reefbrite repair.

mickeysreef <*))))<

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hey I'm fixing a reefbrite 60 xho blue bar. date of manufacture 2/18/15

trying to figure out what LEDs to order. need to replace 24 of them

16161858074148381942218833537798.jpg 16161858447283580087300294460958.jpg 16161858651971021574644237811964.jpg
 
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oreo5457

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oreo5457

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Oh and don't forget thermal adhesive for the center bit.
One of the easiest ways to have them fail is the center lifting off the heat sink.
So simple thermal compounds don't really seem to be the best thing.
Not sure I'd go as far as the 2 part epoxies, thermal silicone is probably good enough.

BTW the diodes below those browned lenses may still work. Removing the lens (and the now wider beam angle) is a possibility.

10000k whites here:

Not sure about beam angles overall. Should all be between 90-120
 
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mickeysreef <*))))<

mickeysreef <*))))<

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Oh and don't forget thermal adhesive for the center bit.
One of the easiest ways to have them fail is the center lifting off the heat sink.
So simple thermal compounds don't really seem to be the best thing.
Not sure I'd go as far as the 2 part epoxies, thermal silicone is probably good enough.

BTW the diodes below those browned lenses may still work. Removing the lens (and the now wider beam angle) is a possibility.

10000k whites here:

Not sure about beam angles overall. Should all be between 90-120


thanks there seems to be plenty thermal adhesive on there but will get some more. I found some blues here 50pcs for $11 + shipping.

 
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mickeysreef <*))))<

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I bought two 60" bars for $100 each today. one is in perfect condition the other has 24 of the LEDs shining but burnt lens.

looks like an easy fix for about $20
 
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mickeysreef <*))))<

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looks like every other lens is burned. they all function though. just got the first one off. definitely going to be a lot of work to get them all off. I'm not even sure how to solder the back side of the new ones to the plate.
 

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oreo5457

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looks like every other lens is burned. they all function though. just got the first one off. definitely going to be a lot of work to get them all off. I'm not even sure how to solder the back side of the new ones to the plate.
You don't, just clean the center pad off and use thermal glue like "heatsink plaster".

Yea removing the soldered ones manually is a pretty destructive process.
Some twist them off ..some do this:
 
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mickeysreef <*))))<

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ok so I'm very happy at the moment. every other bulb was melted but functioning. probably the light bar overheated. I'll get my order in for the bulbs and the thermal adhesive and the thermal glue. idk if they're the same I don't think so - the silver paste definitely wasn't stuck on like the bulbs.

everything looks good. thanks for your help super appreciate it.
 
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oreo5457

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ok so I'm very happy at the moment. every other bulb was melted but functioning. probably the light bar overheated. I'll get my order in for the bulbs and the thermal adhesive and the thermal glue. idk if their the same I don't think so - the silver paste definitely wasn't stuck on like the bulbs.

everything looks good. thanks for your help super appreciate it.
Well technically the photon flux "burned" organic compounds (contaminants or solvents) in the lens material.
I assume melting was from the now created brown hotspots..

AHHH now I see why you were referring to 2 seperate places. You removed both the diodes and the diode boards..
 
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mickeysreef <*))))<

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Well technically the photon flux "burned" organic compounds (contaminants or solvents) in the lens material.
I assume melting was from the now created brown hotspots..

AHHH now I see why you were referring to 2 seperate places. You removed both the diodes and the diode boards..

yeah the diodes were working but I wasn't able to get off just the lens. maybe I could have popped them off? eh too late now
 

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there are 2 parts which need thermal glues
1, the bottom of each bulb to the aluminum PCB.
2, the bottom of the aluminum PCB to aliminum sheel

Please I also suggest you ensure the spectrum of the blue bulb. the best is a mixed of
1, 400-410nm 10%
2, 430-450nm 40%
3, 450-470nm 40-50%
4, 470-500nm 10% if you like cycan blue color for you tank to decrease the deep dark feeling.
 
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mickeysreef <*))))<

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yeah you are right I could have just popped off those lenses.
 

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Please it is not only lenses, it is also a cover to much decrease the oxidation of the internal silk. otherwise, that bulb will damage very fast.

So, if the lens is loos or off, that bulb has to be replace also.
 
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mickeysreef <*))))<

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yeah I figured just better to replace the whole thing.

do you have some LEDs you want to sell me for this? the color I believe is royal blue

I bought 2. one was good
 

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oreo5457

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yeah you are right I could have just popped off those lenses.
In case you were curious, how those old school packages were made.
Some under that lens have a sort of silicone "goo". The encapsulation part.
To increase LED stability the space between the crystal and the plastic lens is filled with transparent silicon
Theoretically one could reseal w/out lens w/ clear high temp silicone.
But at like 25 cents each best to just replace it.
ledchip.JPG


If it wasn't for repair work or DIY ease this type of cheap assembly shouldn't be used... anymore.
 
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