URGENT: Lost 6 fish in 40 hours. I'm desperate.

[Jcat2k]

I would definitely not remove the carbon. If it has been in for more than a week I would consider changing it out.

So sorry for your struggles!

If there is a chance its a chemical toxin, I would change the carbon pronto - its a cheap way to try and cross one thing off the list.

 

[mattgsa]

Really sorry for your losses. Great job getting the hospital tanks setup so quickly.

 

[johnbr]

Biospira is my go to product. I thought I had mentioned that earlier. I would get 2 of the big bottles if you can and add them both. I'm currently QT'ing 5 anthias (down from 7 ) which I feed 5 times a day. I set the tank up with a 1/2 bottle of Biospira the day before I put the fish in it and haven't done a water change in a week.

I'm on my way to Petco to get 2 of the big ones.

One thing that I forgot to mention is that I have all 11 fish including all 3 tangs together in a 29 gallon tank. That could be hard to ammonia not build up so fast.

What I was thinking to do is having the small species and my copperband into my 10 gallon and let the tangs and the big fox face alone just with my goby since the bigger tank is the only one with a lid.

Would that be a good ideia? trying to split up them and decrease the waste load?

So sorry for your struggles!

If there is a chance its a chemical toxin, I would change the carbon pronto - its a cheap way to try and cross one thing off the list.

Thanks

Really sorry for your losses. Great job getting the hospital tanks setup so quickly.

Thanks a lot buddy.

 

[Brew12]

I'm on my way to Petco to get 2 of the big ones.

One thing that I forgot to mention is that I have all 11 fish including all 3 tangs together in a 29 gallon tank. That could be hard to ammonia not build up so fast.

What I was thinking to do is having the small species and my copperband into my 10 gallon and let the tangs and the big fox face alone just with my goby since the bigger tank is the only one with a lid.

Would that be a good ideia? trying to split up them and decrease the waste load?



Thanks



Thanks a lot buddy.

Splitting them up will help. If you do that, put 1 1/2 of the bigger bottles in your 29g and the other 1/2 in your 10g.

As long as you don't have copper in your system, Seachem Prime would also help. You can bind the ammonia for 2 to 3 days by using it. Not a good long term approach but safer than letting it build up.

 

[johnbr]

Splitting them up will help. If you do that, put 1 1/2 of the bigger bottles in your 29g and the other 1/2 in your 10g.

As long as you don't have copper in your system, Seachem Prime would also help. You can bind the ammonia for 2 to 3 days by using it. Not a good long term approach but safer than letting it build up.

I do have prime @Brew12...

Since now I'm just keeping them with regular dosage of Paraguard (which dissipates after 24 hours) and no copper whatsoever. So Seachem would be a solid ideia to use in conjunction with the Paraguard also, from Seachem?

Regarding the food since you are QT some anthias any personal picks? I have LRS Reef Frenzy, NEX Pellets, Dr G's Anti Parasitic Caviar, PE Mysis and Nori.

Thanks

 

[Brew12]

I do have prime @Brew12...

Since now I'm just keeping them with regular dosage of Paraguard (which dissipates after 24 hours) and no copper whatsoever. So Seachem would be a solid ideia to use in conjunction with the Paraguard also, from Seachem?

Regarding the food since you are QT some anthias any personal picks? I have LRS Reef Frenzy, NEX Pellets, Dr G's Anti Parasitic Caviar, PE Mysis and Nori.

Thanks

I use LRS Fish Frenzy, PE Mysis and nori in my DT. I prefer the fish frenzy because I feed the nori. I don't see the need to add veggies with both. I think the Fish Frenzy has a better consistency because of the lack of seaweed/veggies.

I've tried feeding the anthias the LRS and mysis, and they do ok with it but don't get too excited.
I knew the anthias were being fed a pellet/flake blend so I picked up a small container of that. They are only meh with that one too.
I had a cheap container of flake that hadn't been opened in over a year. Tried that, they go nuts for it. Silly fish.

 

[johnbr]

I use LRS Fish Frenzy, PE Mysis and nori in my DT. I prefer the fish frenzy because I feed the nori. I don't see the need to add veggies with both. I think the Fish Frenzy has a better consistency because of the lack of seaweed/veggies.

I've tried feeding the anthias the LRS and mysis, and they do ok with it but don't get too excited.
I knew the anthias were being fed a pellet/flake blend so I picked up a small container of that. They are only meh with that one too.
I had a cheap container of flake that hadn't been opened in over a year. Tried that, they go nuts for it. Silly fish.

Wow that's really funny.

So @Brew12 I finally came up with a plan.

I've been dosing the Seachem Paraguard every morning to keep the treatment for brook and velvet. The fish are eating and swimming.

I called Seachem to ask them how could I use Prime with Paraguard since both product are made by them. The guy said it was fine but I'll need to do as:

7AM - Paraguard

Wait the ammonia build up during the day (feeding, pooping peeing) then at 7PM ad the Prime.

Also,

They told me to get some kind of media (Seachem Matrix) and bacteria in a bottle to help to hold up.

Since I'm not using copper the paraguard wont kill the bacteria.

What you think?

 

[rkpetersen]

Any tips on lowering the ammonia? can I add a bottle of biospira of something else?

Biospira is good, but if you can find refrigerated Fritz Turbo locally, it might work even faster. Expensive though.

