RODI HELP

[Griff]

i changed out all the filters, membrane, and Di resin.

Before changing it out total tds before hitting Di resin was 2. It's been running for two hours now and it's still reading 20 before hitting the resin!

I read the instructions on brs website and it said I should only have to run for an hour before its working normally.

Thoughts?

 

[AllSignsPointToFish]

Are all of the filter housings tight? If not, water could be internally bypassing some of the filtration media.

 

[Griff]

I tightened them with the wrench that came with it. No leaks.

 

[Griff]

Should I take everything apart rinse and reinstall?

Could I have packed my Di resin to tight?

Do you think it's a seal?

Any hep would be appreciated. I really need to do a water change tomorrow or next day at the latest.

 

[AZDesertRat]

New RO membranes contain preservatives. The hour is sjust an estimate.
The proper way to install new filters is to remove all the old filters and membrane then wash all the housings in warm soapy water, rinse well then reassemble everything minus the filters and membrane and run a wek bleach solution through it to disinfect the system. A couple of capfulls of bleach, no more and no less, in the first sediment filter housing is sufficient. Fill the housings and let it stand full for several minutes before flushing it out until the chlorine smell is gone.
Now install only the sediment filter, disconnect the line between the carbon block and the RO housing and stick it in the sink or a bucket. Run this for several minutes to flush the glues and binders out so they do not foul the carbon block pores. Next install the carbon block, or only the first if you have two (which I do not recommend) and again run the system to the drain for several minutes to flush the carbon dust or fines out so they don't foul the new RO membrane. Repeat if you have two carbon or just get rid of one carbon altogether and run a single 0.5 micron carbon block as long as you have an equal sized or smaller sediment filter to protect it.
Install the RO membrane making sure it is seated correctly. Reconnect the line from the carbon to the RO and run the system for a minimum of 3-5 gallons while using your handheld TDS meter to monitor the RO only TDS. Once this drops to about 2-3% of the incoming TDS you are ready to install the DI. Install the new DI and rinse it up for approximately 1/2 to 1 gallon or two to three bed volumes.

You are ready to make water. First check and adjust your new flow restrictor which you should always purchase with a new RO membrane so it is the correct waste ratio for your water conditions. Never assume the waste is correct as it rarely is out of the box. Now while making RO/DI check and record some baseline readings so you have some historical reference to look back on. Tap, RO only and RO/DI TDS, water pressure and temperature and actual measured waste ratio are good to start with. It is also good to know the calcium carbonate hardness of your water which you use to determine what your waste ratio should be set at. Hard water and high TDS need 4:1 waste ratio if you expect the membrane to function properly and last very long. 3:1 works if you have soft to moderately hard water and normal (250 or less) TDS at the tap. 2.5 or 2:1 ONLY works if you have soft water and lower than normal TDS, don't let anyone tell you any different.

And please find a better vendor for your RO supplies who actually understands RO and DI and has some experience in the industry. There are many vendors on the reef forums who specialize in RO, not chemicals which I love BRS for, and have decades and decades of experience and knowledge. BRS needs to stick to what they do best, chemicals.

 

[twilliard]

New RO membranes contain preservatives. The hour is sjust an estimate.
The proper way to install new filters is to remove all the old filters and membrane then wash all the housings in warm soapy water, rinse well then reassemble everything minus the filters and membrane and run a wek bleach solution through it to disinfect the system. A couple of capfulls of bleach, no more and no less, in the first sediment filter housing is sufficient. Fill the housings and let it stand full for several minutes before flushing it out until the chlorine smell is gone.
Now install only the sediment filter, disconnect the line between the carbon block and the RO housing and stick it in the sink or a bucket. Run this for several minutes to flush the glues and binders out so they do not foul the carbon block pores. Next install the carbon block, or only the first if you have two (which I do not recommend) and again run the system to the drain for several minutes to flush the carbon dust or fines out so they don't foul the new RO membrane. Repeat if you have two carbon or just get rid of one carbon altogether and run a single 0.5 micron carbon block as long as you have an equal sized or smaller sediment filter to protect it.
Install the RO membrane making sure it is seated correctly. Reconnect the line from the carbon to the RO and run the system for a minimum of 3-5 gallons while using your handheld TDS meter to monitor the RO only TDS. Once this drops to about 2-3% of the incoming TDS you are ready to install the DI. Install the new DI and rinse it up for approximately 1/2 to 1 gallon or two to three bed volumes.

You are ready to make water. First check and adjust your new flow restrictor which you should always purchase with a new RO membrane so it is the correct waste ratio for your water conditions. Never assume the waste is correct as it rarely is out of the box. Now while making RO/DI check and record some baseline readings so you have some historical reference to look back on. Tap, RO only and RO/DI TDS, water pressure and temperature and actual measured waste ratio are good to start with. It is also good to know the calcium carbonate hardness of your water which you use to determine what your waste ratio should be set at. Hard water and high TDS need 4:1 waste ratio if you expect the membrane to function properly and last very long. 3:1 works if you have soft to moderately hard water and normal (250 or less) TDS at the tap. 2.5 or 2:1 ONLY works if you have soft water and lower than normal TDS, don't let anyone tell you any different.

