RODI Buddy Help-Filter or Membrane

[SeaHorseQueen]

Hi Reefers,

Tonight is the first time the TDS has officially went from zero to 17 from the last water change. I noticed the flow was a little off but not supper slow.

Do I change the membrane or DI? I wouldn’t have thought that I needed to change the membrane until next year but what do you think? I’ve been trying to find the answers online but it’s kind of confusing. I’ve only been running it since April-ish? It’s not been 6 months. What about sediment since it kinda slowed down some?

This is what it looks like tonight.

 

[UncommonSense]

Tonight is the first time the TDS has officially went from zero to 17 from the last water change. I noticed the flow was a little off but not supper slow.

This is RODI product water TDS, correct?

Do I change the membrane or DI? I wouldn’t have thought that I needed to change the membrane until next year but what do you think?

Membranes usually last quite a while, assuming you aren’t scaling them with an incorrectly set up water softener, clogging them with no sediment filter, or breaking them down via mechanical or chemical means…

—good membranes last multiple years under typical operating condition!

What about sediment since it kinda slowed down some?

Sediment could be due, it is a small filter!

This is what it looks like tonight.

This looks like color changing resin… if so, it hasn’t changed to spent (yellow-brown) color yet, at least!

Has the DI resin been replaced since you bought the RODI system? If so, what brand, and did you pack the resin down in the cartridge thoroughly as you filled it to prevent water channeling around the resin?

 

[SeaHorseQueen]

This is RODI product water TDS, correct?


Membranes usually last quite a while, assuming you aren’t scaling them with an incorrectly set up water softener, clogging them with no sediment filter, or breaking them down via mechanical or chemical means…

—good membranes last multiple years under typical operating condition!


Sediment could be due, it is a small filter!


This looks like color changing resin… if so, it hasn’t changed to spent (yellow-brown) color yet, at least!

Has the DI resin been replaced since you bought the RODI system? If so, what brand, and did you pack the resin down in the cartridge thoroughly as you filled it to prevent water channeling around the resin?

Yes, it’s from the product TDS. Nothing has been changed or replaced on the system as of yet. I just hook it up the faucet and unhook it when I’m done. I don’t think I’ve done anything to break down the membrane but what I was reading said it should be replaced if the TDS increases. But that also doesn’t make sense because the membrane should last longer than a year.

 

[UncommonSense]

Yes, it’s from the product TDS. Nothing has been changed or replaced on the system as of yet. I just hook it up the faucet and unhook it when I’m done. I don’t think I’ve done anything to break down the membrane but what I was reading said it should be replaced if the TDS increases. But that also doesn’t make sense because the membrane should last longer than a year.

Agreed… what brand of RODI system is this?

I’m wondering if the DI resin isn’t color changing, and is just completely spent!

 

[SeaHorseQueen]

Agreed… what brand of RODI system is this?

I’m wondering if the DI resin isn’t color changing, and is just completely spent!

It’s aquatic life. It’s possible that the DI resin is done. If so, I wonder what would make it not change? I have a chloramine canister hooked up to it due to being city water. Idk if that makes a difference in this situation though.

 

[UncommonSense]

It’s aquatic life. It’s possible that the DI resin is done. If so, I wonder what would make it not change? I have a chloramine canister hooked up to it due to being city water. Idk if that makes a difference in this situation though.

If anything, the chloramine canister is helping (assuming your city uses chloramines, this could be spent if that’s the case; you can test RO waste water with a free and total chlorine test strip to determine)

Your DI resin should be color changing with this system… so it shouldn’t be spent!

Is it possible to relocate your TDS meter to post-RO, pre-DI to see what PPM TDS your RO product water is starting at, before DI?

 

[Buckeye Hydro Verified Sponsor]

Is it possible to relocate your TDS meter to post-RO, pre-DI to see what PPM TDS your RO product water is starting at, before DI?

This is the way.

