Sochting Oxydator Help

atoll

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Ordered a W model which hopefully will be with me today. This will go in my small 800litre pond. I bought it secondhand for a good price. Looking forward to putting it in. I already have a pond filter with 9w UV doing a good job of keeping the water clear. The W should add that extra sparkle to the water. The ponds only been set up 6 weeks and doing very well. We do have issues with herons here but I have 2 deterrents a trip wire and a rotating scarer. There was a heron in the garden which approached the pond but I inadvertently scared it off when I would have just liked to observed it. However it seems I have lost no fish to herons so hopefully that will continue to be the case.
Evening pic of said pond.
20190512_211907.jpeg
 

DarkTonio

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@najer @atoll @Lasse

Hello reefers!
First thank you for all the good advice here!
I have a 50g tank, mixed tank reef, and I am planning to add a Socthing oxydator type D.

I have two questions if I may:
1/ what % (3%, 6%? ) and number of reactors (1-2?) would you recomend for my tank ?
2/ I read some posts focusing on the danger of H2O2 for cleaner shrimps and especially the Lysmata. I am planning to add a Lysmata in my reef. Is it a bad idea beacause of the oxydator? Lysmata and Sochting Oxydator = incompatible ?

Regards,
 

Anthony Scholfield

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@najer @atoll @Lasse

Hello reefers!
First thank you for all the good advice here!
I have a 50g tank, mixed tank reef, and I am planning to add a Socthing oxydator type D.

I have two questions if I may:
1/ what % (3%, 6%? ) and number of reactors (1-2?) would you recomend for my tank ?
2/ I read some posts focusing on the danger of H2O2 for cleaner shrimps and especially the Lysmata. I am planning to add a Lysmata in my reef. Is it a bad idea beacause of the oxydator? Lysmata and Sochting Oxydator = incompatible ?

Regards,
I would suggest using the "a" model instead of the "d". Its my experience and opinion that the "d" model is poorly designed and has a likely hood of leaking the h2o2 in large amounts into the tank. The "a" model is a better design and would likely be better suited for your size system.
 

atoll

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I would suggest using the "a" model instead of the "d". Its my experience and opinion that the "d" model is poorly designed and has a likely hood of leaking the h2o2 in large amounts into the tank. The "a" model is a better design and would likely be better suited for your size system.
Agree and use 6% with 2 catalysts.
Although I don't currently have any cleaner shrimps in my tank I have in the past and never had an issue with them using Oxydators.
 

jhuntstl

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I would suggest using the "a" model instead of the "d". Its my experience and opinion that the "d" model is poorly designed and has a likely hood of leaking the h2o2 in large amounts into the tank. The "a" model is a better design and would likely be better suited for your size system.
Large scale leaking due to design failure or user error? I'll probably pick up an A eventually when I upgrade my display tank. I have the D model now. Every other weekend I clean it, refill it, and make sure the plastic lid is fully seated. I'll give it a little tug to be sure. Twist it into the base, making sure it's positioned properly, and then in the back AIO chamber it goes.

I don't see a significant potential for failure unless it is by the user. But please correct me if there's something I'm missing. I don't like anything failure prone in my tank....especially an h2o2 bomb!
 

atoll

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Large scale leaking due to design failure or user error? I'll probably pick up an A eventually when I upgrade my display tank. I have the D model now. Every other weekend I clean it, refill it, and make sure the plastic lid is fully seated. I'll give it a little tug to be sure. Twist it into the base, making sure it's positioned properly, and then in the back AIO chamber it goes.

I don't see a significant potential for failure unless it is by the user. But please correct me if there's something I'm missing. I don't like anything failure prone in my tank....especially an h2o2 bomb!
Seems you doing the correct thing to ensure the correct fitting of the lid. That's fine but I have heard of people where peroxide had leaked excessively presumably due to an I'll fitting lid.
Another way with the D or mini is to turn it upside down and with the lid fitted press down on a flat surface to ensure equal pressure and fitting of the lid. Your method will work perfectly well as you notice.
 

atoll

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On another note to those using the model A.
1/ be sure not to over tighten the locking cap you only need to turn it until you feel the resistance of the cap against its stop.
2/. Try and centralise the acrylic container inside the beaker when fitting and do the same with the ceramic ball when you place it on top of the beaker so there is an equal gap between the container and the beaker and the ball and the beaker.
I have on occasion failed to do this with the result it tipped over.
 

Anthony Scholfield

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Large scale leaking due to design failure or user error? I'll probably pick up an A eventually when I upgrade my display tank. I have the D model now. Every other weekend I clean it, refill it, and make sure the plastic lid is fully seated. I'll give it a little tug to be sure. Twist it into the base, making sure it's positioned properly, and then in the back AIO chamber it goes.

I don't see a significant potential for failure unless it is by the user. But please correct me if there's something I'm missing. I don't like anything failure prone in my tank....especially an h2o2 bomb!
Definitely not user error. The ceramic base of the “d” unit has two nubs that stick out to hold the plastic lid and container. Over time from repeated twisting open and close the ceramic nubs start to wear which causes the container and plastic lid to not seat properly. This allows a gap and h2o2 leaks directly out.

Maybe your “d” units base has better nubs than mine did. It’s just a bad design in my opinion, especially for long term use.
 

jhuntstl

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Definitely not user error. The ceramic base of the “d” unit has two nubs that stick out to hold the plastic lid and container. Over time from repeated twisting open and close the ceramic nubs start to wear which causes the container and plastic lid to not seat properly. This allows a gap and h2o2 leaks directly out.

Maybe your “d” units base has better nubs than mine did. It’s just a bad design in my opinion, especially for long term use.
Thanks for clarifying. I'll keep an eye on my nubs. ;)
 

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