 

[johnbr]

Biospira is good, but if you can find refrigerated Fritz Turbo locally, it might work even faster. Expensive though.

thanks,

do want to sound like a jerk but money is not a problem here. just want to save my pets.

thanks a lot brother

 

[rkpetersen]

I've tried feeding the anthias the LRS and mysis, and they do ok with it but don't get too excited.
I knew the anthias were being fed a pellet/flake blend so I picked up a small container of that. They are only meh with that one too.
I had a cheap container of flake that hadn't been opened in over a year. Tried that, they go nuts for it. Silly fish.

Have you tried roe with them? It's high energy food and my anthias gobble up every little egg.

 

[johnbr]

Have you tried roe with them? It's high energy food and my anthias gobble up every little egg.

Never heard of it...

 

[shred5]

Have you tried roe with them? It's high energy food and my anthias gobble up every little egg.

Yea I use LRS fish eggs and they work great especially on anthias.
Need to be rinsed well or your skimmer goes nuts though.

 

[miyags]

thanks,

do want to sound like a jerk but money is not a problem here. just want to save my pets.

thanks a lot brother

Get a larger QT

 

[Brew12]

Wow that's really funny.

So @Brew12 I finally came up with a plan.

I've been dosing the Seachem Paraguard every morning to keep the treatment for brook and velvet. The fish are eating and swimming.

I called Seachem to ask them how could I use Prime with Paraguard since both product are made by them. The guy said it was fine but I'll need to do as:

7AM - Paraguard

Wait the ammonia build up during the day (feeding, pooping peeing) then at 7PM ad the Prime.

Also,

They told me to get some kind of media (Seachem Matrix) and bacteria in a bottle to help to hold up.

Since I'm not using copper the paraguard wont kill the bacteria.

What you think?

I think that sounds like a great idea.

Another nice thing many people don't realize about Prime is in the way it binds the ammonia. It makes it safe for fish, but it can still be processed by nitrifying bacteria and will still show up on test kits. Great product imo.

Matrix would be fine to put in there, but I've found the filter sponges that come with the HOB filters to work well. I have both in my current QT.

 

[rkpetersen]

Never heard of it...

Should be available at almost any LFS that has a refrigerator (Reef Nutrition ROE) or a freezer (LRS Fish Eggs). As mentioned, rinse away the thick liquid before feeding.

 

[Frtdrmrose7]

Victor I'm on my way to home depot but I might need more information on how to use this device the correct way since I've never done it.



I'll definitely check it out. Thanks for everything Guys from the bottom of my heart.



I know the tongue method to check the remaining "juice" in a 9v battery. I'll let you know for sure.

+1 on the stray voltage! This explains the itchy arms. Heaters are commonly known for doing this.

 

[JumboShrimp]

My two tips to go with all the great advice so far:

1) I don’t think anyone mentioned to you: When running the copper at therapeutic levels, be sure not to water-change with unmedicated water and ‘then’ raise the level back up in the QT. This could cause your tank to fall below therapeutic levels. Mix meds into the ‘new’ water prior to the water-change, such as removing 10 gallons of QT water and replacing with it with 10 gallons of medicated water.

2) Depending, of course, on your volume of water, number of fish, and feeding schedule—remembering not to pollute your QT water just to try to ‘convince’ medicated fish to eat— you may be surprised how infrequently you may have to change the QT water due to ammonia. I have relied successfully on the SeaChem Ammonia Badge to the point where I only change water when it registers into the second zone (green / alert).

 

[johnbr]

+1 on the stray voltage! This explains the itchy arms. Heaters are commonly known for doing this.

I've tested already. Nothing was wrong.

 

[johnbr]

Morning @Brew12

Question.

I'm having a hard time to get my copperband to eat in the QT. When he was on my display tank he was eating like crazy (which is a miracle for a fish like that). I'm cornered here since I don't know what to do. He never showed any signs of the disease but I didn't take any chance and put him on QT with the others. Now I have this dilemma because I don't have to lose him but at the same time I don't if at this point would be to risky to put him in the DT after just 6 days of treatment.

can you please share any ideas or tips?

And Oh I almost forgot...

All fishes seem fine and eating like crazy. Got a bottle of Bio-spira, did a little bit of prime and added a bag of matrix to help populate the bacteria.

Thanks a lot for all the help from you and the other ones.

 

[Brew12]

Morning @Brew12

Question.

I'm having a hard time to get my copperband to eat in the QT. When he was on my display tank he was eating like crazy (which is a miracle for a fish like that). I'm cornered here since I don't know what to do. He never showed any signs of the disease but I didn't take any chance and put him on QT with the others. Now I have this dilemma because I don't have to lose him but at the same time I don't if at this point would be to risky to put him in the DT after just 6 days of treatment.

can you please share any ideas or tips?

And Oh I almost forgot...

All fishes seem fine and eating like crazy. Got a bottle of Bio-spira, did a little bit of prime and added a bag of matrix to help populate the bacteria.

Thanks a lot for all the help from you and the other ones.

So no meds in the QT right now, and he isn't eating? Do you know what food he was eating before moving him to the QT?

I've never had a CBB but I know @HotRocks has put at least a few through QT. Maybe he or some of the others following your thread can make a suggestion. The only thing that immediately comes to mind is the lack of cover so the fish may not be comfortable/confident enough to eat. I haven't formed an opinion on it yet, but I've seen some QT systems with plastic plants made for aquariums to help break up sight lines. I'm not sure if it helps or not.