it's all clicking now Bill... corals,coralline growing,eating it up.
you just going to adjust dosing up slowly to accommodate ?
below 8 scares me...;Wideyed
you just going to adjust dosing up slowly to accommodate ?
below 8 scares me...;Wideyed
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That's were the spikes are coming from, me dosing 100ml to raise it. I am about to add another 100ml to raise it more. I like to keep my Alk in the high 7's at least, but, usually ran it in the high 8's. I don't want to simply raise my dose level yet as I don't want precipitation. I had my Cal dose turned off the past 3 weeks to allow my cal to drop, so that may have effected it some. I just turned my Cal dose back on.it's all clicking now Bill... corals,coralline growing,eating it up.
you just going to adjust dosing up slowly to accommodate ?
below 8 scares me...;Wideyed
It’s even more amazing after 12 months!Its amazing how easy the MP wetsides come apart when you don't wait 6 months to clean them.
There could have been something dislodged in the flow meter when you turned the pump on.This is a little confusing. The flow meter on my right return changed 2 times while I simply turned off my flow pumps to clean.
I have officially mounted my 1st 4 SPS frags.Things are looking pretty good, but you need to get some coral in that tank!!
My wrasse would do the same thing. They also follow me around cleaning glass or sand.On a funnier note, when I feed my LPS I noticed my Eightline Flasher wrasse eating the mucus that was sent out by my WWC Rainbow blastos. I was thinking that was odd, UNTIL, I realized the wrasse was smarter than I thought. The mucus collects the Reef Roids that was soaked in Aminos, and the wrasse was getting a big dose of both. Fish are smarter than we think sometimes.
i'd say yes ,on valve for 2nd return, flow meter ?? your call...
So are both of you saying that the single valve in red would be enough to balance out the returns, or add another valve that is circled in yellow? I figured with the reactor manifold piped into the left return that is circled in white would cause the imbalance, thus adding the valve in red.Agree in second valve. If flow sensor is in line before the split you can use one if your flow doesn’t exceed sensor. If it is after the split two are needed.
Thank you, Merry Christmas to you and your family as well.
Thanks for the offer, but, I am switching to GHL flow sensors. I already purchased 2 GHL flow sensors, just trying to figure out how to do the plumbing with the least amount of head pressure. I am converting it all to 1 1/4 pvc.If I’m following you correctly I think you want a valve in the yellow. I try and not use a manifold or feed anything of a return pump because they all change when one changes and in return the water level in overflow gets effected.
You want flow sensor mounted close to tank bulkhead? Then two is needed. One for each return. I have a spare Neptune 1” new in open box If you need.
Switch to gel sensor maybe a smart move.Thanks for the offer, but, I am switching to GHL flow sensors. I already purchased 2 GHL flow sensors, just trying to figure out how to do the plumbing with the least amount of head pressure. I am converting it all to 1 1/4 pvc.
I am running 2 Cor 20's with separate 1 in returns and was disappointed in the GPH. I am switching to a single Abyzz A200. I may move one of the Cor 20's to my UV sterilizer, I will not run it off of the manifold. I like the GHL flow sensors because they have no moving parts.Switch to gel sensor maybe a smart move.
I did my returns in 1 1/4” and surprised how well cor20 flows over 1” I used on smaller tanks.