LEDs are dimmable via PWM, but many of the drivers/power supplies may not support it direclty. The lights you linked to just seem to be a strip of LEDs pre-configured to work with 12v; they don't include a power supply. You should be able to use a mosfet or even ULN2803 to dim these kinds of strips with your own 12v supply.
That's what I thought. Maybe I'll buy those or some other one.
Get a strip of 5730 led or a cheapy light based on the 5730 they are brighter than the 3528s ...they will dim nicely and are bright enough to add some blue kick during the day if you need it
Thanks for the suggestion but I already bought some https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/reef-pi-the-all-in-one-pi-challenge.592733/page-9#post-6185856 I don't really need them to be super bright as I am only looking to use at night.
yes, both simple float switches or dfrobot photoelectric sensors should work
I use the coralife strip that came with the biocube, and power it with 12v 1A power supply, using pi pwm + a logic level power mosfet.
Yes. you can use darlingtons (unl2803) or power mosfets . The later are rater for higher current, while unl2803a is only good if your overall current draw is less than 700ma. Meanwell drivers are the one that are rated for even higher current and optimized for LED usage (constant current)
Should be, its not exactly dimming that we are doing with pwm, its more like very fast on/off .. at least with the lunar lights, since im controlling the power directly, while for kessil we only provide the control signal, i dont know internally its mapped to variable voltage (say 0-90W) or pwm (very fast on/off, and the % of on is controlling the dimming effect)
Should be. Something i am willing to consider post 3.0. not before that .. unless anyone else willing to do the engineering work
Spot on.. i have those and i dim everywhere..
kitchen, bathroom., wife's closet .. its not needed.. but why not , it will be cool to simulate storm effect in every corner of the home during halloween
Sometime before the 3.0 final release (thanksgiving). It's not priority right now.. but yes it's a simple logic to add but due to the complex nature of software development the actual work is lot more than that (UI, tests etc). So its better to get started with this while we work on some other temperature controller feature such as hysteresis
Hello, welcome to R2R and I'm glad to see you found the Reef-Pi.Hi friends ....
i'm planning to use one cheep PWM driver from china for moon lighting. In this i'm really not happy to connect my PWM (5v) from pca9685 to my led Driver (5v pwm)
If the drive fail, high volt from driver will burn the pca9685 or pi . So is it necessary to isolation pwm power between them... if so how to do it ...
here is the product link
https://www.tanotis.com/products/ta...vMapxB9UUJJax70K0dBTvfMc1Xp-orWoaAgnKEALw_wcB
From the initial look, I think this circuit already has those safety nets and you can use it readily, but we need specs (Datasheet) for that chip to be sure. I'll let others who know more chime in..Hi friends ....
i'm planning to use one cheep PWM driver from china for moon lighting. In this i'm really not happy to connect my PWM (5v) from pca9685 to my led Driver (5v pwm)
If the drive fail, high volt from driver will burn the pca9685 or pi . So is it necessary to isolation pwm power between them... if so how to do it ...
here is the product link
https://www.tanotis.com/products/ta...vMapxB9UUJJax70K0dBTvfMc1Xp-orWoaAgnKEALw_wcB
Can test with setting the min 10 and start at 0. I’m planning to remove the start setting@Ranjib the dernal cycle also has a bug where when I set the minimum to 0 and the start to 10 because 10 is the starting threshold of the mars aqua's working it is not ending at 10% at 21:00 or starting at 10% at 9:00 instead it appears to ignore the starting value and is ending at 0 at 21:00 which shuts off the lights early and too quickly as it should ramp down from 70 to 10 with the last bit being the slowest and instead it blows throught 10% and shut the lights off at 8:25 by going under the 10%
I have recently introduced a sine wave profile as part of the pwm profile work, which gives very similar effect (0 to pi )@Ranjib After working this many ways I have finally found a way to implement the parabolic lighting pattern which replicates the sun's constantly changing intensity. As per https://www.advancedaquarist.com/2013/12/lighting and many other studies and the chart posted by @Bigtrout a while back
y = a(x-U)2 + E
Reef-Pi Settings Which I use for example
Min 0 - Q
Max 70 - E
Start 10 - W
Start time 9 - R
End time 21 - T
Middle of day (needs to be calculated) - U
U=((T-R)/2)+R
U=((21-9)/2)+9
U=(12/2)+9
U=6+9
U=15
Now we start to fill out and solve
y = a(x-U)^2 + E
y = a(x-15)^2 + 70
To find a, plug in the values to (x,y) from the known start point (R,W) (9,10):
y = a(x-15)^2 + 70
W = a(R-15)^2 + 70
10 = a(9-15)^2 + 70
10 = a(-6)^2 + 70
10 = 36a + 70
-60 = 36a
a = −1.666666667
The final equation is
y = −1.666666667(x-15)^2 + 70
y is now the intensity %
x is now the time where hours are whole numbers and minutes are a decimal for example 9:30 is 9.5
Seems like that works. Seems as if the settings are confused or maybe I am lol. I assumed min was to keep it on a minimum light at all times regardless of timer and start was how you wanted it to start or something. Idk lol.
When will we see that? I'd love to see that asap!
