Should I replace my skimmer?

[Wonkabar]

I have recently switched to using only a skimmer for filtration my 220g heavy bioload SPS tank. It seems that my regal200ss is potentially undersized.

-how would I know if I need a bigger skimmer?

-what skimmer would you recommend for the space that I currently have. 13x11

 

[Dan_P]

I have recently switched to using only a skimmer for filtration my 220g heavy bioload SPS tank. It seems that my regal200ss is potentially undersized.

-how would I know if I need a bigger skimmer?

-what skimmer would you recommend for the space that I currently have. 13x11

Why do you think the current skimmer isn’t adequate?

 

[atoll]

Given some run with no skimmer at all quite successfully then I doubt a new skimmer will do much for your tank. Some run undersized skimmers on purpose so as not to strip too much out of the water.

 

[Wonkabar]

I have recently switched to using only a skimmer for filtration my 220g heavy bioload SPS tank. It seems that my regal200ss is potentially undersized.

-how would I know if I need a bigger skimmer?

-what skimmer would you recommend for the space that I currently have. 13x11

Why do you think the current skimmer isn’t adequate?

Mostly because I am having a very hard time lowering my nutrients

 

[Dom]

Mostly because I am having a very hard time lowering my nutrients

Is the skimmer your only means of nutrient export?

 

[Wonkabar]

Mostly because I am having a very hard time lowering my nutrients

Is the skimmer your only means of nutrient export?

I also have a reef mat that I would like to remove. That’s why I am thinking of getting a bigger skimmer

 

[atoll]

I also have a reef mat that I would like to remove. That’s why I am thinking of getting a bigger skimmer

Always a good idea to put the full story up first before asking questions. That way it will save people answering unbeknownst to half the information given.

 

[Dom]

Mostly because I am having a very hard time lowering my nutrients

What are your numbers?

 

[Wonkabar]

Always a good idea to put the full story up first before asking questions. That way it will save people answering unbeknownst to half the information given.

you are right I should have been more thorough. I made the post while I had my reefmat out of service hoping to take it off the tank. Due to my phosphates increasing back up to .35 I put it back on thinking maybe my skimmer isnt big enough.

 

[Wonkabar]

What are your numbers?

Nitrate 17.6
Phos .35

 

[bushdoc]

Although it looks as if your skimmer is recommended for even larger tanks than your it still might be undersized. I would first utilize other methods of nutrients export like carbon dosing and phosphate removal with GFO or Lantanum or algae reactor.
BTW how old is your tank?

 

[Wonkabar]

Although it looks as if your skimmer is recommended for even larger tanks than your it still might be undersized. I would first utilize other methods of nutrients export like carbon dosing and phosphate removal with GFO or Lantanum or algae reactor.
BTW how old is your tank?

I am looking into lanthanum now. Tank is 7 months old so trying to just let it work itself out as much as possible.

 

[bushdoc]

Relatively young tank, so don’t go overboard, give it some time

 

[minus9]

What's your maintenance routine? Are you changing water? This whole idea about not changing water and just dosing trace elements has people running into problems, especially people who don't have the experience to deal with tank issue (not saying this is your problem, but a general observation). Also, are there any issues going on with your current levels? Some people get stuck in the idea that their nutrients have to be in a certain range or number and simply don't look at the tank as a whole. Are you using live rock and sand or did you start with dry rock?

 

[Dom]

Nitrate 17.6
Phos .35

PO4 could use some attention.

But I'd be okay with Nitrates at 17.6. How low would you like to get it?

 

[Wonkabar]

What's your maintenance routine? Are you changing water? This whole idea about not changing water and just dosing trace elements has people running into problems, especially people who don't have the experience to deal with tank issue (not saying this is your problem, but a general observation). Also, are there any issues going on with your current levels? Some people get stuck in the idea that their nutrients have to be in a certain range or number and simply don't look at the tank as a whole. Are you using live rock and sand or did you start with dry rock?

I do a 15% water change every week up until a few weeks ago when I switched to modern reef. They recommended I do the water change every 2 weeks instead of every week so that is what I have been doing and plan to continue doing. Main issue is they recommend no filtration other than a skimmer which is why I want to pull the reefmat so I can really let the biome of the tank build up. Nervous about my po4 getting out of control in order to do that. I have increased my light intensity and schedule as well as decreased feeding as far as I am comfortable going already in the hopes that will help.

 

[Wonkabar]

PO4 could use some attention.

But I'd be okay with Nitrates at 17.6. How low would you like to get it?

Nitrates are fine where they are. I would like to get po4 down to .1-.2

 

[BeanAnimal]

I guess "biome" is the new buzzword "trend" for 2026.

