RODI Filter Upgrade to Help

[kboogie]

I’m not sure if there is a gap of some sort in the duct work that would allow for running a waterline. I have to go by what the AC guys and my contractor tell me. I don’t do tight dark spaces.

No in the actual duct

That would be interesting. I don’t know how they fish items through the duct making all those turns without piercing the duct. I’m not sure the juice is worth the squeeze but I’ll research because you never know.

 

[kboogie]

I completed my upgrade. I added the second membrane in series and added a AquaticLife Smart Buddies 200GPD booster system. I went with the Smart Buddie because the reviews were good and it had a short delivery time compared to the other units.

I ran the second membrane with a 100GPD membrane for a few days while I waited for the booster pump. My input pressure is 64 PSI, so I figured it should be OK, not great, but OK. My TDS coming out of the membrane went up from 6 to 7. My main membrane is old and needs to be replaced. I did see noticable increase in flow, but didn't measure because it wasn't impressive.

The Smart Buddie arrived last night, so I added it and replaced the membranes with 200GPD membranes. My input pressure while the valve is closed and the pump is running get up to about 84 PSI before the auto shut off kicks in. When running, the pressure is 72 PSI. I was surprised that my TDS out of the membranes was still 6 to 7. I am now getting impressive flow. I did a test, and it takes an average 4:50 to fill a one-gallon jug (12 gallons an hour) and this is waiting a few minutes for the initial purge, so it is not assisted by excess pressure build-up.

Overall I'm satisfied. I do wish I could increase the operating pressure to 80+ PSI, as I feel that would drop my output TDS and get me over 300GPD.

I noticed that after a few days of break-in, my TDS coming out of the membranes is 4 TDS, which is great, all things considered. I also noticed my operating/working pressure is up as well. It is now 78 PSI vs 72 PSI, where it was before. I think the increased pressure is tied to an increase in my supply side pressure from 64 PSI to 72 PSI. I have an email to Aquatic Life to see if they have a way to adjust pressure.

 

[UncommonSense]

I noticed that after a few days of break-in, my TDS coming out of the membranes is 4 TDS, which is great, all things considered. I also noticed my operating/working pressure is up as well. It is now 78 PSI vs 72 PSI, where it was before. I think the increased pressure is tied to an increase in my supply side pressure from 64 PSI to 72 PSI. I have an email to Aquatic Life to see if they have a way to adjust pressure.

It sounds like you’re tapped out on flow already if your booster pump is only providing 6-8psi of additional system pressure!

I’m accustomed to seeing 20-30PSI gains, with the pumps being able to reach well over +40PSI vs. source!

(it could theoretically be a factory adjustment issue, too… So it’s still good that you’re checking on pressure adjustability!)

 

[kboogie]

It sounds like you’re tapped out on flow already if your booster pump is only providing 6-8psi of additional system pressure!

I’m accustomed to seeing 20-30PSI gains, with the pumps being able to reach well over +40PSI vs. source!

(it could theoretically be a factory adjustment issue, too… So it’s still good that you’re checking on pressure adjustability!)

Prior to the booster pump, my operating/working pressure was 54 to 64 PSI.

I also noticed that with the booster pump, the supply side operating/working pressure is in the high 40s.

 

[UncommonSense]

Prior to the booster pump, my operating/working pressure was 54 to 64 PSI.

I also noticed that with the booster pump, the supply side operating/working pressure is in the high 40s.

Huh… odd…

Refresh my memory?

— Is the system supplied with 1/4” RO line?

— How did you adapt from home plumbing to the RO supply line?

(I’m looking for flow restriction)

 

[kboogie]

Huh… odd…

Refresh my memory?

— Is the system supplied with 1/4” RO line?

— How did you adapt from home plumbing to the RO supply line?

(I’m looking for flow restriction)

I'm using a T off my washer cold water input using the standard hose connection. I have a standard hose to 1/4 adaptor. I hope that makes sense. I want to change that to a 3/8, at least up to a few inches before the booster, which has a 1/4 input.

