Tank Trials: Ultra Low Maintenance Tanks | BRStv Investigates

[Flexin]

The Triton Method is interesting, however, what you've proposed for a ULM tank so far is allowing the tank to mature properly. Of course as the tanks get older, they should get more stable if we started correctly. So the statement that the Triton Method gets easier as the tank gets older, to me, seems a constant across properly matured tanks and no real benefit of Triton. If you want to take Triton just a small step further, just pay someone else to maintain your tank. Then you can just write checks and call that the ULM 0.O

 

[Scott.h]

It's certainly working for me. I'd guess I'm spending 80% less time working on the tanks then I ever have. Some of that credit goes to other things like dosing pumps, apex ,atos, and other things that didn't used to exist when I started out.

More cost and planing does come into play up front, but after that it's great. My tanks are 100% triton for going on a year. I feel leaving things alone actually keeps me more in tune with stability, rather then hoping the salt manufacturers do it for me.

Ulm will also make another big jump for me in two months when I get my hands on the trident.

 

[Shawn Dahl]

Salt manufacturers won't go out of business due to any ULM approach. Even if it created a decline in salt consumption, the manufacturers would just compensate with higher prices. Millions of reefers already don't do water changes, it's probably the number one cause of tank crashes and tear downs, but when they rebuild they'll need more salt. Plus if your anything like most reefers on this site, your always building more, newer, bigger tanks

 

[Chris Villalobos]

I've tried every method except a calcium reactor for stabilizing my major elements and Triton is the best so far. With a reliable automatic doser my parameters have never been more stable and the ICP tests keep me from second guessing myself. Even if a tank is only currently growing coralline algae I believe it will need some form of element replenishment.

As far as ULM. With Chaeto growing do we even need Skimmers anymore? I removed mine. I do tend to still test a lot. An Alkalinity test every day and all the major parameters once a week. Also my ICP test came back with a high Tin content so I'm back to doing weekly water changes until I figure out where it's coming from.

 

[DaveC]

In Ep-8, Did he mention if he was running the skimmer for the 1st month?

 

[Toxic727]

I think skimmers at this point are case by case. I still have one. It still pulls out junk and I have to admit the gas exchange is a good perk.

 

[Ryanbrs]

In Ep-8, Did he mention if he was running the skimmer for the 1st month?

Turns out only the sps tank is going to have a skimmer . After we put the plumbing in the back area of the somatic sump it just didn’t have enough space for the fuge. I guess I’m in the current opinion that a fuge is a more efficient nutrient exporter than a skimmer. However, I wouldn’t be surprised if we needed to figure out a small skimmer for gas exchange and stable pH.

I’m either case we are not turning on any skimmers during the cycle.

 

[Lousybreed]

So you think people should keep doing water changes just to keep salt manufacturers in business?

Um, nope. Just noting how changing reefing methods can impact even the most established parts of the industries. Impressed that BRS has the courage to promote advances in reefing even if it could impact their sales (salt, and RODI equipment and replacement parts in this example).

 

[Lousybreed]

Salt manufacturers won't go out of business due to any ULM approach. Even if it created a decline in salt consumption, the manufacturers would just compensate with higher prices. Millions of reefers already don't do water changes, it's probably the number one cause of tank crashes and tear downs, but when they rebuild they'll need more salt. Plus if your anything like most reefers on this site, your always building more, newer, bigger tanks

It could cause some of the fringe brands to go out of business. But you are right most won’t go out of business. My biggest hopes is that other players get into the Triton method market. Of course each will have their little twists on it but the end goal of little to no water changes. Exciting times.

 

[skuby]

great new series ULM , just started watching Im on ep 3 , sumps !!

 

[Greaps]

BRS, can you give us a noise measurement on your different sump return pump combo's. Everyone would expect the DC's to be silent, but how much quieter than the AC tank.

 

[Pbh-reef]

will a future episode be about quarantine/disease prevention when adding corals, other inverts and fish? I think an episode that tackles quarantine, pest and disease control from a ULM perspective would very incredibly helpful and interesting. I'm imagining something that would expand on previous BRS quarantine videos and actually show how you set up the QTs you use.

