Smiddy's Reef 360 Peninsula

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rds85

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@Gablami I have walled the off the area due to the reasons above. Covered the tank. I feel this is the most realistic thing for my set up. I also think I see where that 10 ft rule came from. Humblefish's Option B quarantine method?
 

Gablami

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@Gablami I have walled the off the area due to the reasons above. Covered the tank. I feel this is the most realistic thing for my set up. I also think I see where that 10 ft rule came from. Humblefish's Option B quarantine method?
Nice! It was just a suggestion in case you hadn’t thought if it.

I had to look up what option B was. I’ve always done TTM, and I have not experimented with copper. I’m sure that both work, but I’ve had good results with TTM and I’ve seen the ich fall off the fish as I transfer them. I’ll probably continue doing TTM until I have reason to go otherwise.
 
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rds85

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Nice! It was just a suggestion in case you hadn’t thought if it.

I had to look up what option B was. I’ve always done TTM, and I have not experimented with copper. I’m sure that both work, but I’ve had good results with TTM and I’ve seen the ich fall off the fish as I transfer them. I’ll probably continue doing TTM until I have reason to go otherwise.


If it works for you don't change it!

I am not super concerned at the end of the day otherwise the paranoia might drive me nuts. I can always run carbon in the system to remove any residual copper which would be very minimal.
 

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Does your stand sit directly on the floor or did you put something in between. I am about to set up a 280 with a steel stand and was thinking I should put a piece of plywood or felt between the stand and the tile.
 
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Does your stand sit directly on the floor or did you put something in between. I am about to set up a 280 with a steel stand and was thinking I should put a piece of plywood or felt between the stand and the tile.

So the is the lay up:

Concrete slab ( isolated around the entire stand plus a few feet), Vinyl flooring plus a foot around the stand, the stand has for industrial leveling feet with urethane, then the stand itself.
 
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rds85

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Fuge has some life! Algae and pods are in. I honestly like the look of small amount of macros, to bad that will not be a long term thing.
Fuge 3.JPG
 
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Well a few weeks ago it looked like this ( copied from and old post)
"Currently ( Always subject to change) the must haves:
1) Achillies Tang
2) Powder Blue Tang
3) Ornate Leopard Wrasse
4) Watanabei Angelfish pair
5) Skunk Tilefish
6) Bimaculatus Anthias
7) Redtail Tamarin Wrasse
8) Pink Margin Fairy Wrasse
9) Copperband Butterfly "

Now I am removing the copperband, removing the pink margin wrasse. Replacing with Lineatus Wrasse and Regal Angle ( If I don't add any Acans)
 
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I think I have found a way to put a power head on the front end of the peninsula without having a magnet on the glass pane and not have a cord deep into the tank. Let me know your thoughts!


1) Utilize a maxspect gyre XF350 for its ability to be so close the the water surface. I have heard negative thing about these magnets on anything larger than 1/2" thick.
2) Utilize the double Eurobrace glass trim on my tank

Idea:
Build a bracket that places a piece of 1/2" acrylic approximately a 1/2" above the water. Attach the gyre to this bracket which will be approximately 4" into the tank from the front pane and submerged in the water approximately 1". This will ensure the cord is barley visible in the water. The pump will come across as "floating" in the tank.

Generation 1 of the design:
PowerHead Bracket 2.JPG
PowerHead Bracket 1.JPG

PowerHead Bracket 3.JPG


This is how it sits on the Eurobracing:
PowerHead Bracket 4.JPG
PowerHead Bracket 5.JPG



I did use a SLA 3D printer to create the angled bracket portion of this for generation 1 thinking I will change it and didn't want to waste the time making acrylic for this. I can 3D print a bracket design in 3 hours and without access to a mill I can easily make the bracket portion currently. I can make the bracket portion in a few pieces of acrylic and might do that when the final design is confirmed.

Also need to purchase the gyre itself since I created the bracket dimensions around it...

Generation 2 Ideas:
PowerHead Bracket 6.JPG

Build up a splash protection wall for the dry side magnet and maybe a removable top?

Anyone got any other ideas?
 

Gablami

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I’ve never owned a gyre before, so not sure how it will function so close to the surface. But this is an ingenious idea that should work. Much better than having the magnet on the viewing panel.
 