You want to know TDS in 3 locations:
tap water
RO water
DI water

You want to see at least a 95% reduction from tap water to RO water (better yet, something better than 97% reduction), and you want to see 0 ppm after the DI.

Without these three measurements, you can't tell if the membrane is the issue or not.

 

[Buckeye Hydro Verified Sponsor]

Be careful following that vendor's instructions regarding when to change the DI. You'll likely get DI water TDS >1 ppm long before the entire cartridge has changed color.

 

[UMALUM]

1. That resin will start to turn a rust color when depleted.

2. You said faucet, and that might have been ok when the filters were new but the membrane needs much more pressure than a typical interior faucet can provide especially after it gets broken in. You'll have better pressure using an exterior spigot or one in the laundry room.

3. As mentioned test all three sources so you know what your dealing with and never buy the aftermarket membrane from Amazon. They don't work on these units.

4. Make sure whatever your using to collect test samples is disinfected. The slightest bit of salt or any kind of residue will throw that meter off.

 

[SeaHorseQueen]

Hey, I have an update for test results to TDS as of this morning. All but the first two tests of RO test are done in 3 minute increments timed. The first two are estimated 1-2 minutes so I’m just considering that as cleaning the cycle but they’re still listed.

Sink: 217

RO: 9,4,4,5,5
DI: 0,0,0

Idk what happened overnight but it was reading 17 in DI last night and I run it the same way every time. Could have been build up in water lines? Or Sediment is funny. It has inconsistent RO or DI output pressure but not that hard of a change. The waste line is strong and consistent though.

 

[SeaHorseQueen]

1. That resin will start to turn a rust color when depleted.

2. You said faucet, and that might have been ok when the filters were new but the membrane needs much more pressure than a typical interior faucet can provide especially after it gets broken in. You'll have better pressure using an exterior spigot or one in the laundry room.

3. As mentioned test all three sources so you know what your dealing with and never buy the aftermarket membrane from Amazon. They don't work on these units.

4. Make sure whatever your using to collect test samples is disinfected. The slightest bit of salt or any kind of residue will throw that meter off.

I don’t have access to those living in an apartment otherwise I’d have gotten the bigger systems that I could install permanently. That’s why I went with this model.

 

[SeaHorseQueen]

1. That resin will start to turn a rust color when depleted.

2. You said faucet, and that might have been ok when the filters were new but the membrane needs much more pressure than a typical interior faucet can provide especially after it gets broken in. You'll have better pressure using an exterior spigot or one in the laundry room.

3. As mentioned test all three sources so you know what your dealing with and never buy the aftermarket membrane from Amazon. They don't work on these units.

4. Make sure whatever your using to collect test samples is disinfected. The slightest bit of salt or any kind of residue will throw that meter off.

I don’t have access to those living in an apartment otherwise I’d have gotten the bigger systems that I could install permanently. That’s why I went with this model.

 

[UncommonSense]

membrane needs much more pressure than a typical interior faucet can provide especially after it gets broken in.

I’m sorry, but this simply isn’t true.

Unless a residential faucet has a dedicated pressure regulator installed; pressure at a faucet will be effectively identical to all other plumbing in the home.

Maybe you’re getting pressure and volume mixed up? — regardless, a faucet has plenty of both to supply a single membrane RODI in almost every case…

 

[Freenow54]

It’s aquatic life. It’s possible that the DI resin is done. If so, I wonder what would make it not change? I have a chloramine canister hooked up to it due to being city water. Idk if that makes a difference in this situation though.

I have read through this. I cannot explain it at all. Your resin looks like new. My system says to change filters every 6 months. I do resin at the same time just because. It also says to do main RO cartridge every 2 years. I bought one just because of that posted that and Randy Holmes stated he never has changed his. Makes no sense that that TDS reading is what it is. still thinking

 

[UncommonSense]

It has inconsistent RO or DI output pressure

living in an apartment

Do you have a pressure gauge to get a physical reading on your city water pressure?