 

[Centerline]

Hi all I have been contemplating doing a small 55 reef since i moved from Alaska. I definitely want to use the triton method. My question is inside the refugium along with the cheato I want to also use clams not decorative just live clams you can buy to eat. Pros and cons please. Thanks

I live in FL and head over the Cedar Key all the time to buy live clams - 2 hour drive. Depending on the time of year they cost anywhere from 10-30 cents per clam when purchasing a 100 count bag. So I have tried the clam thing - doesn't seem to workout well long term. I suspect the problem is nutrition. Even feeding greenwater I couldn't keep them alive for more than a few months.

 

[ps2cho]

Here's a good question...I am on month 3 no water changes. I had to move the tank a few feet and decided to drain and refill 30% with fresh water. The color of the water that came out was VERY yellow compared to the white bucket.

I'm wondering whether the color of the water is indicative of its quality in reality? Does someone who has a killer tank with tons of growth still receive yellow tinted water?

 

[Centerline]

I have never seen precipitate build up on an optical sensor before. We will be dosing kalk in at least one of these tanks so I will be sure to explore that.

You may find that with either ATO - running kalk can cause some serious PH swings. The typical ATO just spits out too much water too fast. May have to either dilute the kalk considerably or come up with different solution for the kalk such as a reactor that's drip fed by a dosing pump. Ive been using the 1.1 ml BRS dosing pumps for years - pretty easy to manage the kalk and no need to worry about the switches getting gummed up. I run the kalk between 3 am and 12 noon. The dosing pump comes on once an hour IF the PH is below 7.9. At 8.1 or run time is > 30 minutes it shuts off.

 

[Ryanbrs]

Here's a good question...I am on month 3 no water changes. I had to move the tank a few feet and decided to drain and refill 30% with fresh water. The color of the water that came out was VERY yellow compared to the white bucket.

I'm wondering whether the color of the water is indicative of its quality in reality? Does someone who has a killer tank with tons of growth still receive yellow tinted water?

There will be build up of color pigments over time and it will almost certainly get worse with time. I think use of activated carbon or ozone is almost mandatory with minimal water charges. Carbon will clean it up in less than 24 hours.

 

[Ryanbrs]

BRS, can you give us a noise measurement on your different sump return pump combo's. Everyone would expect the DC's to be silent, but how much quieter than the AC tank.

I’m actually on vacation right now so it would be hard to test them but I can tell you none of them were louder than the small amount of water noise with the systems.

The AC sicce pumps are two small guys so there is almost no audible noise as long as they are not touching the glass.

 

[Ryanbrs]

You may find that with either ATO - running kalk can cause some serious PH swings. The typical ATO just spits out too much water too fast. May have to either dilute the kalk considerably or come up with different solution for the kalk such as a reactor that's drip fed by a dosing pump. Ive been using the 1.1 ml BRS dosing pumps for years - pretty easy to manage the kalk and no need to worry about the switches getting gummed up. I run the kalk between 3 am and 12 noon. The dosing pump comes on once an hour IF the PH is below 7.9. At 8.1 or run time is > 30 minutes it shuts off.

One of options we have talked about as a ULM approach to kalkwasser is using a dosing pump to dose freshwater from the trigger storage container in the softy tank through a kalk reactor. This would allow you to limet and time the pH effect to your exact tank desires.

It should be fairly close to fully saturated in the reactor so the dose should be stable enough and easy to adjust with growth. I think the kalk reactor would likely only need to be refilled every month or two with tanks like this. The ATO could independently replace additional freshwater.

 

[Whiskeyboy84]

All though I am probably the most novice one here, I would have to say that Reef keeping isn’t Low Maintenance much less Ultra Low Maintenance! If you are trying to do everything right to keep a beautiful display, and your livestock thriving then from all that I have seen and researched the Triton Method surely seems the least intensive just short of not keeping a reef at all! Which is why I am building a 200g display around the basis of the Triton Method.

 

[kevantheman35]

I tried using the separate di beds and do not recommend. the anion resin smells like ammonia and when mixed tests off the charts for ammonia. they will tell you it is a similar compound that is not harmful. I cant take this risk with all my service accounts and have seen cloudy tanks one day after doing a water change with this water. back to mixed bed.