taylorjonl

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The video I saw clearing shows spikes in ammonia and the nitrate in minute # 11:28- keep watching.

Might want to give a watch again mate! I took all mine out. It's probably not going to hurt your corals but I like keeping my parameters right on the money.

They didn't test ammonia and as stated they said the tests were inconclusive so they were designing a new test. Also, BRS is one of the biggest proponent of Marine Pure, every video on them was nothing but positive.
 

bif24701

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Maybe we should be more understanding of FLSharkvictim, he is just afraid of things he can't see in the water.
 

andrew james

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Im being totally serious here, If any of you decide that your marine pure blocks are the cause of your problems I will pay shipping for you to send the blocks to me.
 

Leyth

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Well, now I have another issue to figure out. My wife came over to see the tank as I just added sand to it. First time she's cared to come look at it really. First thing she does is softly hop up and down right next to the tank to see how study it is. Waves were formed and you can tell the tank is swaying when she did it. She walks over to my 20 gallon and does the same thing and it barely started a wave motion indicating that it was much more sturdy. I'm not really sure what to do, any ideas? Here's a picture, you see I shimmed the whole front side because that's the side that was uneven. Right now a level shows the tank is perfectly level.

99f7b202e0301825ea7d1812bb125211.jpg
 

brett_schn

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Well, now I have another issue to figure out. My wife came over to see the tank as I just added sand to it. First time she's cared to come look at it really. First thing she does is softly hop up and down right next to the tank to see how study it is. Waves were formed and you can tell the tank is swaying when she did it. She walks over to my 20 gallon and does the same thing and it barely started a wave motion indicating that it was much more sturdy. I'm not really sure what to do, any ideas? Here's a picture, you see I shimmed the whole front side because that's the side that was uneven. Right now a level shows the tank is perfectly level.

99f7b202e0301825ea7d1812bb125211.jpg

Tell her because the Red Sea one is way over 700lb and the 20g is like 250lb
 

Old Glory

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Well, I set up the tank and stand this past weekend. I cleaned it up and now I am starting to piece together my setup. However, before I get it wet, I need to make sure that it's level and that my floor is actually going to hold it. So, I did my research, but I am still unsure what to do. I took a bunch of pictures, hopefully you guys can guide me to the right approach:

So first off, this is how I tested how level it is. The stand still has the rubber feet and we are directly on the hardwood floor.

Reefer1.jpg


Up close, this is how much it is off. I am not sure how to read that. I may need to buy a better level? What do you think?

Reefer2.jpg


Measuring inside the sump to ensure consistency in our leveling readings:

Reefer3.jpg


Here is the measure on the long side of the tank:

Reefer4.jpg


So with that being said, here are is my next concern, the topic that never ends. Will my aquarium fall through the floor one day? Yea I learned that is unlikely, but it can potentially sag your floor over time if your floor can't hold the weight. Well, I'd like your opinions on my research and observations from my situation. I have a basement below the tank and this is how the joists run. I wanted to run perpendicular, but we don't have a spot that makes sense to us. However, it is up against a concrete wall and then my research on these joists seem to show that this tank would not be an issue. It's a 350 if I forgot to mention that so 91 gallons total. Anyways, here are the pictures and my explanations:

Reefer5.JPG


So in the basement, this is directly under the front part of the tank. I used a laser measuring tool to measure the distance from the ground to this very spot. I marked both locations so I can get accurate readings in the future to measure and detect sagging.

Reefer6.jpg


Reefer7.JPG


I am pretty confident this is the guide for the floors my house has(house was built in 97): https://parr.com/PDFs/TJ-4000_ijoist_guide.pdf

It's difficult to understand for me, but I think I have the 110 TJI with a 11'7/8" depth. That says 1,560 Maximum Vertical Shear. I have no idea what that means, but I assuming thats the most weight that joist can hold across right? Now if I am right about that then I should still be fine because the concrete wall will be taking some of the weight anyways right? I feel like I'm in college again researching this stuff haha. Well, what do you guys think? Just hire an engineer or do you think I've been accurate with my research and taking the correct precautions? Can I get this dang thing wet before my wife makes me return it?!?! Thanks ahead for taking your time to read through my boring coral-less post.

Hi can you brace the floor under the tank? I put a 4x4 beam across the joists supported by steel lolly columns. Since your tank runs parralel I would use two 4x4s supported by a column on each end. I was told by my builder that my floor "should" support my tank (a 180) but I did not want to take any chances.
 

