60g Neurosis Stand

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:D Yeah, I wasn't going to say anything (to each their own) but yes, it does seem a "bit" over engineered. But that's just my opinion. At least your way it will definitely outlive you.;) Question, when you pull the sump out how are you going to have the return pump connected? Just flex hose? Will you need to have a ball valve on the drain line to turn it off?
 
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MaddyP

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Love the unique idea for a pullout sump! I'll be doing something similar with the reservoirs on my latest build. Also, I've used Misumi for all my aluminum stands without any regrets. :)
 
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I will have 3 flex lines- 1 return pump, 1 main overflow, 1 emergency overflow. you can kinda see the 3 elbows above the sump where the tubes will hang, and the weird block with 3 holes is where they will connect to the rolling sump. (that can be seen just above the sump mounted to the control wall) I plan to do this with thin wall silicone for the best flexibility, as I don't mind if they kink when moving the sump, but I want them "Stretched" (unable to be kinked) appropriately when the sump is either fully open or full closed. My intentions are to have valves on return pump (ball valve) and the main overflow. (gate) My first models included these valves in the sump area, but in all the rearranging I simplified my expectations, and decided the valves would be fine on the back, where they can be adjusted from the flanks behind the tank. Not sure if I will ever mount them.
 
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Previous pictures could not see the receiver block, woops. Red is overflow, Yellow is return pump. When fully open and fully closed the tubes should be extended the same amount, just in opposite directions.
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Joe Glass Cages

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Here you go.
$580 24x24x24 custom rimless glass tank
$145 external coast to coast overflow
$85 Overflow cover
$45 3 bulkheads
$1,182 Modern Fine Furniture Level Red Oak Stand 30 Tall, Finished in Black or White, with Hinged Slow Stop Doors, Push to Open and Doors on both Short Sides
$2,037 Total custom build
got that quote quick. Love that!
 
Galactic Coral Live Sale
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MadeForThat

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Lots more small details fleshed out. It doesn't look like it, but at this point I have probably close to 200 hours in this, possibly more. My extrusions have still not shipped, and im getting restless. I don't get a ton of time between work and commuting, so I probably shouldn't rush Tnutz about my order. It will still take me the better part of a year to complete this lol.
 

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;Hilarious No rush, within that year you will probably make multiple changes.:) I spent 5 years changing my plans before even starting the build and it continues to evolve still. Have any ideas yet about how or with what you are going to clad this stand? Is your receiver block something you bought or are 3D printing?
 
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I am planning on cladding it with either acrylic or polyethylene. Honestly whichever I can more easily source. White Acrylic gets pretty pricy, polyethylene is not so much. I am thinking either magnets or this type of adhesive pad:
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Yeah that receiver block will definitely be printed, I still have not added mounting holes for it, but they will be worked in closer to when I begin printing the 30 other brackets for this thing lol
 
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I LOVE overdesigning things. It leaves very little room for frustration in final assembly. Unfortunately it usually requires a ton of time and frustration in the design stage.... My Issue here is with my ATO fill chute. Flips out for a bucket to be rested on, (should be able to support lip of bucket) and flips up and out of the way so the front panel can be replaced. The output will get right in the way of the skimmer when it is flipped up. So I need to either make the tube connection not rotate while the rest does (design heavy...) or I need to clear the skimmer somehow. The reason for all of this is purely because I don't want to have to pull the whole sump out just to fill my ATO. I have 4 separate 1/2 hour lunch breaks in this... and it doesn't work. The up side is I know it now versus when I try to put it together haha
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MadeForThat

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Had a chance to work on my wire management system a bit. I needed a way to store the power bricks and extra cable lengths on the control side of the pull out sump. I also needed a place to break out my 12C 14AWG festoon cable that will run from a box on the rear of the tank to the slide out sump. The flat cable will allow me to run 4 outlets from the apex to the back of the tank, as well as the incoming power to feed the apex. The issue was that I did not want to have to route all the wires for 5 devices and have to worry about kinking and such, and the festoon will allow me to easily group it together. But I did need a place to mount the cable and break out all the conductors. This box will include all of that mounting and breakout nonsense, while also handling extra cables/bricks from the 4 remaining apex outlets. It probably isn't totally obvious how it will work, but each compartment has 1 thumb screw to release the lid, and allow you to cram it full. I didn't want all my cables going into 1 larger box to avoid the "fun" of jumbled wires. My printer is big enough to handle this, but I don't think It will be able to do so without a lot of warping. I intend to try making it all one unit, but may need to separate each box. Each outlet box is about 7.75"x1.7"x4.5", with extra consideration for mounting a heater controller outside of the box-but nearby. No sensor wires should go anywhere near this box, and hopefully cut down all the sensor noise that the AC line produce.
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IMG_20210219_230942.jpg

frame assembled, but waiting on feet to be attached before flipping back over
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slide out sump-controller side
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slide out sump- sump side
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slide out sump- supports and wheels
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slide out sump- big schmoofus
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Power in, and Apex breakout for rear of tank

So I got a fair bit done Saturday, I realized I had forgotten hardware+tap to mount the leveling feet on the bottom of the frame, so I am waiting on that. Cut all the plywood and assembled it as much as I could. I am also waiting on hardware to mount the support rails to the plywood. I was able to mark everything out, so I will just need to drill and assemble when the hardware arrives. My plan is to put it all together to see how it fits together, then disassemble and paint it all up. Then reassemble, and silicone the plywood walls to make sure even less water has the ability to get anywhere near the screw holes. I also mounted all of the outlets and incoming power receptacle, I loath making cutouts in boxes/panels but I love the results.... This box greatly simplifies the connection of devices to the slide out sump without needing to route them in a large bundle in tight quarters. The large printed box 2 posts above will be the other end of this 12 wire flat cable.
 
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Joe Glass Cages

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@Joe Glass Cages what kind of cost do you typically see on shipping?
@MadeForThat, shipping fees depend on what is being shipped and to where. To a Business, Residence or Terminal? If Business or Residential, is a lift gate truck needed? Need to determine the details of what you desire so the shipping weights and dimensions can be determined as well. Can you share all of those details when you get a chance? Or give me a call and we can take care of this over the phone. Thanks so much!
 
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@Joe Glass Cages For the sake of having all this info in one place, Ill message you that info here. The tank would be a 24" Cube. Thickness of glass would be based on your recommendation. I think I would prefer if the tank was delivered to my residence, and depending on your available delivery vehicles, I don't think it would need a lift gate truck. I also may be able to claim it from a nearby terminal, or even have it delivered to the company I work for. Do you mind making a rough estimate for business, residence, and terminal? Obviously not looking for a binding quote, we can focus on getting a more accurate number closer to when I have a stand to put it on :)
 
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The wheels are not yet attached, but the whole slide out assembly is pretty much built, I just need to paint it all up and then re-assemble. I don't look very happy because I looked like a ghoul in the other shot I took lol
 
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A small update: I primed my plywood with "marine primer" by rust-oleum, and have applied the first layer of "topside" paint on one side. The primer went on beautifully, but the topside paint is very splotchy. I hope this isn't indicative of the paint's resilience. 2 layers is absolutely a must, and I can only do one side per 24 hours, so the next 4 days belong to paint. Hopefully 2 layers will give a smooth and even finish, but I am not optimistic.
 

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Are your corals ever subjected to the open air with no water for water changes or tank maintenance?

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