Beginning my CADE 1200 S2 build

AquaCave

Wingzinco

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The collection of most items is complete, now, it’s time to get to work. I’ve vowed to be as patient as I can and to think through every decision I make. After many years and many tanks, it’s time to do it right from the start. Can’t wait!

Aiming for a mixed reef system. I’ll update as I go, but it will definitely take some time with a busy schedule.

Not pictured:
Reef Octopus 152-S skimmer
EcoTech XR30 G4 x 2
1 additional EcoTech MP40
BRS Media Reactors x 2
EcoTech Battery Backup
Plenty of CaribSea LifeRock

Plan to add dosing pumps in the near future.

B1908E02-9846-4761-8D1A-AA91C5ED6084.jpeg DAFC3DED-6BE2-4101-B354-D38297DC4D31.jpeg
 
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www.dinkinsaquaticgardens.com
Printed Reef - Custom Reef Accessories

oldmonk

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The collection of most items is complete, now, it’s time to get to work. I’ve vowed to be as patient as I can and to think through every decision I make. After many years and many tanks, it’s time to do it right from the start. Can’t wait!

Aiming for a mixed reef system. I’ll update as I go, but it will definitely take some time with a busy schedule.

Not pictured:
Reef Octopus 152-S skimmer
EcoTech XR30 G4 x 2
1 additional EcoTech MP40
BRS Media Reactors x 2
EcoTech Battery Backup
Plenty of CaribSea LifeRock

Plan to add dosing pumps in the near future.

B1908E02-9846-4761-8D1A-AA91C5ED6084.jpeg DAFC3DED-6BE2-4101-B354-D38297DC4D31.jpeg
Super. Following.

My S21500 sitting in a warehouse. Build delayed:disappointed-face:. Looking at July 2022
 
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Wingzinco

Wingzinco

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Finally getting around to the start of the build.

Had a friend help me unpack and move the tank and stand from my garage. Shipping company sent the two pieces stacked, but clearly states “Do Not Stack” on the packing slips. I wasn’t worried since I’ve seen this on many other posts, so kept the faith. It was a bit of a pain to move with the metal trim and height of the stand box. If you deal with this, I highly recommend having an interim stage that might let you re-grip, or give you a break from the metal trim. ;)

Unboxing wasn’t too bad and everything arrived in great condition it seems. Moving the stand in was a bit awkward, but a four-wheel dolly was the star of the show. Simple rental from Home Depot for 10 bucks and I would have paid more. Sump side is, obviously, heavier than the cabinet side, so keep this in mind. We removed it from the crate, but kept it wrapped with styrofoam, tape, and cardboard edge pieces. The doors would easily swing open without this, so definitely leave this. I have a few small level adjustments to made, which I realized more once the tank was on, but it’s really close out of the box.

With experience prying open the first crate, it made for faster work on the tank. Less sweating and cursing too. :) Since the tank was the lower piece on the pallet, that helped, considering it’s far heavier than the stand. Getting the crating and styrofoam off, out came the suction cups and dolly. One suction cup was losing vacuum a little and popped off once (thankfully low), so be on the look out. Worked out fine and gave it extra pumps before lifting, but this was a scary part. Once we got moved it next to the stand, we used a piano bench to give us a mid-point to reposition the suction cups and make sure they had a strong suction. This stand is taller than any stand I’ve ever had, it’s awesome, but takes a little more effort to lift the tank on. Once on and positioned, I’m pretty sure I saw a blue glow and heard a choir, but it might have just been me.

Next moves:
  • Buy a stool
  • Cut out the filter sock area and replace it with the ClariSea
  • Clean the tank and install plumbing
  • Remove the power strips and replace with the Hydro Controller and Hydro Power Strip
  • Build the aquascape outside of the tank



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Wingzinco

Wingzinco

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Removing a sump baffle and adding the ClariSea roller mat

Maybe a boring update, but hopefully helpful for someone down the road. A lot of work for what seems like a small adjustment, but a step needed to move forward.

I needed to remove the glass baffle that separated the intake chamber from the filter sock chamber, as I'm using a ClariSea SK-300 Gen 3 rollermat in place of the socks. I did a good amount of research before tackling this, but only found a couple examples of doing it with a Cade.

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The collection of tools that helped me finally remove the baffle after several attempts (guitar string not pictured):

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I started with the black, flip-out, utility knife in an attempt to get rid of the exposed silicone on both the vertical baffle and the horizontal glass pieces that hold the filter sock drop-in in place. It helped here, but the blade itself is far too thick to make any headway with the silicon between the edge of the baffle and the sump wall. This was the last action this blade saw.

