RODI booster

bks

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lapin

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Either way with 40psi you need something. I have a 8800. It’s about 9 years old. Works great. Pressure is adjustable. 600 gallon system so I probably make more water than the average person.
I don’t know what’s inside the buddie.
 

exnisstech

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@Buckeye Hydro helps members here even when they aren't customers. They can hook you up with anything you need and offer assistance via phone call if needed. They'll even help you decide what you need if your in doubt.

20% off sale going on now.


PS: I use an RO buddy but I'm having trouble with my system currently and with all the solenoids and built in flow restrictor on the buddy I'm having a hard time trouble shooting.
 

UncommonSense

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I’ve been running the Aquatec 8800 for right around a decade now (according to the date of manufacture sticker)

it’s a fantastic booster pump, and has run like a Swiss watch for me!

— I will add that mine started to slowly loose pressure over time, starting at around the 7-8year mark… likely due to being run dry (or at dead head) on multiple occasions when city water was turned off without my knowledge, and it was left running…

— the Aquatec 880 does not automatically flush RO membrane(s), a seperate auto flush kit is required!


The RO buddy is what I was initially examining as a replacement for my worn Aquatec 8800… however, after reading @Buckeye Hydro ’s troubleshooting with @exnisstech , regarding the built-in flow restrictor… I’m leaning towards just ordering a new pump assembly for my Aqutec 8800, and continuing to use the original motor!


TLDR:

RO buddy = preset, “all in one”, easiest to install!

Aquatec 8800 = everything is modular/tunable, more complex!
 
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bks

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I’ve been running the Aquatec 8800 for right around a decade now (according to the date of manufacture sticker)

it’s a fantastic booster pump, and has run like a Swiss watch for me!

— I will add that mine started to slowly loose pressure over time, starting at around the 7-8year mark… likely due to being run dry (or at dead head) on multiple occasions when city water was turned off without my knowledge, and it was left running…

— the Aquatec 880 does not automatically flush RO membrane(s), a seperate auto flush kit is required!


The RO buddy is what I was initially examining as a replacement for my worn Aquatec 8800… however, after reading @Buckeye Hydro ’s troubleshooting with @exnisstech , regarding the built-in flow restrictor… I’m leaning towards just ordering a new pump assembly for my Aqutec 8800, and continuing to use the original motor!


TLDR:

RO buddy = preset, “all in one”, easiest to install!

Aquatec 8800 = everything is modular/tunable, more complex!

Thx for sharing your info and experience.
I was thinking the same re: RO buddy's simplicity but I will review @Buckeye Hydro's users issues and consider before moving forward. Before I do my feeling at this point is that both boosters are good products but if I had to say which is more likely to cause any issues, based on what i've read, the RO buddy might be slightly more likely to have issues.
 

UncommonSense

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based on what i've read, the RO buddy might be slightly more likely to have issues
From what I understand (from admittedly only skimming the key points), the factory installed waste line flow restrictor on the RO buddy can be undersized in situations where one’s tap water is harder!

To complicate matters, it’s not particularly clear where this flow restrictor is located, or how things work inside the box…

— lacking having done (or finding any documentation on) a destructive autopsy of an RO buddy to actually figure out how it’s all built, I opted to err towards caution and stick with a modular pressure booster pump!
 
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bks

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based on what i've read, the RO buddy might be slightly more likely to have issues
From what I understand (from admittedly only skimming the key points), the factory installed waste line flow restrictor on the RO buddy can be undersized in situations where one’s tap water is harder!

To complicate matters, it’s not particularly clear where this flow restrictor is located, or how things work inside the box…

— lacking having done (or finding any documentation on) a destructive autopsy of an RO buddy to actually figure out how it’s all built, I opted to err towards caution and stick with a modular pressure booster pump!
Ok thx again for that clarification. Completely understand why you would take your approach. I guess in my case I like the simplicity of the RO Buddy and I would not consider our tap water as hard.

When I have a chance, I will still review the hard water issue posted. In the meantime, did you happen to get a sense of how they defined hard water? TDS greater than N?
 

UncommonSense

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did you happen to get a sense of how they defined hard water? TDS greater than N?
Oof, I can’t recall what @Buckeye Hydro has stated as the proverbial cutoff between soft, and hard water in the past! (In PPM TDS)

It could be worth referencing some of the data on their site, pending a chance for them to respond with the relevant info here!

(For reference, my tap water is 200-220PPM TDS, typically! — I recall it being at or over the threshold for my 600LPD flow restrictor last I checked… I’ll be swapping to a 800-ish LPD flow restrictor after making my yearly Black Friday filter replacement order!)
 

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I have been using the Smart Buddie for around tow years now. It has been working flawlessly. The only issue I have is I can’t pull my RO line out of one of these ports. I suppose I can try to pull harder but want to avoid that if possible. I can use the unit just fine—I only discovered the issue when doing some maintenance on my RODI membranes.
 

UncommonSense

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I have been using the Smart Buddie for around tow years now. It has been working flawlessly. The only issue I have is I can’t pull my RO line out of one of these ports. I suppose I can try to pull harder but want to avoid that if possible. I can use the unit just fine—I only discovered the issue when doing some maintenance on my RODI membranes.
Use a 1/4” straight push connect coupler!

