The Wrasse Lover's Thread!

Tcook

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I’d be surprised if this happened - H. chloropterus itself is closer in relation to the Coris genus (it’s closest relative is Coris batuensis). If it was to be moved it’s more likely to be moved into that genus.

Similar to this, if this was the case with Halichoeres chrysus due to it’s relations within the Biochoeres complex. It would be more likely that if Halichoeres chrysus moved into Pseudocoris, it would have to move Halichoeres leucoxanthus (the sister species within the Indian Ocean) and possibly Halichoeres iridis as well (the closest relative to Chrysus).

If you like charts, here’s the one I use for the Halichoeres complexes and the general they’re closest in relation to.
IMG_8653.jpeg

Leuco ain’t movin. Told me so.
 

i cant think

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Does this help at all? It is constantly moving, really tough to get a proper pic:

IMG_1770.jpeg
I’d probably agree and say he’s an Initial Phase Pseudocoris heteroptera :)
 

victorcan

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I have a red corris wrasse in my tank that I cannot catch won’t go into the trap. He is a complete psychopath. I’ve got 4 wrasses in my 400 gallon display all of the other wrasses are friendly and get along really well.
1. Yellow corris wrasse
2. Fairy
3. 6 line
4 red corris

I say the red chorus is a psycho because he harasses almost every fish in the tank, including a huge 8” emperor angel, who is otherwise clearly the dominant fish in the tank, but I have watched him pick up 2-3 inch conch snails whip them at the rocks to stun them and then devour their little bodies. Then he picks up their empty shells and carries them all to the back left corner of the tank among other things. he did the unthinkable today and ate a cleaner shrimp!!!.Thinking about getting a fishing line with a little hook? Had him for about 3 to 4 months, which is about 3 to 4 months too long.

IMG_5991.png IMG_5990.jpeg IMG_5989.jpeg IMG_5987.jpeg IMG_5980.jpeg IMG_5992.jpeg
 
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i cant think

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I have a red corris wrasse in my tank that I cannot catch won’t go into the trap. He is a complete psychopath. I’ve got 4 wrasses in my 400 gallon display all of the other wrasses are friendly and get along really well.
1. Yellow corris wrasse
2. Fairy
3. 6 line
4 red corris

I say the red chorus is a psycho because he harasses almost every fish in the tank, including a huge 8” emperor angel, who is otherwise clearly the dominant fish in the tank, but I have watched him pick up 2-3 inch conch snails whip them at the rocks to stun them and then devour their little bodies. Then he picks up their empty shells and carries them all to the back left corner of the tank among other things. he did the unthinkable today and ate a cleaner shrimp!!!.Thinking about getting a fishing line with a little hook? Had him for about 3 to 4 months, which is about 3 to 4 months too long.

IMG_5991.png IMG_5990.jpeg IMG_5989.jpeg IMG_5987.jpeg IMG_5980.jpeg IMG_5992.jpeg
That “Red Coris” is a Coris formosa (Queen Coris) and the only way ive found to get them out is by tearing apart the whole system.
 

MBruun

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Have you tried to put the trap up against the glass and put a mirror on the outside. That had helped me catching aggressive fish.

I have a mirror same size as the end of the trap, and use tape to attach it on the aquarium
 

JoJosReef

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Have you tried to put the trap up against the glass and put a mirror on the outside. That had helped me catching aggressive fish.

I have a mirror same size as the end of the trap, and use tape to attach it on the aquarium
Logging that in the ol noggin' for later!
 

i cant think

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Well, just wanted to update you guys:
I lost the Choati on Wednesday unfortunately, she started so well but then I noticed rather than being fat she was more bloated and possibly starved to the brink of no return from shipping. I’m not quite done giving up on this species yet, I have a friend who is going to try land one for me and fingers crossed he gets one past the difficult phases.