I had researched and saw that Red Sea offered a sump modification kit, that included thinner, metal, utility "knife" options but I was hoping to solve this without have to place the order. Reading different threads, I saw it suggested that an auto feeler gauge could be used to get between the glass and cut through the silicone bond or that you could use a measuring tape (if you're willing to cut it), to do the same. On paper, it makes sense since it's not easy to find thin metal that's stiff enough to make movement through this space. I tried both. Feeler gauge didn't do much for me. I trimmed the thinner pieces to make a point that might penetrate the silicone and this worked a tiny bit, but there was no leverage with holding the main gauge housing since there's no way to lock the blade you are using. Also, know that the blades are oiled and that creates some issue with spread, getting on gloves/hands, smell, etc. Next, I tried the measuring tape and I have to say this worked better than I expected. It helped me make some progress on the edges that had enough space between the glass (filled with silicone), but this is not the thin metal needed for all sides. I sacrificed the measuring tape and glad I did.

After making some progress here, I tried a high B or E guitar string to make my way through the silicone further. This also helped me get through the bottom silicone and the side closest to the back of the sump. So, at this point, I was getting there, but becoming really frustrated with the one side, as it was so closely connected that nothing would fit between the edge of the baffle and the next chamber (macro algae).

While trying different approaches, I had ordered the Red Sea sump modification kit in hopes it would offer some solution to my problem and help with the glass ledges that held the filter socks in place, since there was a lot of silicone between the glass on these. Turns out, the money spent did nothing for me the the side of the baffle, still too tight. It did, absolutely help be remove the filter sock ledges and help me make cleaner separation with the bottom and side of the baffle I was able to get through earlier. I definitely missed some here and this helped clear out excess silicone and guarantee a separation end-to-end.

So, I was out of ideas on the last side to break free. It was so closely bonded, I wasn't sure if there was silicone there or some other glue. I had tried a hair dryer earlier, but didn't seem to help much, so I didn't go back to it. My wife suggested using a hot glue gun, without the glue, along the seam and maybe that would free it up. Genius! It took me about 5 minutes of running the hot gun along the seam before I was able to bend it away and finally break it free. Success! What a PITA, but glad.

I spent some more time getting the sock ledges removed, which was a matter of trying different sizes of blades from the Red Sea kit to work my way through. I did decide to pull the hair dryer out again here as the silicone surface area is greater than just an edge of a baffle and I think it helped me carve through easier. Do be careful with these, I used a blade that was too thick to start and actually broke the ledge piece while trying. The pressure from pressing between the pieces of glass was too much, and I'm glad it broke and not my main chamber baffle instead. Start thin, go slow.

The Red Sea kit also included a scrapper tool, which you could probably buy anywhere, but it was helpful for removing the remaining silicone residue. Also note that I wouldn't expect the kit to last more than one job unless you are extremely careful. Most of the supplied blades ended up bending or breaking, but they did their job and that's all I care about. I'll gladly buy again if need be.

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After constructing the ClariSea and hanging in the space.


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There were hours spent and curses declared, but in the end, it was a success. One step forward.

Plumbing is next.
 

Kurant

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I recently ordered the 1500 S2, and I was curious about doing the Clarisea. The width is the same size in the compartment on your sump and 1500's sump even though the 1500, it's a slightly longer due to a 3rd sock.. Do you think the SK5000 would fit? It looks like a tight squeeze with the 3000..
 
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Wingzinco

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I recently ordered the 1500 S2, and I was curious about doing the Clarisea. The width is the same size in the compartment on your sump and 1500's sump even though the 1500, it's a slightly longer due to a 3rd sock.. Do you think the SK5000 would fit? It looks like a tight squeeze with the 3000..
Yep, I think you'll be fine. The SK5000 is the same depth as the SK3000 at 5.7 inches. I'm not sure why Cade lists that section as 125mm/4.9in, because it absolutely is not. It's just a bit over 6.5in deep. It is a tight fit, only because the stand frame comes into play. I have maybe a 1/5 of an inch from the front baffle (with the ClariSea hanger against the frame), but there is ~4/5 to the back, past the frame. I hung it on that side since the overflow is directly above. I do wish I could hang it on the back sump glass to have more position options, though.
 
AquaSD

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Yep, I think you'll be fine. The SK5000 is the same depth as the SK3000 at 5.7 inches. I'm not sure why Cade lists that section as 125mm/4.9in, because it absolutely is not. It's just a bit over 6.5in deep. It is a tight fit, only because the stand frame comes into play. I have maybe a 1/5 of an inch from the front baffle (with the ClariSea hanger against the frame), but there is ~4/5 to the back, past the frame. I hung it on that side since the overflow is directly above. I do wish I could hang it on the back sump glass to have more position options, though.
Thank you for sharing this build. I am looking at fitting a clarisea sk5000 in my Cade 1200 S2 but I don't think it would fit. The measurements from the filter sock compartment are indeed 12.5cm.. Do you have the S1 or the S2? This might make a difference. Now I'm not sure which filter roller to get. Thoughts?
 
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