tracked there.. i might just forget/lost it here .
Is it possible to recreate the session every week, or so ,, as part of your code ?

 

[Ranjib]

I think I have that amazon one. It looks like the capacitor is 1000uf so theoretically that would cover it, but it still flickers. They are on separate power circuits too, so the only place they could be bumping into each other is through the PCA9685.

I have not tinkered with this yet, but I think we need multiple capacitors, and in multiple places, right before the 10V is fed in to the npn transistors, the 5v input to pca9685 etc

 

[Ranjib]

@sfgabe Reading through the specs of the PCA9685 board there is a spot on the board for a capacitor if you are running motors to help with power dips. The documentation gives a general formula for servos (number of servos * 100uf). I bought a PCA9685 on amazon that already has a capacitor on the board but I would have to look at the value. I wonder if its as simple as adding a cap to fix the flickering?

I think that cap is useful only when you are powering the motors directly from pca9685 (using the onboard +ve pins for each pwm channel)

 

[Ryan115]

On its way...thanks for the heads up.
Now I can stop bringing my Weller Station home from work every time I need it.

Well maybe not on its way. Turns out it was posted from a hacked account. It was not a legitimate listing, it was pulled and I was refunded.
It was too good to be true, but now I really want one.

 

[Diamond1]

Well maybe not on its way. Turns out it was posted from a hacked account. It was not a legitimate listing, it was pulled and I was refunded.
It was too good to be true, but now I really want one.

@Ryan115 I got this one from Ebay. It's only a couple dollars more than the one you ordered and it works really well.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/GAOYUE-936...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649

 

[Ryan115]

@Ryan115 I got this one from Ebay. It's only a couple dollars more than the one you ordered and it works really well.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/GAOYUE-936-110V-SMD-Electric-Soldering-Station-Solder-Iron-Welding-Kit-W-4-Tips/371505966012?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649

Thanks. I'll check that one out. I really liked the hot air, and bench top power supply built into the other.

 

[Fish Fan]

Hi guys! I'm fairly certain that when the build guides first came out the power controller was built using several regular duplex outlets in a typical junction box. Now, I see the build guide has been added over at Adafruit, and has been updated and suggests using a rather expensive (I thought) controllable power strip. What was the reason for this change?

Thanks guys!

-FishFan

 

[ScottBrew]

Hi guys! I'm fairly certain that when the build guides first came out the power controller was built using several regular duplex outlets in a typical junction box. Now, I see the build guide has been added over at Adafruit, and has been updated and suggests using a rather expensive (I thought) controllable power strip. What was the reason for this change?

Thanks guys!

-FishFan

Really isn't that expensive once you consider the parts needed to build your own. Box, relays, outlets, etc. Plus, it's ready to go, no fabrication. I built my own but if doing it again might consider just buying the ADJ.

 

[Ryan115]

Really isn't that expensive once you consider the parts needed to build your own. Box, relays, outlets, etc. Plus, it's ready to go, no fabrication. I built my own but if doing it again might consider just buying the ADJ.

As @ScottBrew said, it gives a ready to go option.
Also wiring the 110V is the most dangerous part of this build, and many people were hesitant to go that route themselves.

I am happy with the old UPS that I rewired for relays, but I would probably go with the ADJ option rather than building one from scratch if I was doing another one.

 

[b4tn]

Hi guys! I'm fairly certain that when the build guides first came out the power controller was built using several regular duplex outlets in a typical junction box. Now, I see the build guide has been added over at Adafruit, and has been updated and suggests using a rather expensive (I thought) controllable power strip. What was the reason for this change?

Thanks guys!

-FishFan

I just finished wiring up my power box tonight. I was originally going to go with the pre made strip which does have the advantage of being easy and safe if you are not comfortable wiring yourself but I wanted the ability to have several relays wired so they where on while power is off and some that are only when triggered. I have also never done any 110 wiring so I wanted the challenge and the chance to learn something new

 

[Fish Fan]

Hi guys! Wow, thanks for all the replies! I figured it was a safety thing. For me, I'd prefer to do it the "old fashioned way" as I already have the materials to do so (duplex outlets, relay boards, box etc. ). Even if I didn't have the parts already, it wouldn't cost anywhere near the $50 for the American DJ power strip, so for that reason alone I think I'll just go the previous method and wire the receptacles myself. I do have some experience with the wiring, I just used an Raspberry Pi with an 8 channel relay and 120AC to control a Halloween light/music show. But I wanted to ask to make sure I wasn't missing something.

Thanks again everyone!

-FF

 

[ScottBrew]

Hi guys! Wow, thanks for all the replies! I figured it was a safety thing. For me, I'd prefer to do it the "old fashioned way" as I already have the materials to do so (duplex outlets, relay boards, box etc. ). Even if I didn't have the parts already, it wouldn't cost anywhere near the $50 for the American DJ power strip, so for that reason alone I think I'll just go the previous method and wire the receptacles myself. I do have some experience with the wiring, I just used an Raspberry Pi with an 8 channel relay and 120AC to control a Halloween light/music show. But I wanted to ask to make sure I wasn't missing something.

Thanks again everyone!