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That's an excellent idea! It's hard to come up with ideas to better that genius design. The only thing I can think of is make the pocket where the magnet will sit exact or near exact size as the magnet. Hope this bracket works for you, maybe you should submit a patent ;)
 

justingraham

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The new gyre magnets are huge and are slip resistance once it’s on there u have to force it off I have a 350 if u want me to take pics and measurements for you I Think the magnet can be sumbmerged as well I would put the acrylic at the water level or a tad below
 
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I’ve never owned a gyre before, so not sure how it will function so close to the surface. But this is an ingenious idea that should work. Much better than having the magnet on the viewing panel.

I have seen some videos of people having them submerged on a 0.5" into the water within minimal issues to none with the new XF350 deflectors. I agree so much better than magnet on viewing panel. I might have to make it sink lower and lower into the tank but only time will tell.

That's an excellent idea! It's hard to come up with ideas to better that genius design. The only thing I can think of is make the pocket where the magnet will sit exact or near exact size as the magnet. Hope this bracket works for you, maybe you should submit a patent ;)

I could denitaly make a pocket if I had access to mill! When COVID is no longer around I can get access to one and try it out. I hope the bracket works as well! I am not sure if can patent a bracket haha and it is custom for someone else'es pump design!
 
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The new gyre magnets are huge and are slip resistance once it’s on there u have to force it off I have a 350 if u want me to take pics and measurements for you I Think the magnet can be submerged as well I would put the acrylic at the water level or a tad below

I would definitely love some more real measurements if you don't mind. I am not sure how much to trust the manufacturers drawing.
Magnet dimensions mainly the dry side.
The big question I need answered is the dimension shown here not sure how true 1.5" diameter is:
PowerHead Bracket 7.JPG



This will help me re design the bracket part to add depth into the tank!
Have you confirmed in some way that the dry side magnet can be submerged??
 

justingraham

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I would definitely love some more real measurements if you don't mind. I am not sure how much to trust the manufacturers drawing.
Magnet dimensions mainly the dry side.
The big question I need answered is the dimension shown here not sure how true 1.5" diameter is:
PowerHead Bracket 7.JPG
BED0DBAA-ACBF-4124-B743-4764506056D0.jpeg
D1C609FD-36BB-42CC-AECB-B40C04140264.jpeg



This will help me re design the bracket part to add depth into the tank!
Have you confirmed in some way that the dry side magnet can be submerged??
BED0DBAA-ACBF-4124-B743-4764506056D0.jpeg
D1C609FD-36BB-42CC-AECB-B40C04140264.jpeg


I havnt confirmed it I just rember reading that it can be as people have them in their overflow box
 

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Absolutely fantastic build rds...just read the whole thing over a couple of beers here in California.

I am still in the planning stages of something similar and have been looking to use CDA as well (they quoted me in November of last year but I am still kicking ideas/specifics around...fantastic customer service though!). Some of the stuff you are doing is really giving me more ideas...so thanks! I'll definitely be sending some questions your way but one of the things I've been trying to problem solve is flow in this sort of tank (I'm thinking 84-90" for my build). Just saw your last couple of posts and I had just watched Rico's youtube on something very similar. Chances are you might have seen this already but in case you have not:

 
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Absolutely fantastic build rds...just read the while thing over a couple of beers here in California.

I am still in the planning stages of something similar and have been looking to use CDA as well (they quoted me in November of last year but I am still kicking ideas/specifics around...fantastic customer service though!). Some of the stuff you are doing is really giving me more ideas...so thanks! I'll definitely be sending some questions your way but one of the things I've been trying to problem solve is flow in this sort of tank (I'm thinking 84-90" for my build). Just saw your last couple of posts and I had just watched Rico's youtube on something very similar. Chances are you might have seen this already but in case you have not:




Thank you! I was born and raised in California.

I am very happy with the tank I received. It is hard to settle on all the little details. The second you have it set up you think of more things you wish to did, but that happens every time...

I more than happy to help you with any questions you have!

I have not seen that video till just now. Thank you for posting. The ideas are very similar, which is helping me justify it will work on the XF350! He does have the 280's which has the stronger magnets, but doesn't have the flow deflectors so he has to go deeper into the water. I will make sure to post mine if/when it works.
 
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I was able to get a Gyre this weekend.

I did end up making the bracket taller so the acrylic piece just touches the surface of the water.
I am pretty happy with how this turned out. No cord or magnets on the front pane.
Gyre Bracket 1.JPG

Gyre Bracket 2.JPG
Gyre Bracket 4.JPG

Gyre Bracket 3.JPG



Now I just need to play around with the modes to find out max flow I can use before vortex with air bubbles begin.
 

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