reef-pi :: An opensource reef tank controller based on Raspberry Pi.

[bishoptf]

How to turn off pwm lights?

Tried:

Disable light - won't save. Always shows up enabled.
Set maximum to zero - it will set to 100 as I guess zero is not allowed.

This seems to be a bug.

I Don't want to change our delete the lights, just turn them off until I want them back on.

Any help appreciated. Thanks in advance.

What version of reef-pi are you running, what kind of lights are you controlling and how?

 

[elysics]

How to turn off pwm lights?

Tried:

Disable light - won't save. Always shows up enabled.
Set maximum to zero - it will set to 100 as I guess zero is not allowed.

This seems to be a bug.

I Don't want to change our delete the lights, just turn them off until I want them back on.

Any help appreciated. Thanks in advance.

have you tried switching to manual mode by clicking the button that says auto and dragging the slider to 0? It won't delete your config, if you switch back to auto that will still be there

 

[bishoptf]

Yup looks like you need to carry over the ground, I tested both ways and it did not work as expected with NC outlets. I'd really like someone to explain in simpleton terms why this is and how the DJ strips are working without a ground from the rpi. I did some googling and has to do with the optical isolaters and how it is sinking to ground along with the JDVCC jumper. I found this thread that tries to explain it but its waaay over my head, lol - https://electronics.stackexchange.c...lay-module-with-jd-vcc-from-arduino-raspberry

Bottom line without the ground from the rpi (I tried grounding the relay in the enclosure itself), the NC outlet would trigger on when GND was touched on the rpi. It was clear that something was not quite right, but with ground brought over from the rpi it behaved as expected. I was tired last night and will try to read through that write up again but just thought @theatrus @robsworld78 or someone could explain in laymans terms what is going on.

Thanks :)

Following up, and being more of clear mind this am its the optical isolation that makes things different, once I went back and read that write up it makes *cough* more sense ( at least to my simpleton electronics mind). :)

 

[robsworld78]

Yup looks like you need to carry over the ground, I tested both ways and it did not work as expected with NC outlets. I'd really like someone to explain in simpleton terms why this is and how the DJ strips are working without a ground from the rpi. I did some googling and has to do with the optical isolaters and how it is sinking to ground along with the JDVCC jumper. I found this thread that tries to explain it but its waaay over my head, lol - https://electronics.stackexchange.c...lay-module-with-jd-vcc-from-arduino-raspberry

Bottom line without the ground from the rpi (I tried grounding the relay in the enclosure itself), the NC outlet would trigger on when GND was touched on the rpi. It was clear that something was not quite right, but with ground brought over from the rpi it behaved as expected. I was tired last night and will try to read through that write up again but just thought @theatrus @robsworld78 or someone could explain in laymans terms what is going on.

Thanks :)

I can't explain things very well but a common ground for DC is needed to complete the circuit otherwise it would be an open circuit. The isolator only isolates, doesn't eliminate the ground, you would still need to run one from Pi to relay board. I could be wrong but I don't think the DJ power bar has any circuit, just relays on a board so all you need is a common power wire to each relay and a ground to switch that's why no common ground was needed as it was all done on the controller PCB.

 

[Ranjib]

Some coral pics :-) , from one of the pico ,

blue tubbs

Shroom

cyphastrea , bizarro

Duncan

Rhodactis , another view

 

[Vnomus]

No. right now reef-pi everywhere uses poll based sensor reading. You can use API to trigger on demand.

Ok, wired the converter with Vin to the motor and Vout to GPIO17. Tested in at 12V and out at 5V and added GPIO17 as an input for the ATO. However, I'm not seeing any events recorded in the reef-pi ATO chart. Anything else I need to configure?

 

[robsworld78]

Ok, wired the converter with Vin to the motor and Vout to GPIO17. Tested in at 12V and out at 5V and added GPIO17 as an input for the ATO. However, I'm not seeing any events recorded in the reef-pi ATO chart. Anything else I need to configure?

When you created the ATO did you assign a piece of equipment to control? Without this the chart wouldn't update so it appears it's not working.

 

[Vnomus]

When you created the ATO did you assign a piece of equipment to control? Without this the chart wouldn't update so it appears it's not working.

Thank you!...I had no idea that was a required field...

 

[DWKDiver]

have you tried switching to manual mode by clicking the button that says auto and dragging the slider to 0? It won't delete your config, if you switch back to auto that will still be there

I tried that. I got a message in German I think, not the selected English language. it also errors with message about invalid times and will not switch back to auto. Had to delete and redo light, switch is what I want to avoid.

