Water question help please?

[Srh444]

None of these, I believe, should be measurably present in RODI water.

Aside from ceasing to use Vibrant, I would strongly re-take a look at your entire water process. Most notably, if you are not running your own RODI system, it is my opinion that you should be.

You have to take control over your water.

So if I start with my own RODI system, then do I just add salt, then check for Alk and Cal - sorry but I don't know, not having done this before?

 

[BryanM]

So if I start with my own RODI system, then do I just add salt, then check for Alk and Cal - sorry but I don't know, not having done this before?

First, this is just a good read: https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/the-supreme-guide-to-setting-up-a-saltwater-reef-aquarium.138750/

Basically to answer your question, yes. So I make RODI water in to a 32 gallon brute trashcan. has a float valve at the top that stops making water when it is full.

In my specific case I generally only use this for topping off my ATO container.... IE, I'm the oddball that does not do water changes.

For you, you'd take 5 or 10 gallons of the rodi water in to another container, throw a powerhead in there, heater, and mix your salt for a water change. Pump 5 gallons out of your tank, and put in the new salt water. Done!

As for testing, most people's big three are Alk, Calc, and Mag. Calc and Mag are fairly hard to test for in home aquaria. I'd call the big 3 ALk, Nitrates, and Phosphates.

If you maintain a stable ALK, and you almost certainly will with regular water changes, you have a very good chance of maintaining good calcium and magnesium levels.

Nitrates and Phosphates have a WIDE range of accepted values. What you do not want to do is have zero of either or both. You will ignite a major algae problem.

 

[Srh444]

First, this is just a good read: https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/the-supreme-guide-to-setting-up-a-saltwater-reef-aquarium.138750/

Basically to answer your question, yes. So I make RODI water in to a 32 gallon brute trashcan. has a float valve at the top that stops making water when it is full.

In my specific case I generally only use this for topping off my ATO container.... IE, I'm the oddball that does not do water changes.

For you, you'd take 5 or 10 gallons of the rodi water in to another container, throw a powerhead in there, heater, and mix your salt for a water change. Pump 5 gallons out of your tank, and put in the new salt water. Done!

As for testing, most people's big three are Alk, Calc, and Mag. Calc and Mag are fairly hard to test for in home aquaria. I'd call the big 3 ALk, Nitrates, and Phosphates.

If you maintain a stable ALK, and you almost certainly will with regular water changes, you have a very good chance of maintaining good calcium and magnesium levels.

Nitrates and Phosphates have a WIDE range of accepted values. What you do not want to do is have zero of either or both. You will ignite a major algae problem.

OK, thanks very much for this advice

 

[Srh444]

I started in this hobby with a 20 gallon tank, and I was making my own RODI using a 5 stage from BRS when I started.

The responsibility to your tank is 100% yours and not the LFS.

It seems that you are relying heavily on the LFS for a successful tank. I wouldn't do that. Their goal is to get you to spend, as brick & mortar stores struggle to compete with their on line counterparts.

Is everything you are dosing at the recommendation of the LFS?

I feel you've made the right choice by consulting with the members here on R2R. Moving forward, I would double check here, anything your LFS is telling you.

Yes you're right, my water is my responsibility as others have also said. I doubt my LFS will make any changes to their water even though they have always been nice and friendly. I have mentioned the high alk, cal and Mag and they've just said, really, that's strange. As you know I have been using Salifert tests and all are in date order so I assume the LFS water is poor/bad. I need to look into a RODI system to eradicate these results so that I have more control over my own water.

Thanks to you all for your input.

 

[Srh444]

RODI systems pay for them selves in the long run, if you dont want to get one do you have a spotless water near you https://www.spotlesswater.co.uk/ I havent used them but others have with no problems

I'll have a look into this spotless water online, this could really help and thanks for the advice.

 

[Srh444]

First, this is just a good read: https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/the-supreme-guide-to-setting-up-a-saltwater-reef-aquarium.138750/

Basically to answer your question, yes. So I make RODI water in to a 32 gallon brute trashcan. has a float valve at the top that stops making water when it is full.

In my specific case I generally only use this for topping off my ATO container.... IE, I'm the oddball that does not do water changes.

For you, you'd take 5 or 10 gallons of the rodi water in to another container, throw a powerhead in there, heater, and mix your salt for a water change. Pump 5 gallons out of your tank, and put in the new salt water. Done!

As for testing, most people's big three are Alk, Calc, and Mag. Calc and Mag are fairly hard to test for in home aquaria. I'd call the big 3 ALk, Nitrates, and Phosphates.

If you maintain a stable ALK, and you almost certainly will with regular water changes, you have a very good chance of maintaining good calcium and magnesium levels.

Nitrates and Phosphates have a WIDE range of accepted values. What you do not want to do is have zero of either or both. You will ignite a major algae problem.

My nitrates and Phosphates are on the very low side - this is possibly due to Dr Tim's gel and Algae Management which I shall stop dosing. I do do regular water changes but two of my local LFS don't have good results according to my salifert tests. So I'll either try the 'spotless website' as someone has suggested or try another LFS. Thanks again for your advice

 

[Dan_P]

Thanks for your help the advice. I did a water change yesterday and sadly I put Algae Management in before reading your thread. I've not put anything else in. The algae comes off easily with a turkey baster and then I use a net or syphon it out. It's black looking and not much but it does appear on a few corals.

So if I buy some distilled water add some salt and test for Alk?

Thanks, Steve

Seems like you are netting cyanobacteria not algae. Either you have been treating cyanobacteria with algae eradication products or the cyanobacteria is growing because of the dying algae. Post a picture for a diagnosis.

 

[DexterKarin]

Check aqua life's Rodi buddy on Amazon. For 70 dollars it is well worth it. I keep mine in a bin, go to the garage, hook it up, make my water and done. Super easy, convenient and I am pretty sure cheaper over time. I also have a 30 gallon tank.

 

[Srh444]

Seems like you are netting cyanobacteria not algae. Either you have been treating cyanobacteria with algae eradication products or the cyanobacteria is growing because of the dying algae. Post a picture for a diagnosis.

The algae isn't dark red which I assume is Cyanobacteria. It's black and film like. It comes off easily with a turkey baster. There is none on the sand only a little on the rocks. Please see attached two photos, one with blue lights and the other with white lights.

 

[Srh444]

RODI systems pay for them selves in the long run, if you dont want to get one do you have a spotless water near you https://www.spotlesswater.co.uk/ I havent used them but others have with no problems

I've looked at this spotless water nearby but haven't had any luck. The pin on the map was pointing me to a pigeon breeder?!

 

[Srh444]

Check aqua life's Rodi buddy on Amazon. For 70 dollars it is well worth it. I keep mine in a bin, go to the garage, hook it up, make my water and done. Super easy, convenient and I am pretty sure cheaper over time. I also have a 30 gallon tank.

Thanks for this, I'll look into it.

There is also another LFS I could try, a bit further away but at least another option

 

[Dan_P]

The algae isn't dark red which I assume is Cyanobacteria. It's black and film like. It comes off easily with a turkey baster. There is none on the sand only a little on the rocks. Please see attached two photos, one with blue lights and the other with white lights.

I will stick with the cyanobacteria diagnosis for now.