Depending on the apartment building (number of residents, number of stories, city plumbing, building plumbing)…

it is entirely possible that you were getting that high TDS reading during a time when building water demand was very high (everyone showering/cooking), subsequently severely dropping building water pressure…

Single RO membranes typically like having over 40psi to operate efficiently… is it possible you were making water during a time when you had very low home water pressure?

 

[Freenow54]

Do you have a pressure gauge to get a physical reading on your city water pressure?

Depending on the apartment building (number of residents, number of stories, city plumbing, building plumbing)…

it is entirely possible that you were getting that high TDS reading during a time when building water demand was very high (everyone showering/cooking), subsequently severely dropping building water pressure…

Single RO membranes typically like having over 40psi to operate efficiently… is it possible you were making water during a time when you had very low home water pressure?

This meant for UncommonSense. I was unaware of this possibility. Since you seem to taking the Ball and running with it do you see a way they could add a booster pump to overcome that?

 

[UncommonSense]

This meant for UncommonSense. I was unaware of this possibility. Since you seem to taking the Ball and running with it do you see a way they could add a booster pump to overcome that?

A booster pump would absolutely overcome lower tap water pressure!

It is nearly the same price as the RO unit, with added complexity… so it’s an option I’m putting a pin in until more diagnostic info is known!

— a pressure gauge reading, possibly at several times during the day, will tell us wether or not home water pressure could be part of this high TDS issue!

@SeaHorseQueen , if your RODI system doesn’t have a pressure gauge, there are several ways to test… best-bet would likely be an in-line pressure gauge on the RODI, given that a garden hose spigot gauge isn’t applicable in this situation!

 

[SeaHorseQueen]

Do you have a pressure gauge to get a physical reading on your city water pressure?

Depending on the apartment building (number of residents, number of stories, city plumbing, building plumbing)…

it is entirely possible that you were getting that high TDS reading during a time when building water demand was very high (everyone showering/cooking), subsequently severely dropping building water pressure…

Single RO membranes typically like having over 40psi to operate efficiently… is it possible you were making water during a time when you had very low home water pressure?

I don’t have any gauges. I’m not sure how to attach them or where to attach them to the system. Why do I look for in a gage? It’s very possible that it was busy because it’s an entire building on the same water lines. I think it was after 7pm but the water pipes have been busting some occasionally all year throughout the property. Last week they had a break close by. So they’ve had a lot of maintenance this year alone. My brother and I had a discussion at lunch time about maybe there was build up in the pipes that may have dislodged. Whether it could have done that is interesting enough.

 

[UMALUM]

I’m sorry, but this simply isn’t true.

Unless a residential faucet has a dedicated pressure regulator installed; pressure at a faucet will be effectively identical to all other plumbing in the home.

Maybe you’re getting pressure and volume mixed up? — regardless, a faucet has plenty of both to supply a single membrane RODI in almost every case…

The basic ro buddie calls for 50 - 90 psi. The water in my house runs 40 inside and 70 outside. I'm far from a plumber but I did graduate 3rd grade. The reason I mentioned it was because several people have had trouble trying to hook them up inside do to excessively low pressure. Now that she says she's living in an apartment her pressure could definitely be to low from time to time for numerous reasons.

 

[UncommonSense]

Why do I look for in a gage?

The pressure gauge would indicate if there was severe low water pressure (<40PSI), which in your case, is possible during high water demand hours!

but the water pipes have been busting some occasionally all year throughout the property. Last week they had a break close by. So they’ve had a lot of maintenance this year alone. My brother and I had a discussion at lunch time about maybe there was build up in the pipes that may have dislodged. Whether it could have done that is interesting enough.

That is indeed interesting!

Old pipes can and will release scale/crud when messed with; given the amount of plumbing failures and repairs you’re describing, this is also a likely culprit of high TDS!