The Tenecor® Pico DIY Drops March 2nd, 2024

accidental_reefer

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Question for y’all: do you have a recommendation for aquarium background vinyl? I can find only ones with sheen and I prefer matte black.
 

Minifoot77

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Krylon fusion in matte black
 

Stang67

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Going to put some stuff in this tonight and get it cycling. If I DONT glue the lid on will it still hold? Ie is the acrylic lid mandatory for it to be structurally sound?
1000009728.jpg
 

Jim Gomoll

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The Eurobrace was added to keep water in tank when cleaning and moving things around vs spilling over the edge. It also helps with salt creep.
This small of a tank doesn't really need one for strength but it wouldn't hurt to add it.
Also without it the supplied lid will not fit so a custom one would need to be built.
 

tbrown

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@Tenecor Aquariums here's what I was thinking:

IMG_20240318_191703229.jpg

Not the best quality, sorry, no napkins nearby.

Overall length is 12.25" overall height is 5", overall width is 5.25". Each strip of acrylic is 5" wide, cut to lengths shown - (1) 12", (2) 12.25", (2) 5", (3) 4.875". Bottom is inside, ends are inside.

Each dosing chamber would be 2.9" x 5" x 4.875" and hold just over 1000 mL (1 litre) if filled to the top.

Makes sense I hope?
IMG_20240318_191703229~2.jpg
 

Jim Gomoll

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Think I have a found good budget Mini wave maker for our desk top builds. Definably a good candidate for the lower section of the Drop-off tank.
ZKSJ Mini Slim Wave Maker
$44 from Amazon or $29 from AlieEpress with around 2weeks shipping time.

Just started playing with one and can say it moves water. Max 2000L/528GPH, 10speeds/4patterns
Only down side is there is not a timer but easy enough to add one.
1710871200994.png
 

dansyr

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Yeah i got one of these too for supplemental flow in another tank, great for their size. Only problem is one of my gobies decided it was his favorite perch while it was off during a water change months ago, I didn't have the heart to kick him off, and now he spends like ~6 hours a day on it.

I'm happy he's happy, but why doesn't he like the Seriatopora colony I grew for him?????
Think I have a found good budget Mini wave maker for our desk top builds. Definably a good candidate for the lower section of the Drop-off tank.
ZKSJ Mini Slim Wave Maker
$44 from Amazon or $29 from AlieEpress with around 2weeks shipping time.

Just started playing with one and can say it moves water. Max 2000L/528GPH, 10speeds/4patterns
Only down side is there is not a timer but easy enough to add one.
1710871200994.png
 

Aaron75

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Think I have a found good budget Mini wave maker for our desk top builds. Definably a good candidate for the lower section of the Drop-off tank.
ZKSJ Mini Slim Wave Maker
$44 from Amazon or $29 from AlieEpress with around 2weeks shipping time.

Just started playing with one and can say it moves water. Max 2000L/528GPH, 10speeds/4patterns
Only down side is there is not a timer but easy enough to add one.
1710871200994.png
I use their bottom feed return pumps, those work great. Confident in that brand.
 

Stang67

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1000009789.jpg

Old rinsed sand. Couple rocks from the sump, couple new rocks and some gsp on the back. Standard light bulb bottle ato. Now we wait. Not using the lid want a mangrove so hopefully it will hold.
 

Jim Gomoll

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Mangrove in sump area? Could cut off the back area of the Eurobrace to open up the sump area. 3 sided brace is enough strength around display area, and the baffles in sump create the strength to hold back wall in place. Can also cut of the back of the lid to have a usable lid and open top sump.
 

Stang67

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Mangrove in sump area? Could cut off the back area of the Eurobrace to open up the sump area. 3 sided brace is enough strength around display area, and the baffles in sump create the strength to hold back wall in place. Can also cut of the back of the lid to have a usable lid and open top sump.
Rather have the whole top open. Similar to a rimless. Would like mangrove in main area not sump. Never got answer from Tenecor re if brace was necessary or not.
 

tbrown

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Rather have the whole top open. Similar to a rimless. Would like mangrove in main area not sump. Never got answer from Tenecor re if brace was necessary or not.
I thought they said no, but helpful for the lid or something?
 