On the upside though, the Vivien is going strong! Within a week, she has gone from pretty much paper thin to the weight I expect when I land Leopards and other sensitive wrasses. Not long now before she’s back to the weight my old vivien was this time last year! But if you’ve ever wondered the sheer impact of a varied diet and feeding small amounts but often, this is it! Within days you can see weight gain on fish.
 

skey44

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IMG_7149.jpeg

Went from 0 to 4 wrasses real fast! This one followed me home today 🤩
Someone guide me with prophylactic meds on this species? Should he handle Copper power at 2.0-2.5? Prazi tolerant with an air stone?
IMG_7181.jpeg

She melted my heart without any prompting pulled her stool o er to check out the new guy. He seemed to like interacting with her too 🥰
 

i cant think

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Someone guide me with prophylactic meds on this species? Should he handle Copper power at 2.0-2.5? Prazi tolerant with an air stone?
IMG_7181.jpeg

She melted my heart without any prompting pulled her stool o er to check out the new guy. He seemed to like interacting with her too 🥰
Ive got copper at 1.75-2.00 with wrasses but dont go much higher than that due to their sensitivity, even witj copper power (this is the only copper i use with wrasse). As for Prazi dosing, ive done that 4-5 times now on wrasses more sensitive than Aurantidorsalis with no issues.
 

skey44

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Ive got copper at 1.75-2.00 with wrasses but dont go much higher than that due to their sensitivity, even witj copper power (this is the only copper i use with wrasse). As for Prazi dosing, ive done that 4-5 times now on wrasses more sensitive than Aurantidorsalis with no issues.
Thanks for the input! I’d honestly rather observe longer than over medicate. So 1.75-2ppm sounds like a plan.
 

skey44

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Ive got copper at 1.75-2.00 with wrasses but dont go much higher than that due to their sensitivity, even witj copper power (this is the only copper i use with wrasse). As for Prazi dosing, ive done that 4-5 times now on wrasses more sensitive than Aurantidorsalis with no issues.
Very timely response. Thanks! Actually noticed what I believe to be ich on the fish today. Hopefully out ahead of it. Fish is active and eating, just looks salted on the fins.
 

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OrionN

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It is difficult to get wrasse in Corpus Christi.It took me forever to get this common C. aquamarinus Fairy. He is doing well. Out of hiding and is eating pellets well. First picture of this guy. Small, only 2 inches. Still thin, hope he will gain weight quickly. I always like Aquamarine Fairy
AquamarinusFairy2025101901.JPG
 

i cant think

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It is difficult to get wrasse in Corpus Christi.It took me forever to get this common C. aquamarinus Fairy. He is doing well. Out of hiding and is eating pellets well. First picture of this guy. Small, only 2 inches. Still thin, hope he will gain weight quickly. I always like Aquamarine Fairy
AquamarinusFairy2025101901.JPG
I love mine, he’s about 4-5 inches currently. The boss of the wrasse (my Iridis has something to say about that though…) and well, their colours just never get boring!
I need to get a close up photo of him, but he’s in both of these FTSs.
IMG_3743.jpeg

0B5855B7-C052-4D47-B698-E041D6F04DE6.jpeg
 

Tcook

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Very timely response. Thanks! Actually noticed what I believe to be ich on the fish today. Hopefully out ahead of it. Fish is active and eating, just looks salted on the fins.
Wrasses do fairly well on chelated copper. I think dropping below 2.0 risks not treating the ich. I have run copper power at 2.25 with wrasses without issues.
 

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Wrasses do fairly well on chelated copper. I think dropping below 2.0 risks not treating the ich. I have run copper power at 2.25 with wrasses without issues.
Therapeutic levels of copper are 1.75-2.50, any level within that range I’ve found will help to treat for ich and velvet, but definitely find the higher then number the quicker it acts.
I’ve just always remained more cautious over the last 3-4 years of copper in fish systems due to seeing some quite harsh reactions from certain species, mainly the more sensitive anthias and dragonets.
 

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