drivingmecrazy
Active Member
If you have a good algae scrubber then it would be safe to use.
Mybdi resin depletes quickly because if excess C02 so I regenerate my DI resin.
Mybdi resin depletes quickly because if excess C02 so I regenerate my DI resin.
scottedontknow
Well-Known Member
im sorry but thats not good advice. If that 3 TDS is lead or copper a "good algae scrubber" won't help.
also you cant simply "regenreate" DI resin.... if using mixed bed resin you would have to seperate cations and anions. the cost alone to even try and do this would be crazy. even using seperate DI resin (cation/anion) would only make sense to just replace......
drivingmecrazy
Active Member
I would agree with you on the lead or copper. I did not think about that I guess you would have to know whats in your local water.
However I don't have any issue with regenerating DI resin at all. I do separate the anions and cations. I save alot of money doing this I have a small amount of time in it.
There are plenty of DIY forums for this process and I have never had an issue.
I keep all types of corals, sps, zoanthids,
Lps and tge tds in my rodi water is always at zero until the resin runs out.
I am in the process of designing a degasser that will prevent the C02 from depleting the resin so quickly.
I would use the water for the tank. 3 tds is like using water right before it hits the DI stage. It’s not 100 percent but for a one time thing,it’ll do lassy... it’ll do
piranhaman00
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I think an important thing to remember is that 3 tds does not always equal 3 tds. Saying that 3 tds is like using water right before the DI stage is not really true.
I could put 100 tds water from source A into a reef tank and be perfectly fine but putting 1 tds from source B into the same tank could kill everything. It depends what those tds actually are. Any TDS should be considered bad and it is a complete gamble. TDS doesnt mean anything, imo a tds reader should be used to show that you are good (0tds) or bad (anything above 0tds).
Like I said it earlier post, adding prime should help with anything that is deadly (I believe) but you should not get into this practice.
I could put 100 tds water from source A into a reef tank and be perfectly fine but putting 1 tds from source B into the same tank could kill everything. It depends what those tds actually are. Any TDS should be considered bad and it is a complete gamble. TDS doesnt mean anything, imo a tds reader should be used to show that you are good (0tds) or bad (anything above 0tds).
Like I said it earlier post, adding prime should help with anything that is deadly (I believe) but you should not get into this practice.
scottedontknow
Well-Known Member
im not saying it cant be done. but the work involved and the chemicals (most used: Lye and muradic acid) arnt exactly fun to work with. for the vast majority of us... doing that much work, dealing with chemicals (what could ever go wrong), just isnt worth it. $15 for the color changing cation/anion resin is great.
as for your C02 issues... make a large amount of RO water (skipping the DI unit all together) run an air stone in the RO water(day or two) then use a small pump (or dosing pump) to pass that water through the DI resin only. THIS will save your resin.
drivingmecrazy
Active Member
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