 

[UncommonSense]

I'm using a T off my washer cold water input using the standard hose connection. I have a standard hose to 1/4 adaptor. I hope that makes sense. I want to change that to a 3/8, at least up to a few inches before the booster, which has a 1/4 input.

Ah! That does make sense!

Yeah I think your pressure loss on the city side is coming from frictional losses in the small ID tubing!

The rest of the pressure loss would be on the higher pressure post-booster pump plumbing, which FLOWS better than without booster, but still not nearly as well as it should be! (The now larger waste line flow restrictor is likely also compounding this frictional flow loss problem!)

(for context, your system is producing a gallon of product water In >5mins… this equates to nearly 300GPD product water output capacity! — I’m really getting to the working limits of 1/4” tubing running 240GPD w/ a smaller waste line flow restrictor than yours!)

 

[kboogie]

Ah! That does make sense!

Yeah I think your pressure loss on the city side is coming from frictional losses in the small ID tubing!

The rest of the pressure loss would be on the higher pressure post-booster pump plumbing, which FLOWS better than without booster, but still not nearly as well as it should be! (The now larger waste line flow restrictor is likely also compounding this frictional flow loss problem!)

(for context, your system is producing a gallon of product water In >5mins… this equates to nearly 300GPD product water output capacity! — I’m really getting to the working limits of 1/4” tubing running 240GPD w/ a smaller waste line flow restrictor than yours!)

Got it. That is also what I figured.

 

[kboogie]

My parts arrived and I did my first tubing upgrade which was making my supply tubing 3/8” to the “T” where my sensor probe connects. That is 10 feet of 3/8” tubing and 8” of 1/4” after the T. Doing that upgrade had a meaning full impact on operating pressure into the booster pump. Before my operating pressure was around 45 PSI. Now it is 58 to 60 PSI. Also, my pressure after the booster into the membrane went up from between 72 and 78 to between 80 and 82. This increased pressure has also dropped my TDS going into my DI stage for 4 to 3. I’m still filling a gallon container in just under 5 minutes is good but ai was expecting a small increase here. With all that said I feel the TDS drop is a victory.

Next I am going to upgrade the output of the DI stage to 3/8” tubing which wish a 30 to 40 foot run.

 

[UncommonSense]

My parts arrived and I did my first tubing upgrade which was making my supply tubing 3/8” to the “T” where my sensor probe connects. That is 10 feet of 3/8” tubing and 8” of 1/4” after the T. Doing that upgrade had a meaning full impact on operating pressure into the booster pump. Before my operating pressure was around 45 PSI. Now it is 58 to 60 PSI. Also, my pressure after the booster into the membrane went up from between 72 and 78 to between 80 and 82. This increased pressure has also dropped my TDS going into my DI stage for 4 to 3. I’m still filling a gallon container in just under 5 minutes is good but ai was expecting a small increase here. With all that said I feel the TDS drop is a victory.

This is excellent empirical info for anyone else following in your footsteps!

Next I am going to upgrade the output of the DI stage to 3/8” tubing which wish a 30 to 40 foot run.

This will probably help a bit, you can test by drawing and timing a gallon of water from a short length of 1/4” tubing right next to the RODI, reducing frictional flow loss from the current 30-40ft run!

My thoughts on the supply side of the system:

keeping in mind that your waste water line is going to add additional flow demand you don’t see on the product water side of the system:

If you’re having trouble maintaining 85-90psi pre-membranes, you can take a look-see at other supply side flow restrictions like the ASO valve, membrane supply side 1/8’ NPT elbow, and sensor tee!

Edit:

3/8”x3/8”x1/4” Sensor tee upgrade, JG part # PI301208S-US

John Guest Reducing Tee - 3/8 x 3/8 x 1/4

The John Guest reducing tee makes connecting OD tubing sizes quick and easy. Manufactured in gray acetal with food grade nitrile O-ring, these fittings are suitable for food, beverage, and potable liquids. They are also suitable for air and inert gases therefore can be used for CO2 and nitrogen...

www.freshwatersystems.com

 

[Buckeye Hydro]

Hi guys - we have actual sensor tees with double orings to seal against sensor probes. Single orings tees like those mentioned above have trouble sealing the probe stems. Fun fact to know and tell: the probes are not actually 0.25" in diameter!