 

[bishoptf]

Well it appears a couple of my outlets in my dj strip are worn out, not the relay but the outlet itself. The receptacle connectors are not holding the plug tight at all so I want to replace a couple of them. Was wondering if anyone has used any of them in the past found a decent replacement, looked on Amazon but reviews are hit and miss. The part number on the outlet is SS-6B and here is what they look like

@robsworld78 or anyone that has used some decent replacements let me know, thanks. :)

 

[robsworld78]

Well it appears a couple of my outlets in my dj strip are worn out, not the relay but the outlet itself. The receptacle connectors are not holding the plug tight at all so I want to replace a couple of them. Was wondering if anyone has used any of them in the past found a decent replacement, looked on Amazon but reviews are hit and miss. The part number on the outlet is SS-6B and here is what they look like

@robsworld78 or anyone that has used some decent replacements let me know, thanks. :)

Looks like that's the socket on ebay, at one point I used them, if I remember you have to be quick with the soldering iron which isn't really possible or they deform internally and get lose. The last few years I've been getting the one's below, I believe it will fit nicely but it does look like there's no room for error, only difference I know is the small divider between the ground is taller and straight, these are better quality too.

https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/562-738W-X2-01

 

[bishoptf]

Looks like that's the socket on ebay, at one point I used them, if I remember you have to be quick with the soldering iron which isn't really possible or they deform internally and get lose. The last few years I've been getting the one's below, I believe it will fit nicely but it does look like there's no room for error, only difference I know is the small divider between the ground is taller and straight, these are better quality too.

https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/562-738W-X2-01

Yup I ended up ordering some similar from Digikey, they had a bunch on Amazon but weren't oem but knockoffs. The mouser/digikey are UL listed and should be much better. Understand about the heat, I think I have gotten better that I think I can do it, what stinks is how to take it apart, solid copper hard to remove one in the middle, will have to think about that one. My plan is to tin the heck of the tabs and then apply it to the copper, hopefully I can get it to work, we will see.

Thanks for the information...

 

[robsworld78]

Yup I ended up ordering some similar from Digikey, they had a bunch on Amazon but weren't oem but knockoffs. The mouser/digikey are UL listed and should be much better. Understand about the heat, I think I have gotten better that I think I can do it, what stinks is how to take it apart, solid copper hard to remove one in the middle, will have to think about that one. My plan is to tin the heck of the tabs and then apply it to the copper, hopefully I can get it to work, we will see.

Thanks for the information...

Yeah Digikey has the same one, these are more heat resistant, would take a lot to melt them. Solder also sticks to these tabs easy, don't need to tin them. Some batches of universal outlets I need to file the tabs before solder will stick, a real pain.

 

[bishoptf]

Yeah Digikey has the same one, these are more heat resistant, would take a lot to melt them. Solder also sticks to these tabs easy, don't need to tin them. Some batches of universal outlets I need to file the tabs before solder will stick, a real pain.

These are the ones that I ordered - https://www.digikey.com/en/products...1Se7ee4cXxM0ElwXZDMZ23x4R03S2hhmjN37cds7jmOEy, I actually had the others up on mouser but digikey shipping is a lot quicker and figured they were about the same...I guess I will find out. :)

 

[robsworld78]

These are the ones that I ordered - https://www.digikey.com/en/products...1Se7ee4cXxM0ElwXZDMZ23x4R03S2hhmjN37cds7jmOEy, I actually had the others up on mouser but digikey shipping is a lot quicker and figured they were about the same...I guess I will find out. :)

I haven't seen that one, looking at the datasheet there is a slight difference in size, probably no datasheet for the SS-B6.

 

[bishoptf]

Here is my new blue tux cruising around the tank...

Still need to get the new PH module up and working just haven't had any time, need to print out a PH holder, I have the PH meter just need to put it together...:)

 

[bishoptf]

I haven't seen that one, looking at the datasheet there is a slight difference in size, probably no datasheet for the SS-B6.

Yeah I hope it will fit, to lazy to take measurements of the one I pulled out...I always have a dremel, lol. :)

 

[GaryE]

Yeah I hope it will fit, to lazy to take measurements of the one I pulled out...I always have a dremel, lol. :)

I use something like this when removing hard to remove solder joints:

Low Melt DeSolder Wire, Low-Temp SMD De-Soldering Removes Chip Quick & Easy

SMD removal with LowMelt Desolder Wire removes chip quick and easy less than 150°C. SMD Rework.

www.zeph.com

It stays "liquid" longer to give you a bit more work time. I usually use a "solder sucker" first to remove as much of the existing solder and then apply a bit of this stuff and can work the parts apart without hacking it to bits

 

[bishoptf]

So I went an bought a used Kessil a160we for my nano coral QT frag tank without a controller and starting to think about adding to reef-pi. Since its a coral only tank the controller is not really needed, not doing sunrise/sunset now but may want to do it. Trying to think how I can tie that into mike lanes pi hat and looking at the ADA fruit lighting controller page - https://learn.adafruit.com/reef-pi-lighting-controller/overview since its 10v pwm I would need to do something for the 2 channels in a break out box with some resistors and transistors like @ranjob called out, but wondering if anyone already has something made up or done something similar in the past. I looked at @theatrus blueacro page and he has something for going to Apex but didn't see anything else that may help. Basically I would feed pwm and ground from my existing hat and then convert that to 10v pwm to go to the Apex.

Anyone have any thoughts or suggestions will poke around and see if I find anything. :)

Update I think I have my head wrapped around how I would do this, will see if I can fritz something and see what folks think, trying to do something in a small pkg, maybe dead bug it with heat shrink, or put it in my enclosure...I actually have some NPN transistors on hand so I have everything to make it work.

 

[bishoptf]

I can follow the fritz diagram but I am hoping someone can explain how its working, 10v is inbound and then goes through 1k resistor which then goes to the collector and outputs 10v pwm but just not sure I follow how that is working. The blue lines are the 10v pwm output, 5v pwm from the reef-pi hat goes through a 10k resistor to the base pin, just not sure how that is switching the 10v input. Prolly a dumb question just trying to understand how it works. :)