RODI BUILD YOUR OWN??

Discussion in 'General Equipment, Hardware, Filtration' started by mckinleyw, Feb 19, 2018.

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  1. mckinleyw

    mckinleyw AIRBORNE REEFER R2R Supporter Reef Tank 365 Tampa Bay Reef Keepers Partner Member 2018 Build Thread Contributor

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    I was wondering if any one would be able to help me figure out how to hook up a list of parts to a 6 stage rodi unit. i will list all the parts i want on this system.

    currently running:
    Prefilter to Booster pump,
    to 5 micron sediment, to 5 micron carbon, to 1 micron carbon, through aso to ro.
    Ro goes to di and then di again to pressure switch for booster pump then brute 35 gal. s

    I want to add a pressure tank and faucet. I also have a permeate pump. What would be the best way to run these into the mix? I want to get ro only at the pressure tank and faucet with di going into a separate storage bucket.

    Any help is greatly appreciated.
     
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  2. mckinleyw

    mckinleyw AIRBORNE REEFER R2R Supporter Reef Tank 365 Tampa Bay Reef Keepers Partner Member 2018 Build Thread Contributor

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    here is a pic of what I have running at this time. thanks

    rodisetup.jpg
     
  3. Opus

    Opus Valuable Member

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    Isn't it recommended to have the booster pump after all the pre/carbon filters? Second, I believe it is recommended to have the smallest micron as the first filter not the last.
     
  4. redfishbluefish

    redfishbluefish Stay Positive, Stay Productive Staff Member Team R2R R2R Supporter R2R Excellence Award Article Contributor Build Thread Contributor NJRC Member

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    I would not combine a storage tank, DI resin and an automated system all in one. The reason is that the storage tank will cause the RO unit to come on and off with each use. Every time an RO unit starts, there is breakthrough TDS. If you measure that TDS in the storage tank, it might be as high as 40....just to pick a number (it will be dependent on ejection rate of the membrane and the frequency in which this unit turns on and off). With TDS this high in the storage tank, when you go to make DI water, this high TDS will burn out your DI resin fairly fast. I'd suggest setting up the storage tank and have a three way valve that can be turned when you wish to make DI water, cutting off the storage tank from the DI resin part. In the diagram below, you'd put in a three way valve (like this one from BRS) between the membrane and the carbon polishing filter (just below the yellow tubing line. The tubing from this valve would go to your DI resin canister. Hope this helps.

    RO System Installation.jpg
     
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  5. rlman41299

    rlman41299 Well-Known Member R2R Supporter Partner Member 2018

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    This is what confuses me. Spectrapure diagrams shows booster pump after prefilter/carbon filters and before membrane but BRS video shows booster pump was before prefilter/carbon filters.
    What is the correct way?
     
  6. mckinleyw

    mckinleyw AIRBORNE REEFER R2R Supporter Reef Tank 365 Tampa Bay Reef Keepers Partner Member 2018 Build Thread Contributor

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    thanks i seen that picture. my rodi is constantly available It is hooked into a Neptune solenoid and ATO kit. And yes i know this is dangerous, I trust this for my top off. again thank you.
     
  7. mckinleyw

    mckinleyw AIRBORNE REEFER R2R Supporter Reef Tank 365 Tampa Bay Reef Keepers Partner Member 2018 Build Thread Contributor

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    There really isn't a correct way. If you plumb before the sediment filters you should add a small filter before the booster to protect it from any particulates from damaging it.
    If you plumb after the sediment just insure that you have good pressure feeding the booster pump.
     
  8. mckinleyw

    mckinleyw AIRBORNE REEFER R2R Supporter Reef Tank 365 Tampa Bay Reef Keepers Partner Member 2018 Build Thread Contributor

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    IDK about smallest first. but i originally had the booster hooked up after prefilters. I added a small prefilter to the booster and put it first per brs recommend in their video.

    I figured you would want the smalled micron last as to allow the bigger microns to catch the bigger pieces first as to not clog as fast in the 1 micron filter. am i wrong in this aspect someone please correct me if i am.
     
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  9. Opus

    Opus Valuable Member

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    I was told you wanted the prefilter to be the smallest so the carbon filters didn't get clogged up quicker and were able to do their chemical work more efficiently. Since you have more than one carbon filter maybe that isn't an issue. I believe many years ago on the other major board they had a knock down drag out on this subject between 2 vendors with one finally getting booted from the board. I personally have a .2 micron prefilter so I don't think I'm going to find a carbon filter that small. I run a 1 micron carbon after the .2 prefilter.
     
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  10. mckinleyw

    mckinleyw AIRBORNE REEFER R2R Supporter Reef Tank 365 Tampa Bay Reef Keepers Partner Member 2018 Build Thread Contributor

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    As you can see i run 1 sediment and 2 carbons. My supply water is from a well so i don't think i need to worry about the chlorine or chloramines too much.
     
