Basic DIY Stand Calculator

[Freenow54]

Your correct about the weight I don't know what I was thinking 10 pounds a Gallon for me and him . A US gallon is smaller. So 729 Litres is158 imperial gallons so 1,580 pounds. Anyway I don't know what your referring to when you say vertical legs . My tank stand is in this thread . It has the corner braces that I suggested . I have no idea what the support calculated difference would be but its about 7 years old with a 100 on it and don't forget the rocks . I did not realize its going to be fresh water.

 

[Freenow54]

I need new glasses I thought the legs were 4 x 4 but they are under the top box if you will. Since you have not started again missed that I would refer to my comment this morning here . Rethink how you are going to do the bottom so that you can put a rectangular piece of plywood straight in. I as you can see by mine did not and its a real effort to get 1 piece into it. As to having a canister that's what I would stick with myself although I prefer Fluval since they sell media in bags for theirs which is a no mess pleasure to maintain they have enough sponge filters in them already they have carbon ammonia remover water clarifiers and phosphate pads that fit as well. I also would consider a substrate filter as when I emptied my fresh water the water that came out with the sand was putrid even though I siphon cleaned it every water change. That was not easy because I had Malawi cichlids that were breeding and hiding their tiny babies under the plants . Listen to your Brother

 

[Freenow54]

Apparently yes so did I he has not started yet

 

[Fearrchair]

Well as you say its better to be overkill, l have seen that reference 10 to 12 lbs per gallon as well.

 

[Freenow54]

Well as you say its better to be overkill, l have seen that reference 10 to 12 lbs per gallon as well.

For sure 10 that's how we know how much weight we are carrying when we go north a can of 5 gallon gas is about 50 lbs so is a case of beer

 

[RocketEngineer]

Hi all,

I was talking to my brother who's an Engineer and he worried me a small bit...

See below for example not mine.

If a tank was 720litre 79" x 24" x 24" the internet tells me that's 830kg freshwater.

I have a cherry wooden floor onto a concrete slab.

He was saying would l not need to put panels under the vertical feet would the floor not have a lot of pressure at each point, even If l had a sheet of plywood spreding the load a little.

Rereading this, I think you may be mistaken in how it should be sitting. The bottom frame should be touching the floor, not the vertical parts. If this isn’t the case, you may need to trim the inner supports to create the necessary gap. With the entire bottom frame touching the floor (shimmed on all sides as needed), there aren’t any point loads to worry about.

 

[Freenow54]

Don't forget its not his stand

 

[Nor'easter Reefer]

With this stand design, if the floor isn't perfectly level under the stand do you cut each leg individually to make the top level? Or do you shim it? Would those create pressure points that would eventually sink/cause the floor to flex and lose level?

 

[RocketEngineer]

With this stand design, if the floor isn't perfectly level under the stand do you cut each leg individually to make the top level? Or do you shim it? Would those create pressure points that would eventually sink/cause the floor to flex and lose level?

My advice is to shim a square and true stand. In my 125g setup, I used cedar shingles and shimmed the entire base. A cut with a utility knife and they snapped off.

 

[TXknucklehead]

If I am building a stand for a rimless tank how would I best finish the top? I assume a thick plywood but I am unsure how to attach best. Do I want to screw it down all along the framing? I could see this leaving an uneven surface then which is bad. Just glue? Or am I over thinking this?

 

[Fish Fan]

If I am building a stand for a rimless tank how would I best finish the top? I assume a thick plywood but I am unsure how to attach best. Do I want to screw it down all along the framing? I could see this leaving an uneven surface then which is bad. Just glue? Or am I over thinking this?

Welcome to Reef2Reef!

I'd use 3/4 plywood, you can screw that down from the top, countersink the screws, and fill them with wood filler. You could also just use wood glue and clamps, it will hold just fine. You could use pocket holes from the underside too, just make sure the screws don't come out through the top surface of the top.

I hope that helps!

 

[Freenow54]

If I am building a stand for a rimless tank how would I best finish the top? I assume a thick plywood but I am unsure how to attach best. Do I want to screw it down all along the framing? I could see this leaving an uneven surface then which is bad. Just glue? Or am I over thinking this?

special drill bits are made that are tapered and have a countersink collar they would be perfect. don't have to glue your talking hundreds of pounds

 

[ryudo80]

Should the blue top piece be flushed with the upper rails? I've noticed they're slightly below the upper rails in the first diagram ( I assume it's to reduce possible high points in the middle of the stand). I noticed in later 2 diagrams they are. I plan to build a stand for a 6ft long stand for an acrylic tank with 3/4 inch plywood top. Would having flushed upper blue pieces help support the weight and keep the plywood from bending due to weight?

 

[RocketEngineer]

Should the blue top piece be flushed with the upper rails? I've noticed they're slightly below the upper rails in the first diagram ( I assume it's to reduce possible high points in the middle of the stand). I noticed in later 2 diagrams they are. I plan to build a stand for a 6ft long stand for an acrylic tank with 3/4 inch plywood top. Would having flushed upper blue pieces help support the weight and keep the plywood from bending due to weight?

You’re correct. If you can ensure it’s not a high point, flush is fine. But ultimately, the strength is in the red pieces.

 

[Fearrchair]

Hi all me again,

Found timber l had left over in the attic from when l built the house.

Some of it wasn't 100% perfect straight etc but kept going.

