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I was under the impression that Dino-x didn't work against amphidinium and could even fuel the fire.... I'm no expert though.Anyone tried dino-x before?
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I was under the impression that Dino-x didn't work against amphidinium and could even fuel the fire.... I'm no expert though.Anyone tried dino-x before?
The same stuff applies as in the other thread. these dinos are good at getting P, they also create carbon rich environments where any P added gets consumed by bacteria to process the extra Carbon.I dosed seachem flourish nitrogen to get to 5ppm nitrates. Worked great.
BUT I have been dosing seachem flourish phosphorus daily. Next day the tank tests at 0 again. Can anyone explain where my phosphates are going?
Well my nitrates climbed to about 25 but I have them back down to 5 now. Dose phosphates 2x daily. Dinos seem gone and tank looks great. Corals colored up and coralline is a deep red color. I'm scared to stop dosing the phosphate. I don't wanna dose it forever though.The same stuff applies as in the other thread. these dinos are good at getting P, they also create carbon rich environments where any P added gets consumed by bacteria to process the extra Carbon.
Its as though dino tanks have a "phosphorus debt" that has to be paid down before P levels can become normal.
For coral health, be careful about raising nitrates in a tank while its still under P depletion.
Based on my limited knowledge from this thread and the main Dino thread dinos thrive in a phosphate depleted environment where there is not a lot of biodiversity to out compete it for food. My goal at the outset, and the basic strategy that I could deduce, was to keep nitrates around 5ppm-10ppm and phosphates around 0.05-0.10 to allow other algaes to propagate in the display while simultaneously trying to keep the Dino population low. I had tested 0 N and 0 P for probably 6 months prior so I had to dose to get those levels where I needed them. I also vacuumed the sand through a 10 micron sock daily for about a month.I’m confused here. My phosphate is 0.16 at last check. I’ve been trying to get it down. Should I stop doing that?
Nitrate is 5ppm
So if I'm understanding you correctly once the dinos are gone the carbon levels should drop and dosing phosphates will become less and less necessary..... This could also explain why, when I started dosing phosphates, my skimmer level rose drastically. Am I getting it? Thanks for all the help btw.The same stuff applies as in the other thread. these dinos are good at getting P, they also create carbon rich environments where any P added gets consumed by bacteria to process the extra Carbon.
Its as though dino tanks have a "phosphorus debt" that has to be paid down before P levels can become normal.
For coral health, be careful about raising nitrates in a tank while its still under P depletion.
Yes. Nutrients are your friend right now. Let your tank's natural communities (algae diatoms etc) scale up over time to bring nutrients down. This will give you lots of competitors in the niches that dinos had occupied.I’m confused here. My phosphate is 0.16 at last check. I’ve been trying to get it down. Should I stop doing that?
Nitrate is 5ppm
So if I'm understanding you correctly once the dinos are gone the carbon levels should drop and dosing phosphates will become less and less necessary..... This could also explain why, when I started dosing phosphates, my skimmer level rose drastically. Am I getting it? Thanks for all the help btw.
Perfect. Thank you again for your time and help. You have a knowledge and way of explaining what is happening in the chemistry that makes it all crystal clear.Yes. The mechanism is clearer with other kinds of dinos. They leave behind their armor (theca) every time they split, and the theca is super carbon heavy.
Amphidinium don't have theca, but they apparently make other carbon-heavy products: mucus, strands, toxins, other random polysaccharides (and cells themselves) - all carbon heavy.
The way the bacteria community processes carbon by consuming a lot of P, means that this excess carbon can be thought of as phosphorus debt. Once this phosphorus debt is paid down, then a tank can maintain normal phosphate levels without having to dose insane amounts of P.
Eventually, P levels can be maintained by just feeding.
Well that would make sense and part of the reason I’m asking before dosing. Just to make sure I have the right strain, here’s what I’m dealing with.
I dosed seachem flourish nitrogen to get to 5ppm nitrates. Worked great.
BUT I have been dosing seachem flourish phosphorus daily. Next day the tank tests at 0 again. Can anyone explain where my phosphates are going?
Did not work at all for me.Anyone tried dino-x before? I’m not making any headway
Oh wow. You were dosing a total of 20mls a day of seachem phosphorus brand specifically?? I have been dosing 2mls twice a day. Total of 4mls. If I test shortly after it shows at 0.25 or so but after 12 hours 0.0 again. I guess I'll bump it up.This is expected continue to dose and even increase the daily dose until you see a stable reading above 0. I was double dosing 10 ml everyday for my 90 gallon until phosphates held steady around 0.8
Thanks for that detailed update! I'm on pretty much the same exact path and situation. In an effort to boost biodiversity I just added 6lbs of Walt Smiths Fiji Mud to tank and refugium last night. Today i just had 5 lbs of garf grunge and 5 lbs of grunge plus arrive at my house. Added some stuff from indo pacific sea farms last week (snails, worms, stars, snails). I already have a healthy population of pods and other worms.
Anyone try the chaeto blob method? Will it end up sucking nutrients and zeroing everything out having chaeto in the dt?
My Macroalgae is covered in Cyano but is still growing and still in the main display.Wanted to repost this from the other dino thread. Looks to be having some level of success with the Macroalgae Crowding method which is the second idea talked about in the First Post on this thread. This worked for me mutiple times vs Large Cell Amphidinium, hasn't yet been thoroughly tested by others.
With good test kits and sensible N & P levels you can keep things from zeroing out while having even a lot of macro in display.
I was going to comment that my chaeto blob experience actually had many similarities to what @bh750 just reported.
The key to how well these grazer-empowering methods work on a particular outbreak seems to be tied closely to how toxic the dinos are. If almost totally non-toxic like mine, then grazers can be very important.
This is my favorite Dino video. It's a tanaid (a shrimp-like critter) and its young eating amphidinium by the claw-full.
Absolutely. My conch was great at clearing patches of the brown dinos coating the sand grains, and to a lesser extent, a large cerith ate some too.So on that note do you think it's possible for a conch to consume dinos? I clearly watched one of my new conchs sweep away with his "trunk" I call it all over the sand. When he hit sand that was brown from dinos the result was white sand tried to get it on video. Maybe the conch touching the sand just forced the dinos down underneath the top layer.