Tee Quick Connect

At Buckeye Hydro we specialize in providing the highest quality water filtration systems and accessories for every potential need.

www.buckeyehydro.com

 

[UncommonSense]

Hi guys - we have actual sensor tees with double orings to seal against sensor probes. Single orings tees like those mentioned above have trouble sealing the probe stems. Fun fact to know and tell: the probes are not actually 0.25" in diameter!

Tee Quick Connect

At Buckeye Hydro we specialize in providing the highest quality water filtration systems and accessories for every potential need.

www.buckeyehydro.com

I actually just ran the flow calculator on @Buckeye Hydro ’s site, and confirmed that I am indeed at the flow limits of 1/4” tubing as well!

I run two of these membranes in series, and get 230-240gpd of product… so, I’m down around 24-34GPD from target…

I guess I’ll be increasing my RODI supply plumbing to 3/8”, too…

— hopefully this info serves to help others along the way!

 

[kboogie]

I actually just ran the flow calculator on @Buckeye Hydro ’s site, and confirmed that I am indeed at the flow limits of 1/4” tubing as well!

I run two of these membranes in series, and get 230-240gpd of product… so, I’m down around 24-34GPD from target…

I guess I’ll be increasing my RODI supply plumbing to 3/8”, too…

— hopefully this info serves to help others along the way!

I need to look at that calculator. I have some more upgrades to do. I've been very busy. I want to find a 3/8 3-way valve. My unit has one that is part of the carbon block flush process. Might hack around this because I won't need to replace my carbon block for a year or so.

 

[UncommonSense]

I want to find a 3/8 3-way valve. My unit has one that is part of the carbon block flush process. Might hack around this because I won't need to replace my carbon block for a year or so.

Here ya go!

3-Way Valve

At Buckeye Hydro we specialize in providing the highest quality water filtration systems and accessories for every potential need.

www.buckeyehydro.com

 

[kboogie]

I need to look at that calculator. I have some more upgrades to do. I've been very busy. I want to find a 3/8 3-way valve. My unit has one that is part of the carbon block flush process. Might hack around this because I won't need to replace my carbon block for a year or so.

Here ya go!

3-Way Valve

At Buckeye Hydro we specialize in providing the highest quality water filtration systems and accessories for every potential need.

www.buckeyehydro.com

Thank you for the assistance. I just placed the order!!

 

[kboogie]

Thank you for the assistance. I just placed the order!!

Here ya go!

3-Way Valve

At Buckeye Hydro we specialize in providing the highest quality water filtration systems and accessories for every potential need.

www.buckeyehydro.com

The value arrived today. I am wondering if there is something special you have to do to make the valve 3/8. The connections are clearly 1/4 OD. I checked the site, and it says "for 1/4 or 3/8 quick connect", so I'm assuming there is something you remove to make it 3/8 connections? There is no option to select a specific size on the website, so I'm assuming it is some type of universal convertible part. Thoughts?

 

[UncommonSense]

The value arrived today. I am wondering if there is something special you have to do to make the valve 3/8. The connections are clearly 1/4 OD. I checked the site, and it says "for 1/4 or 3/8 quick connect", so I'm assuming there is something you remove to make it 3/8 connections? There is no option to select a specific size on the website, so I'm assuming it is some type of universal convertible part. Thoughts?

Well that’s odd! I’ve never seen one like that before…

@Buckeye Hydro , would you care to offer some professional insights on this diverter valves implementation?

 

[Buckeye Hydro]

Website glitch. There are supposed to be radio buttons on that page to choose 3/8 or 1/4. Please give us a call and we'll make it right!

 

[kboogie]

Website glitch. There are supposed to be radio buttons on that page to choose 3/8 or 1/4. Please give us a call and we'll make it right!

Will do. Thank you!!

 

[kboogie]

I just got off the phone with Russ over at @Buckeye Hydro. He is a great guy, fantastic customer service, and was so happy to share his knowledge, allowing me to become more educated about RO systems.

We are lucky to have Russ supporting us. I look forward to being a long-term customer of Russ.