Ulva in Refugium

[chimbo84]

When I set up my refugium, I decided to use Ulva as my primary nutrient export because my research indicated that Tangs will eat it. Well mine don't. In addition to that, my ulva does not appear to be growing and has become very dark green, very wrinkly, and sort of tough. Its not the leafy, light green algae it was when I got it. Any ideas what my issue could be? I am using a Kessil H160 Flora set to the grow spectrum and about 40% intensity. My nitrates measure 0.0 on the high range checker but the low range checker usually finds somewhere in the 0.25ppm range. Phosphates hover around 0.05ppm.

 

[chimbo84]

Here’s a picture of what it looks like. It’s not melting but it definitely doesn’t look healthy.

 

[KrisReef]

have to guess it is starving from low nutrients? Thanks for posting. Let's see what others know!

 

[moz71]

I have found low iron is often a culprit. Matter of fact, many times my cheato suffered from low iron. Not saying it could be your issue but a possibility

 

[chimbo84]

I have found low iron is often a culprit. Matter of fact, many times my cheato suffered from low iron. Not saying it could be your issue but a possibility

Is iron something that would be handled with regular water changes or do you typically have to dose it? I run daily 1% auto water changes.

 

[Eagle_Steve]

Here’s a picture of what it looks like. It’s not melting but it definitely doesn’t look healthy.

Can you take a piece out, put it on a paper towel, spread it out a little and take a pic under white light?

This is to see the color(s) of the macro and how it looks. From there, I may be able to tell you what is lacking, if it is a micro element issue.

 

[AlgaeBarn]

have to guess it is starving from low nutrients? Thanks for posting. Let's see what others know!

+1 on nutrients. I think this would be the first place that I start in trying to narrow things down- See about increasing your nutrient levels by maybe feeding your fish a little more and monitor consumption rate and health of the ulva from there -Raven

 

[chimbo84]

Can you take a piece out, put it on a paper towel, spread it out a little and take a pic under white light?

This is to see the color(s) of the macro and how it looks. From there, I may be able to tell you what is lacking, if it is a micro element issue.

Thanks! Here you go. Like I said, it’s very wrinkly and tough. It’s almost like fruit leather when I rip a piece off. It seems that rather than growing out, it just becomes more and more wrinkled to the point that it’s just a tightly packed ball at this point.

 

[Eagle_Steve]

Thanks! Here you go. Like I said, it’s very wrinkly and tough. It’s almost like fruit leather when I rip a piece off. It seems that rather than growing out, it just becomes more and more wrinkled to the point that it’s just a tightly packed ball at this point.

Looking at that, there is no yellowing around the edges or center, so that eliminates most all of the micro elements.

With that said, I suspect lack of nutrients are the cause. Usually ulva will shrink up, aka cells get tighter together, with a lot of light and lack of nutrients.

Best course is to up that NO3 a little. PO4, I am not too worried about, even with the test kit margin of error.

In addition, if you really want to grow ulva and have it fill up the fuge, ammonia dosing may be something to look into. I know not all use macro for nutrient reduction (I am in that camp), but as a home for pods and other micro fauna. Due to this, I have to dose ammonia to keep it alive and thriving. I am also not talking about a ton of ammonia, just a little to make it available in the water column for the macro.

 

[Lost in the Sauce]

Given that you started the refugium to help expert nutrients, what are you using it for now?

With 0 nitrates and .05 phosphates, you have already almost 0'd out which is Not a place you want to find yourself.

Are you aggressively skimming? What's the tank bioload look like?

To grow plants, you have to feed them and your water is almost devoid of food for them.

 

[chimbo84]

Given that you started the refugium to help expert nutrients, what are you using it for now?

With 0 nitrates and .05 phosphates, you have already almost 0'd out which is Not a place you want to find yourself.

Are you aggressively skimming? What's the tank bioload look like?

To grow plants, you have to feed them and your water is almost devoid of food for them.

I am not aggressively skimming. I empty my skimmer cup maybe once every three weeks. I have 11 fish in my 120gal DT and feed heavily three times a day so I am not sure why I’m struggling to keeps nitrates in the tank. I started dosing calcium nitrate about two weeks ago and am slowly upping the daily dose until I get something in the 2-5ppm range but it’s been difficult. I do have a bit of GHA in the tank so I’m wondering if that’s compounding the issue.

 

[Eagle_Steve]

I am not aggressively skimming. I empty my skimmer cup maybe once every three weeks. I have 11 fish in my 120gal DT and feed heavily three times a day so I am not sure why I’m struggling to keeps nitrates in the tank. I started dosing calcium nitrate about two weeks ago and am slowly upping the daily dose until I get something in the 2-5ppm range but it’s been difficult. I do have a bit of GHA in the tank so I’m wondering if that’s compounding the issue.

