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Oh and don't forget thermal adhesive for the center bit.
One of the easiest ways to have them fail is the center lifting off the heat sink.
So simple thermal compounds don't really seem to be the best thing.
Not sure I'd go as far as the 2 part epoxies, thermal silicone is probably good enough.
BTW the diodes below those browned lenses may still work. Removing the lens (and the now wider beam angle) is a possibility.
10000k whites here:
6 Pack 3W LED Replacement HI Lumen Chip DIY 10000K Actinic 460nm 3 Watt | eBay
Used products will not be accepted. Quantity: 6x.www.ebay.com
Not sure about beam angles overall. Should all be between 90-120
You don't, just clean the center pad off and use thermal glue like "heatsink plaster".looks like every other lens is burned. they all function though. just got the first one off. definitely going to be a lot of work to get them all off. I'm not even sure how to solder the back side of the new ones to the plate.
Well technically the photon flux "burned" organic compounds (contaminants or solvents) in the lens material.ok so I'm very happy at the moment. every other bulb was melted but functioning. probably the light bar overheated. I'll get my order in for the bulbs and the thermal adhesive and the thermal glue. idk if their the same I don't think so - the silver paste definitely wasn't stuck on like the bulbs.
everything looks good. thanks for your help super appreciate it.
Well technically the photon flux "burned" organic compounds (contaminants or solvents) in the lens material.
I assume melting was from the now created brown hotspots..
AHHH now I see why you were referring to 2 seperate places. You removed both the diodes and the diode boards..
In case you were curious, how those old school packages were made.yeah you are right I could have just popped off those lenses.
Theoretically one could reseal w/out lens w/ clear high temp silicone.To increase LED stability the space between the crystal and the plastic lens is filled with transparent silicon