Simply cut the tubing you cannot remove from the RO buddy cleanly, several inches away from the RO buddy… then, attach the tubing back together with one of these couplers!

This will allow you to disconnect the RO buddy, despite the permanently stuck tubing!

image.jpg


This particular example on my general DI water moving tubing has had a rough life over more than half a decade, but still holds pressure, and still decouples easily!
 

slingfox

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Use a 1/4” straight push connect coupler!

Simply cut the tubing you cannot remove from the RO buddy cleanly, several inches away from the RO buddy… then, attach the tubing back together with one of these couplers!

This will allow you to disconnect the RO buddy, despite the permanently stuck tubing!

image.jpg


This particular example on my general DI water moving tubing has had a rough life over more than half a decade, but still holds pressure, and still decouples easily!
Yes I have a bunch of spare RO tubing supplies so nonissues with using the unit thankfully. Other than the stuck tube issue the unit has been working flawlessly. Even if the unit breaks down at year 4 or 5 (seems doubtful) I would buy it again without hesitation.
 

Buckeye Hydro

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Oof, I can’t recall what @Buckeye Hydro has stated as the proverbial cutoff between soft, and hard water in the past! (In PPM TDS)

It could be worth referencing some of the data on their site, pending a chance for them to respond with the relevant info here!

(For reference, my tap water is 200-220PPM TDS, typically! — I recall it being at or over the threshold for my 600LPD flow restrictor last I checked… I’ll be swapping to a 800-ish LPD flow restrictor after making my yearly Black Friday filter replacement order!)
Filmtec provides the following specs for their 75 gpd membranes:
1764243680566.png

"15% recovery" means about a 5.5 to 1 ratio of concentrate to permeate. And note these specs assume softened water (hardness less than 1 grain per gallon or 17 ppm).

Remember that TDS is not the same as hardness. Hardness is a subset of TDS.
 
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bks

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Well I've done more learning about RODI filters than I ever had before. After a back and forth I have come to change my mind. I like the idea @UncommonSense has re: Aquatec 8800 being more modular, even though it is a little less plug-n-play if you will, than the smart buddie. I'm sure the smart buddie is a good option too.

I've decided to go with:
- 5 stage water saver from BRS (https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/5-st...ver-ro-di-system-bulk-reef-supply-bundle.html)
- 1/4" 8800 Aquatec booster (https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/1-4-aquatec-8800-booster-pump-bundle.html)
- BRS 75 GPD auto-flush flow kit, which inlcudes the pressure switch as well (https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/75-gpd-auto-flush-flow-kit-aquatec-bundle.html)

I also found out (src City of Ottawa, Canada) that the central water supply has a TDS between ~90-220 ppm and total hardness of ~ 30 ppm. And we src water from city supply.

I do have a couple quesitons though re: booster integration.
1) Why do you need a auto-flush flow restrictor if the BRS RODI comes with one?
2) I may be wrong but I thought I saw a couple comments from different sources saying that the booster should be placed between the last carbon filter and first RO membrane. Is this true or is it as I've seen in several videos supposed to go before the sediment filter?
 

UncommonSense

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1) Why do you need a auto-flush flow restrictor if the BRS RODI comes with one?
You don’t need an auto flush kit at all, membranes can be manually flushed, too! — the flush kit is primarily for us lazy folks!

I may be wrong but I thought I saw a couple comments from different sources saying that the booster should be placed between the last carbon filter and first RO membrane. Is this true or is it as I've seen in several videos supposed to go before the sediment filter?
Both placements will work, however pre-sediment filter installation calls for an additional prefilter (in-line strainer, at or over a given mesh size [memory pulls up minimum 100mesh, but it’s been a while]) for the booster pump!

By placing the booster pump between last carbon block and RO membrane(s), you omit the now erroneous inline prefilter! (It also means your sediment and carbon filter housings aren’t running at such high pressure!)

This is the booster pump only, what you want is the kit that includes the 24v power supply, and automatic shutoff (ASO) inline pressure switch!


Additionally, I recommend getting an inline pressure gauge, to install on the booster pump outlet line! — this will help with system maintenance and troubleshooting, in addition to allowing you to safely adjust your AquaTec 8800’s output pressure without risking rupturing RO system housings or fittings!

 
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bks

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Thanks for answering both questions. Both good to know. RE: sediment potentially getting into pump, I had heard same.

RE: booster pump kit, good eye. I decided however to get just the booster pump, paired with the auto-flush flow kit. The latter provides adapter, auto flush and pressure switch.

1) RE: pressure guage, the 5-stage provides one but I think it is AFTER the RO membrane so you can see if the RO needs to be replaced over time. So you are suggesting putting another before the RO membrane to ensure you don't go too high PSI into the membrane?

2) I read another post on here that talked about a guy getting very, very poor lifetime from his resin. Then someone asked if he was flushing prior to the DI. He said he was not and found out that at the beginning he was getting 400+ TDS for a little while going into the DI. So he was recommended to have a T ball valve that allowed the flow to be flushed pre-DI for a while, and then after a minute or two, turned back to the DI filter. Does that make sense? I think I saw one of the videos from BRS or somewhere else suggest same. OR will using the autoflush take care of this?

Really appreciate the forums since you can watch videos a long time but when you have a more detailed question, the videos either give conflicting advide OR, more often, avoid bringing it up for needing to keep the videos short.
 

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