Reefltx

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How often do you guys clean the bubble trap sponge in the sump, or do you guys not use it at all?
 

ncaldwell

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How often do you guys clean the bubble trap sponge in the sump, or do you guys not use it at all?
I don't use it anymore, it got dirty too fast for me and then made a mess everyone I had to pull it out when all the junk came out anyway
 

Old Glory

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Wow there are some amazing tanks and sumps in this thread. Took me almost a week to read through all of the posts and there is some great info here thank you. Broadfield's sump is off the hook and he is a magician.

I am looking at a 425 or 525 xl (depending on what the wife will approve). I am downsizing from a 180 reef that I broke down because we are renovating our family room. I have been putting together equipment while the painting a renovations are done.

Here is what I have so far:
Rock curing in barrels - Pukani 65 lbs; Fiji 25lbs; Tonga shelf; Marco 20 lb. I have some cool pieces that I hope to scape into something that looks natural in the tank.I added some Biospira so hopefully the rock will have some good bacteria and be ready to go when I get the tank.
Sand - Tropic Eden Mesoflakes (aragonite crumbs, 2.7mm) 120 lbs
Skimmer - Reef Octopus ELITE 200SSS Space Saver with VarioS DC Pump
Power Heads - 2 VorTech MP40wQD QuietDrive
Return Pump - Vectra M1 DC (2000 GPH) DC pump
Ecotech Reeflink Controller
Heaters - 2 Finnex 500w titanium heaters
Lights - Still debating lights. My short list is Radion G4 30 Pros or Kessil A360W Tuna Blue. I like the controllability of the Radions but not the color separation disco effect. The Kessils lack the controllability but I like the shimmer and the idea of the Kessil logic. I don't need all the cool features but they are cool to have. I already have the VorTech MP40 and Vectra M1 pumps so linking the he lights to the controller would be cool. I am stuck on this one. Any opinions?

Doser - TBD
Controller - Most likely will get a Neptune Apex

Thanks for looking.
 

Thor2j

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Wow there are some amazing tanks and sumps in this thread. Took me almost a week to read through all of the posts and there is some great info here thank you. Broadfield's sump is off the hook and he is a magician.

I am looking at a 425 or 525 xl (depending on what the wife will approve). I am downsizing from a 180 reef that I broke down because we are renovating our family room. I have been putting together equipment while the painting a renovations are done.

Here is what I have so far:
Rock curing in barrels - Pukani 65 lbs; Fiji 25lbs; Tonga shelf; Marco 20 lb. I have some cool pieces that I hope to scape into something that looks natural in the tank.I added some Biospira so hopefully the rock will have some good bacteria and be ready to go when I get the tank.
Sand - Tropic Eden Mesoflakes (aragonite crumbs, 2.7mm) 120 lbs
Skimmer - Reef Octopus ELITE 200SSS Space Saver with VarioS DC Pump
Power Heads - 2 VorTech MP40wQD QuietDrive
Return Pump - Vectra M1 DC (2000 GPH) DC pump
Ecotech Reeflink Controller
Heaters - 2 Finnex 500w titanium heaters
Lights - Still debating lights. My short list is Radion G4 30 Pros or Kessil A360W Tuna Blue. I like the controllability of the Radions but not the color separation disco effect. The Kessils lack the controllability but I like the shimmer and the idea of the Kessil logic. I don't need all the cool features but they are cool to have. I already have the VorTech MP40 and Vectra M1 pumps so linking the he lights to the controller would be cool. I am stuck on this one. Any opinions?

Doser - TBD
Controller - Most likely will get a Neptune Apex

Thanks for looking.
I have 525xl with 2 AP700s. It's perfect. Had 3 360s, then 4, then switched to the AP700s. Night and day difference. Mainly with PAR reaching the sand.
 

Old Glory

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I have 525xl with 2 AP700s. It's perfect. Had 3 360s, then 4, then switched to the AP700s. Night and day difference. Mainly with PAR reaching the sand.

I was thinking about the AP700s. Though two may be tight on a 4 foot tank. Do you have pics?
 

Leyth

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Hi can you brace the floor under the tank? I put a 4x4 beam across the joists supported by steel lolly columns. Since your tank runs parralel I would use two 4x4s supported by a column on each end. I was told by my builder that my floor "should" support my tank (a 180) but I did not want to take any chances.

Fortunately, yes I think I can. We have drop ceilings in the basement so the joists are accessible. I think I am going to hire someone to come look at it and let them do that as I don't feel comfortable doing it myself. I just hope it's not going to be an issue that the tank is already filled with water lol. Thanks for your advice.
 

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