Can you answer a few questions before people starting throwing advice around left and right?

What exact problem are you trying to solve other than test results not being some certain number and where did the target numbers you wish to achieve come from?

What make you think that either your N and P test results indicate a problem?

This tank is less than a year old. How many "methods" have you tried and why change?

What part of "modern reef" system are you attempting to use and why?

What makes you think that LaCL needs to be used?

 

[Wonkabar]

I guess "biome" is the new buzzword "trend" for 2026.

Can you answer a few questions before people starting throwing advice around left and right?

What exact problem are you trying to solve other than test results not being some certain number and where did the target numbers you wish to achieve come from?

What make you think that either your N and P test results indicate a problem?

This tank is less than a year old. How many "methods" have you tried and why change?

What part of "modern reef" system are you attempting to use and why?

What makes you think that LaCL needs to be used?

Thanks for the reply and happy to answer.

- my tank seems to either be consuming or using up nitrate at a different rate than phosphate, which seems to be causing my “ratio” to be off.

-I wouldn’t necessarily say problem however I can’t seem to get po4 numbers in line with modern reefs recommended ranges.

- “modern reef” is the second method I have tried. I started up the tank using kalk/esv 2 part and supplementing trace with reef moonshiners. I have been using that method until a few weeks ago when I switched to modern reef. I switched to try to put together an easier and more cost effective program for my tank.

- I am using the rks 4 part system along with complete reef food and Polypop. Based off of their published recommendations I am trying to remove ALL filtration and sterilization from my tank other than skimmer and UV. Since removing my rollermat my phosphates have been increasing a lot which I why I made this post.

-lacl seems like it would be the most exact method and easiest to incorporate.


Please let me know if you need anymore information and thanks.

 

[BeanAnimal]

Thanks for the reply and happy to answer.

Thanks, it will help get to the bottom of things. I will offer my opinion.

- my tank seems to either be consuming or using up nitrate at a different rate than phosphate, which seems to be causing my “ratio” to be off.

Let’s stat here. There is no “ratio” of N to P that needs to be kept. Organisms may consume N, P and C at some specific ratio, but as long as there are N, P, and C in the water column then their relative ratios don’t matter.

-I wouldn’t necessarily say problem however I can’t seem to get po4 numbers in line with modern reefs recommended ranges.

I am not sure what their “range” or reasoning is. While 0.35 may be “high” according to some people, it is not insanely high. So the question really is, are you having problems? Let’s move on for a moment though.

- “modern reef” is the second method I have tried. I started up the tank using kalk/esv 2 part and supplementing trace with reef moonshiners. I have been using that method until a few weeks ago when I switched to modern reef. I switched to try to put together an easier and more cost effective program for my tank.

Fair enough. My advice would be to keep it simple and stick with a method long term instead of hoping around. So, let’s discuss what you have chosen. I would advise making Alk (Ca,Mg are balanced doses in their system) your primary focus and avoid chasing trace numbers or specific N and P numbers. Personally, I would’t spend a penny on ICP unless there was an unexplained problem.

The modern reef base 4 part (it really is 3 part) dosing system appears to be designed to be balanced with already included trace, similar to Triton or TM balling with added A and K. So go with that, and feed the fish. See below.

with complete reef food and Polypop. Based off of their published recommendations I am trying to remove ALL filtration and sterilization from my tank other than skimmer and UV. Since removing my rollermat my phosphates have been increasing a lot which I why I made this post.

While I am not a fan of roller filters and only run a skimmer myself, it sounds to me like you have reduced export and increased organic input. It is reasonable for phosphate to rise.

My advice for a new tank? Feed the fish and they will feed the coral. Pouring in bottles of this and that means pouring in more bottles of something and other stuff to counteract the effects of this and that…

Sure, maybe something to settle into over a long period of time if “feeding the fish” is somehow deemed to not be enough. But you should start there and only there. That is, dosing major elements with the included trace and feeding the fish.

Let me explain: Going all-in with Modern Reef’s system means relying on carbon dosing for export and that means managing numerous variables. My advice for most people would be to reserve that level of mess for when all other measures to manage nutrients have hit a brick wall. Why take on the complexity based on promised delivery to the magic land of coral color and polyp extension when “simple” can get you there too?

In other words, use the easy button until it stops working. As time passes, learn what works and what doesn’t with slow changes and metered reactions to problems when they arise.

-lacl seems like it would be the most exact method and easiest to incorporate.

See above, there should be no need to use complex methods like this to manage nutrients in a young system. LaCl is an “I’m out of all reasonable options, what now” response. That may come years in, but shouldn’t be on the table with a new tank.

That is my take given my experience.

Good luck with the reef.