GHA in the tank will compete with the ulva for sure. You may be able to add some more cuc to the DT to reduce the GHA in there and this will allow the ulva to consume the nutirent, as opposed to the GHA doing so.

 

[chimbo84]

GHA in the tank will compete with the ulva for sure. You may be able to add some more cuc to the DT to reduce the GHA in there and this will allow the ulva to consume the nutirent, as opposed to the GHA doing so.

Thanks. I do need to up my CUC. My melanarus wrasse has made it difficult to keep snails in the tank. I'll be placing an order for more this week.

 

[Eagle_Steve]

Thanks. I do need to up my CUC. My melanarus wrasse has made it difficult to keep snails in the tank. I'll be placing an order for more this week.

WIth a melly, I have had awesome luck with Zebra Turbos. The larger the better.

Also, @SaltyT @Crabby48 and @i cant think may be able to tell you some additional CUC that can exist with a melly, as they are wrasse experts.

 

[Crabby48]

Thanks. I do need to up my CUC. My melanarus wrasse has made it difficult to keep snails in the tank. I'll be placing an order for more this week.

Try trochus snails. They can right themselves after melanurus throws them around. Others will die because they can’t right themselves

 

[i cant think]

Try trophy’s snails. They can right themselves after melanurus throws them around. Others will die because they can’t right themselves

+1 to this, also try going for some Trochus snails (Specifically Black Footed). I have these with my larger wrasses and smaller wrasses for that matter and they seem to all have survived. Another one id go for is nassarius, mine have made it past the wrasses as they have tough shells, I believe they can right themselves and they also hide in the sand during the day to come out at night.

The main things I look for with snails if they’re going into a tank with fish that may eat them or flip them are;
- Can they right themselves?
- Are their shells strong? (This is more so important for diurnal snails however I’d also try get nocturnal snails with a stronger shell).
- Are they nocturnal?

 

[Dan_P]

When I set up my refugium, I decided to use Ulva as my primary nutrient export because my research indicated that Tangs will eat it. Well mine don't. In addition to that, my ulva does not appear to be growing and has become very dark green, very wrinkly, and sort of tough. Its not the leafy, light green algae it was when I got it. Any ideas what my issue could be? I am using a Kessil H160 Flora set to the grow spectrum and about 40% intensity. My nitrates measure 0.0 on the high range checker but the low range checker usually finds somewhere in the 0.25ppm range. Phosphates hover around 0.05ppm.

Couple thoughts.

i grow a large amount of Ulva, every two weeks I pick out 2 liters to keep and toss 3 liters. It is a fast grower. The tank nutrients are 5 ppm nitrate and 0.5 ppm PO4. I dose ChaetoGro, one daily dose per week.

When I harvest the Ulva I find both the stiffer, wrinkled, stiffer habit and the flatter more lettuce- like which tears easily. I prefer to keep the tougher habit, thinking it is a healthier plant (just guessing). Your Ulva looks good, nothing obviously wrong, though that could change with 0 ppm NO3. Your Ulva could become stressed and go bad.

My Ulva develops a very light coating of cyanobacteria which is easily rinsed off in tap water when I harvest and return to the refugium. I discovered this when my Mexican turbos refused to eat it. Once it is rinsed they will eat. With your Ulva growing in 0 ppm nitrate, maybe it is coated with cyanobacteria and maybe the tangs find that unappetizing (just a guess).

 

[Crabby48]

+1 to this, also try going for some Trochus snails (Specifically Black Footed). I have these with my larger wrasses and smaller wrasses for that matter and they seem to all have survived. Another one id go for is nassarius, mine have made it past the wrasses as they have tough shells, I believe they can right themselves and they also hide in the sand during the day to come out at night.

The main things I look for with snails if they’re going into a tank with fish that may eat them or flip them are;
- Can they right themselves?
- Are their shells strong? (This is more so important for diurnal snails however I’d also try get nocturnal snails with a stronger shell).
- Are they nocturnal?

I typed trochus but iPhone decided trophy lol

 

[i cant think]

I typed trochus but iPhone decided trophy lol

Don’t worry, mine likes to do that with scientific names… I’ll type Halichoeres and it’ll go into some ridiculous phrase haha.

 

[Eagle_Steve]

Don’t worry, mine likes to do that with scientific names… I’ll type Halichoeres and it’ll go into some ridiculous phrase haha.

Mine does Haley's Chores if I type it and do not hit the little X to stop the correction.