Screwed down a 12mm sheet of plywood and a foam mat. I admit the front to back, left to right were not dead center on the level but l thought it was the floor and stand (this was two rooms that an internal wall was removed. So there's a slight difference in the floors but we joined them as best we could at the time. And that with plywood and foam and overtime we could get closer to level etc.

The aquarium came last night it's own base and top side and front are perfectly level, however the front left corner and back left have space underneath, there's also a gap half way across the front from the left to a lesser degree.

I am wondering could the foam be off due to its weight we struggled and it moved. Then we tried to moved the tank back and forward again to take off a bottom cardboard base corner and to try and get that foam in position again it was moved in and out... It's looking even and covering the base now tho.

So am l as well to buy a stand and have confidence maybe feet could be adjusted....

Build with new timber again mistakes learned etc closer fits joints.

I see some online comments saying to pack foam in on the spaces, but others saying that's a no no, especially between the stand and aquarium, maybe it's rimless and rimmed tanks.

Thoughts....

 

[bks]

This is a repost of my previous calculations. Again, this is not my design but has become connected with my name over the years.

The basic principle of the design is two box frames connected by four legs. The upper one supports the tank and transfers the load to the legs. The legs are made of several pieces of 2X4 to assist in construction and sheething the stand in plywood for strength and cosmetics. The bottom frame transmits the load of the tank into the floor.

Design notes:
*The plan for this stand consists of 21 pieces. All pieces that are the same color are the same length and of the same board size.
*The box frames are screwed together first, then the legs are built off the bottom frame, the top frame is then placed on top and secured to the legs.
*The green pieces are screw strips. These provide limited load strength but serve to make assembly easier and help keep the stand square.
*The blue piece between the upper rails (red) works to keep the upper rails from twisting.

Cut list:
The length calculations below are based off of a stand that is "W" inches wide X "D" inches front-to-back X "H" inches high.

(2) Red - Upper Rails: Length = W
These will be sized according to length:
- 2X4 for 48" or less for smaller tanks (Rule of thumb is 75g-90g)
- 2X6 up to 72" with 125g-150g being acceptable
- 2X8 recommended for longer spans and larger tanks

(2) Yellow - Upper Ends: Length = D-3"
Theses should be made of the same material as the upper rails.

(4) Green - Screw Strips: Length = H-2"
These 2X4s are shorter then the tank is tall to ensure the tank and stand sit properly. These can also be turned 90 degrees for more opening room.

(8) Purple - Uprights: Length varies:
- 2X4 Upper Rails: Length = H -7"
- 2X6 Upper Rails: Length = H-9"
- 2X8 Upper Rails: Length = H-10.75"
These 2X4s support the weight of the tank. They can be shifted to give more opening clearance. Ensure there are no gaps for greatest strength.

(2) Orange - Bottom Rails: Length = W
These 2X4s act to spread the weight of the tank over a larger area.

(3) Blue - Bottom Ends: Length = D-3"

Covering up to 4 sides of the stand with plywood will help to stiffen the stand against twisting and shifting.

Hello @RocketEngineer, going to build stand using this design for 90g peninsula. However, I do not want to put plywood around it. I want to put white acrylic panels that are attached with a few magnets and are removable.
These will not provide any strength so is it ok to not use plywood wrap? And if not is there something else I should do?

Thanks Kindly

BKS

 

[ryudo80]

I am about to build my 6ft long stand for a 72x24x22. I don't plan to have a very large sump, around 40"x16". In order to be able to insert/remove the sump, I can go through the front or through the side of the stand. I plan to use 2x6 for the top frame. What is the better configuration for stand rigidity. In either configurations, I plan to have a center brace in the back.

1) Access through the front with a 42 inch wide opening in the middle and 2 additional support braces on the sides of the 42 inch opening. The tank sides will be skinned with plywood.

2) A center support brace in the front but the side won't be skinned. It will have removable panels.

 

[Freenow54]

I am about to build my 6ft long stand for a 72x24x22. I don't plan to have a very large sump, around 40"x16". In order to be able to insert/remove the sump, I can go through the front or through the side of the stand. I plan to use 2x6 for the top frame. What is the better configuration for stand rigidity. In either configurations, I plan to have a center brace in the back.

1) Access through the front with a 42 inch wide opening in the middle and 2 additional support braces on the sides of the 42 inch opening. The tank sides will be skinned with plywood.

2) A center support brace in the front but the side won't be skinned. It will have removable panels.

I with very good advice made my own out of a 40 Breeder . You left one dimension out . The point is I left the largest space in the middle for the reason of removing the skimmer. I am able to leave my front center brace in and have plenty of room. I suggest you do the same . You can always put in a removable brace but for what reason . That is a lot of vertical weight. Another thought is to use angled corner braces from the right and left vertical legs to your 2 by 6 top member . I did that on one of my Tanks because I went with a pre fab Sump . Terrible set up. The skimmer has to be in the same chamber as the supply water from the main display. I

will never buy a sump again . You can buy precut glass from a glass / window place , and with some time and thought make your own. Picture of bought one , and picture of one I made. ( note corner braces

 

[jmartin304]

Here are some alternate designs for specific cases. No calculations included but you should be able to work out sizes based on the info above.

I’m using the too build to make a stand for a 180 but my question is why doesn’t this one have any middle horizontal braces (colored blue) like the others? Should I use one?