And please find a better vendor for your RO supplies who actually understands RO and DI and has some experience in the industry. There are many vendors on the reef forums who specialize in RO, not chemicals which I love BRS for, and have decades and decades of experience and knowledge. BRS needs to stick to what they do best, chemicals.

Where are your stickies!

 

[Griff]

Do you think I've ruined my new supplies running for 4 hours not following this process?

 

[Griff]

If I go disassemble everything and follow those steps will it work?

 

[AZDesertRat]

No you have not ruined anything and it's too late to follow my directions.
You may have shortened the life of everything a little but what is done is done. No big deal but if you are looking at maximum filter life and lowest cost of ownership then it has changed a little. Next time you change the filters though look up my posts on the subject and it may save you some money and give you better water quality. A little extra effort upfront can make a big difference long term. Things like adjusting your waste ratio to fit your exact water conditions and using the correct micron range and absolute or near absolute versus nominal rated filters makes a big difference. Not all RO/DI components or vendors are the same.

 

[Griff]

The original RODI was BRS and only released 2 tds. I'm not comfortable putting 10 tds through my Di resin. If I empty all the canisters rinse and reuse should I expect the tds to drop?

Or should I just keep running the water till it hits 0-2 tds

 

[AZDesertRat]

Keep running it, it takes time to season a membrane. Remove the DI cartridge until you are comfortable with the RO TDS so you don't exhaust the resin.

 

[ngvu1]

Can the carbon block screw up the membrane already? I remember flushing new carbon block is always a Pain specially the cheap kind. The water coming out in the first few gallons is always very dark....Imagine all that black stuff going to the membrane!

 

[AZDesertRat]

I doubt it.
Have you measured your waste ratio?
What is your tap TDS and RO only TDS after 10-15 minutes running?
What is your water temperature and water pressure? Are you using hard or soft water?

 

[Waterjockey]

New RO membranes contain preservatives. The hour is sjust an estimate.
The proper way to install new filters is to remove all the old filters and membrane then wash all the housings in warm soapy water, rinse well then reassemble everything minus the filters and membrane and run a wek bleach solution through it to disinfect the system. A couple of capfulls of bleach, no more and no less, in the first sediment filter housing is sufficient. Fill the housings and let it stand full for several minutes before flushing it out until the chlorine smell is gone.
Now install only the sediment filter, disconnect the line between the carbon block and the RO housing and stick it in the sink or a bucket. Run this for several minutes to flush the glues and binders out so they do not foul the carbon block pores. Next install the carbon block, or only the first if you have two (which I do not recommend) and again run the system to the drain for several minutes to flush the carbon dust or fines out so they don't foul the new RO membrane. Repeat if you have two carbon or just get rid of one carbon altogether and run a single 0.5 micron carbon block as long as you have an equal sized or smaller sediment filter to protect it.
Install the RO membrane making sure it is seated correctly. Reconnect the line from the carbon to the RO and run the system for a minimum of 3-5 gallons while using your handheld TDS meter to monitor the RO only TDS. Once this drops to about 2-3% of the incoming TDS you are ready to install the DI. Install the new DI and rinse it up for approximately 1/2 to 1 gallon or two to three bed volumes.

You are ready to make water. First check and adjust your new flow restrictor which you should always purchase with a new RO membrane so it is the correct waste ratio for your water conditions. Never assume the waste is correct as it rarely is out of the box. Now while making RO/DI check and record some baseline readings so you have some historical reference to look back on. Tap, RO only and RO/DI TDS, water pressure and temperature and actual measured waste ratio are good to start with. It is also good to know the calcium carbonate hardness of your water which you use to determine what your waste ratio should be set at. Hard water and high TDS need 4:1 waste ratio if you expect the membrane to function properly and last very long. 3:1 works if you have soft to moderately hard water and normal (250 or less) TDS at the tap. 2.5 or 2:1 ONLY works if you have soft water and lower than normal TDS, don't let anyone tell you any different.

And please find a better vendor for your RO supplies who actually understands RO and DI and has some experience in the industry. There are many vendors on the reef forums who specialize in RO, not chemicals which I love BRS for, and have decades and decades of experience and knowledge. BRS needs to stick to what they do best, chemicals.

That is the most concise and informative post I have ever seen on the subject. That needs to be a sticky!

 

[Griff]

I agree with the sticky!

I turned on the water tonight and after 10 minutes I'm reading 2 tds before it hits Di resin. I can live with that. I will definitely be following the above method next time I change filters.

To give you more info about my system.
Tds out of the tap is 70-80 tds. Not sure about the pressure. Flow restrictor says 550 on it. Water temp is 50-60 degrees.

 

[AZDesertRat]

Measure the waste ratio, never ever assume it is correct as it rarely is.
You really want to know exact numbers for TDS, temperature, pressure and waste ratio as all have a direct impact on how well or poorly your system operates.