-FF

The biggest advantage to the DIY power module is being able to use solid state relays, the ADJ has mechanical relays. IMO, not a problem with stuff that is on all the time like main pump, skimmer, so on but my powerheads are on and off regularly as well as the heater. 2 downfalls to the solid state is they don't have a normally closed position AND most are only rated for 2 amps. I ran an 8 channel solid state but am going to change it to a 4 channel solid state and a 4 channel mechanical setup. Mainly so the main pump can be hooked up to normally closed as a failsafe.

 

[Fish Fan]

^ I have used the mechanical relays in the past, and for my reef tank build I was going to go with solid state only because I think they will be quieter. Thanks for the help!

-FF

 

[Ryan115]

^ I have used the mechanical relays in the past, and for my reef tank build I was going to go with solid state only because I think they will be quieter. Thanks for the help!

-FF

Depending on the size of your heater, if you have a chiller or if you are running MHs, you may want a few mechanical relays. The typical 2A limit on the SSRs is something to keep in mind.
Also the NC setting on them is really nice.
If for some reason reef-pi goes down, I can still have my return pump running and the heater reverts to running on its own thermostat.

 

[Ryan115]

So back to thermometers again...
The GFCI on my tank just tripped, and after some quick panicked troubleshooting, it was traced back to my DS18B20 thermometer.
I purchased these years ago on ebay, but they were the typical "stainless" coated ones in a cheap 5 pack.
I had coated this one in silicone months ago, and (I though) everything was going well. Turns out there was a small uncoated spot the finally rusted through. I could see it arcing in the water when I plugged the unit into a non-GCFI outlet.

Anyway, I am on the hunt now for a new one, but it looks like the black epoxy canakit ones are sold out everywhere.
Has anyone sourced either the epoxy ones, or better stainless ones anywhere?
Or what other products have people coated theirs with? I have more of the original ones, that could be re-coated.

 

[crusso1993]

@Ryan115 - Some people have used this one with good results. I believe @Ranjib has had one set up on his system for over 2 years now.

https://www.sparkfun.com/products/11050

 

[Ranjib]

@Ryan115 - Some people have used this one with good results. I believe @Ranjib has had one set up on his system for over 2 years now.

https://www.sparkfun.com/products/11050

Yes

 

[Ryan115]

@Ryan115 - Some people have used this one with good results. I believe @Ranjib has had one set up on his system for over 2 years now.

https://www.sparkfun.com/products/11050

Yes

Perfect...thanks.

 

[Ranjib]

Hi guys! I'm fairly certain that when the build guides first came out the power controller was built using several regular duplex outlets in a typical junction box. Now, I see the build guide has been added over at Adafruit, and has been updated and suggests using a rather expensive (I thought) controllable power strip. What was the reason for this change?

Thanks guys!

-FishFan

I’ll publish the original power guide using relays and outlets in reef-pi website soonish. It needs to be updated with recent (2.0) screenshots and other details (we have learned a lot in last one year). This is important as the adj powerstrip is not available/useful across the world and it does not allow you to customize fine details (normally open/close, Ssd or mechanical relays , current ratings, fuse , gfci etc) , this is also our platform to build upon current monitoring.
But the adj powerstrip recommendation was a good call I think. It’s a good compromise for A beginner friendly guide in north America , which is the primary audience for the adafruit guides . Dealing with ac 110v stuff is a major risk/ concern and a serious entry barrier for a lot of folks. Adj powerstrip address that .

 

[Ranjib]

I want to build this stand with maker beam (or makerbeam xl) for one of my pico tank. I need some help with this .. @Erica-Renee or anyone more familiar

- This stand will hold an Imagitarium 3.7G, and its life support system.
- The life support system will include reef-pi controller , 7x4” , an adj powerstrip , bunch of wires , and a large 5g jug for ato reservoir.
- HOB Filter, heatr, return pump, a 12V DC power head, temp,ph, ato sensor and a Kessil A80 light, all will be mounted in the tank
Here is my tentative plan

I want the tank to be 28" (around 711mm), 12" wide 11" depth, with one shelf inside and a door. All the side will be covered with plywood, the door too will be made of plywood. The top shelf, where the stand will be kept will have a thicker plywood.

Some details around makerbeam , these are modular anodized aluminum frames and repeated accessories (screws, nuts, hinges, tslots, corner braces etc ).

My initial questions are
1) Can makerbeam support my tank weight and the ato water (10G overall), if not I have to go with makerbeam xl. I am not able to deduce this from their spec, which is hard for me to understand, its noted here
2) The actual frames are available in 300/600/900 mm sizes. Because I need 28" height, which is around 711mm, I have to either use 900mm frames and cut it to size or use 600mm and do something to adjust the gap. Is that even possible to do easily at home? cut anodized aluminum frames. and i'll also loos the threaded ends at the end of the frame (probably fine)
3) Is plywood the right choice for sides ? I am likely to build a acrylic/plexiglass sheet based side walls also, for makerfaire, to showcase the internal arrangement of the controller, wire management, adj powerstip etc.

once I have the basic plan validated and reviewd, i'll start working on a detailed plan including the bill of materials,
thanks in advance