  11. Reef Jeff

    Reef Jeff Active Member

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    I run two prefilters. 5 micron > 1 micron > carbon block > RO > DI1 > DI2. I don't use a booster, but I don't think it matters where you boost as long as the pressure on the membrane is in spec. If you had a lot of sediment in the water it would make sense to boost after the sediment filter and/or carbon filter, but otherwise I wouldn't worry one way of the other.
     
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  12. mckinleyw

    mckinleyw AIRBORNE REEFER R2R Supporter Reef Tank 365 Tampa Bay Reef Keepers Partner Member 2018 Build Thread Contributor

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    so here is a pic I found on google of what I was kind of looking to do. I need the booster because my well pressure at my inlet is only around 40 psi.

    rodi-setup.jpg
     
  13. Airwarf

    Airwarf Member

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    One thing to note about the pressure tanks, especially if you don't spring for the stainless steel ones. After a couple of years they can start to degrade inside and add a lot of TDS back into the water. Probably a lot of iron too considering most of them are made out of steel.

    My old setup at a TDS meter on the output of the RO which went to the storage tank. But water from the tank to whatever I needed water for didn't have a meter. Took me a while to figure out the tank was bad. I replaced it with a stainless steel tank.
     
  14. Greybeard

    Greybeard Valuable Member R2R Supporter Reef Squad R2R Excellence Award Build Thread Contributor

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    The photo Mckinleyw posted is close to what I have.

    Incoming water, sediment, 5mic carbon, 1mic carbon, RO, Permeate pump. It splits from there. One line, with a one way valve so my stored water won't back up into the DI system when it's running, feeds a 5g pressure tank, with outlets at the faucet and ice maker. The other line runs to a 2 stage DI, and on to my sump room, feeding the ATO system and mixing station.

    The premeate pump keeps the pressure in the 5g tank equal to incoming water pressure, about 60psi. Also eliminates the need for an ASOV... a device I've come to dislike for their unreliability.
     
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  15. mckinleyw

    mckinleyw AIRBORNE REEFER R2R Supporter Reef Tank 365 Tampa Bay Reef Keepers Partner Member 2018 Build Thread Contributor

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    could you give me idea where the best placement of the permeate pump would be?
     
  16. Greybeard

    Greybeard Valuable Member R2R Supporter Reef Squad R2R Excellence Award Build Thread Contributor

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    Premeate pump needs to go after your RO membrane. They're pretty much worthless without an RO storage tank... the idea behind them is to equalize outgoing pressure to incoming pressure. Your DI carts don't need high pressure... but if you're feeding a modern icemaker or in fridge chilled water system, it does need pressure, and a constant source of it. That's why a premeate pump and a pressure storage tank. As an added bonus, once pressure is equal, a premeate pump will shut off both clean and waste water flowing from the RO membrane. No need for a separate ASOV.

    There are 4 ports on a premeate pump...

    Clean In - from RO membrane clean out
    Clean Out - to RO storage
    Waste in - from RO waste out
    Waste Out - to drain, etc.
     
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  17. mckinleyw

    mckinleyw AIRBORNE REEFER R2R Supporter Reef Tank 365 Tampa Bay Reef Keepers Partner Member 2018 Build Thread Contributor

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    Thank you @Greybeard I will put it after the tee that goes to the di and have it only run to the pressure tank and faucet. Does this sound right?
     
  18. Greybeard

    Greybeard Valuable Member R2R Supporter Reef Squad R2R Excellence Award Build Thread Contributor

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    Hm. Not sure I'm grasping your plan, but you want free flow from the RO membrane, both clean and waste sides to the premeate pump.

    Premeate pump needs to be before any inline check valve that you have on the line that runs to the pressure tank. Otherwise, it wouldn't run when the pressure tank is full, even if you're trying to get water through your DI cart. The inline check valve is a good thing... keep you from getting stored, pressurized water pouring through your DI cartridges when you open the valve at your mixing station. Too much flow through your DI cartridges... but you want the premeate pump before that valve.
     
  19. mckinleyw

    mckinleyw AIRBORNE REEFER R2R Supporter Reef Tank 365 Tampa Bay Reef Keepers Partner Member 2018 Build Thread Contributor

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    So i think i have this right. Permeate pump after ro. To a tee that goes to di, and a one way valve to pressure tank abd faucet. Im sorry. I want my rodi to stay full and i would like ro available at faucet always.
     
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  20. AquaFX

    AquaFX AquaFX R2R Supporter Gold Sponsor

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    Most pressure tanks are lined with a rubber bladder, unless you are referring to something else then what I am thinking of. But the small Bladder tanks made for RO should not let the water have any contact with any metal
     
    Last edited: Feb 21, 2018
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