~MD~Reefs~

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Rather have the whole top open. Similar to a rimless. Would like mangrove in main area not sump. Never got answer from Tenecor re if brace was necessary or not.
No, it would not be insane to add a rim/top. That is the way it should be made. The challenge and tradeoff with these DIY projects we put up is that everyone wants to add another bell and another whistle. Most of them good ideas. It's not like we are not aware of them. But bells and whistles cost money. The original idea for this little guy was our standard design with media cup and one baffle. Almost all of our aio nano frags are filtered this way and hobbyists really like them. Then someone mentions "it would be really nice to have lid". Ok, that means it will be polycarbonate ($$). Then another hobbyists would like a media caddy. Ok, we can do that but again ($). The original cost of $39 included shipping but no polycarbonate lid or media caddy. The caddy itself is not very material intensive but the machine time does cost money. The polycarbonate lids we now offer are much thicker and more durable than our previous versions and they do cost a bit. Adding a top with perimeter bracing (never figured out where "Eurobrace" came from) would add another dollop of cost as that would be cut from a single piece of acrylic. Personally, this is the correct way to do it and all of our tanks are built this way with the exception of the small rimless frags. You have brought me to a fork in the road so to speak. Should we "do it right" and add the top (most excellent build quality) or keep it cheap and forego the top? Adding the top also presents challenges for the media caddy, clearing the slight edge that will be present over the inlet chamber. We work around that though. How much cost are we talking about? $10 more for a new price of $49. Now that I am well into my morning ramblings and my second cup of coffee, this is probably what we are going to do. Below is an image of our original desktop AIO designed and built in 1978. It's still running. That AIO is also a full wet/dry. No bowing or warping. It has a one piece top which makes all the difference. Oh and it is made from 1/8 inch acrylic. The flat back hex version of that tank was our best seller for many years. We were cranking out over 150 a day. Those little desktops with the orange bottoms from another company? They all will bow out at the top within a year and they won't make it past five. Below is another image of what our first crowd sourced nano now looks like. An amazing little tank that will last a lifetime. It also started out as a rimless design. Teaser: we are going to introduce an entire collection of AIO frags priced from $99 to $189. So, thank you for reminding me that as a company our first rule is to not sell stuff we don't want our name on. This DIY will be redesigned with a top, a lid and will remain at $39. My production guys already don't like me.

Model 12 Aqua Dome.JPG

Over 45 years old and still running.

Nano Tank 20x20x12 front.jpg

This is what the DIY Pico will resemble with square corners and lid. The original design of this nano was a crowd source here on R2R and this 3rd generation is the end result. Notice how the AIO chamber is not a true "coast to coast". This is a better design than that and makes the side views much nicer. The new AIO frags I mentioned above will look very similar to this at 10 inches high with lids (!). They will be made from 1/8 inch and priced very attractively. No, they will not bow. None.
I’m not sure if this answers your question. Originally it was no top but then they changed it to be better
 

Stang67

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I’m not sure if this answers your question. Originally it was no top but then they changed it to be better
Better? Because it will last 5 vs 1 year. I think my weldon skills are going to determine how long it lasts better then the bracing but what do I know ;)
I will see if I can cut up the bracing/lid and attach it somehow this weekend. Probably with silicone so it looks real janky after I cut it up with a dremmel ;)
 
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Jim Gomoll

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Cutting up the Eurobrace will at least give a narrower border to tie all sides together. Worst case cut the brace into a couple strips. One cross wise left to right above the AIO back. The other in front connecting all three panels. Use Weldon vs silicone. It is stronger than silicon to hold/bond the acrylic together.
 
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Stang67

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If cutting up the Eurobrace doesn't work you could take a new piece of acrylic or cut up the web scrap piece that came with the kit. There is enough for 4) .5 to .75 wide strips to glue around the rim. I noted glue because Weldon is stronger than silicon to hold the acrylic together.
OK I thought the euro brace had to be a single solid piece that transversed the seams to "hold them together" Piecemealing them doesn't make sense in my head. Tank is already up running and got critters so may not be wise to use the weldon esp since I am using 4 at its watery. Was thinking silicone bc I can run a super fine bead and the "bracing" is more preventative then structural.
 

Jim Gomoll

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OK I thought the euro brace had to be a single solid piece that transversed the seams to "hold them together" Piecemealing them doesn't make sense in my head. Tank is already up running and got critters so may not be wise to use the weldon esp since I am using 4 at its watery. Was thinking silicone bc I can run a super fine bead and the "bracing" is more preventative then structural.
See edit
 

Jim Gomoll

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OK I thought the euro brace had to be a single solid piece that transversed the seams to "hold them together" Piecemealing them doesn't make sense in my head. Tank is already up running and got critters so may not be wise to use the weldon esp since I am using 4 at its watery. Was thinking silicone bc I can run a super fine bead and the "bracing" is more preventative then structural.
Second thought on the "One cross wise left to right above the AIO back." Being that it will be rather narrow and thin this piece most likely will warp over time. Reason the lids are Polycarbonate and not Acrylic.
Worst case some corner triangles would tie the sides together without impeding on the open space too much.
 

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