Bulkhead or over the top return?

[Acro maniac]

Im challenged with this step of a current build that is being drawn up.
I have a new 180 marineland tank i purchased, no holes. The reason i bought it with no holes was to go with a shadow overflow system ( on order).
This weekend ill be building a standand next is plumbing.
So my question is..... if i drill the tank for loc line return and install a bulkhead. How much clearance do i need from the back of the tank to the wall? I would think the distance of the bulkhead then a threaded coupler connected to a 90. Looks like in and around 4" if im not mistaken. Is this the only option? Or is there another way to makr the connection with less pieces?
If i go with over the back. What are some of the ways you could secure them to the tank? I will be starting a build thread soon as things start progressing. Some help in these preliminary stages would be great.

 

[Syntax1235]

The depth of the shadow box will give you plenty of space for the bulkhead and 90 degree elbow. I'm using a Modular Marine on my 180 with the box against the wall and have plenty of room.

 

[Acro maniac]

Thanks for the feed back. i looked up your overflow similar style. good to know

 

[ca1ore]

Bag the loc line though. All it does is restrict pump flow. If you do drill the return, make sure your sump can handle the backflow.

 

[don_chuwish]

Yep, with a "Shadow" or "Ghost" overflow, no worries about the returns:

 

[Acro maniac]

Nice job i like the clean look. Black and grey. Also looks like you have a 90 screwed into the bulkhead. That'll save the extra space i was concerned with lossing. Thanks for all the responses

 

[Acro maniac]

I actually was thinking of just screwing a reducer and 3/4 ,45* in the bulkhead and calling it good.
Also ill have wye check valves on the returns. And the stand will have a retainer in yhe bottom in case a loos of power and the check valves fail .
But yes the sump should be able to recieve all back flow until siphon breaks.

 

[Skydvr]

The check valves will more than likely become bio-fouled and fail fairly quickly without regular diassembly and maintenance. I haven't heard of many people that are happy with their installation of check valves in aquariums. At least not from anybody that has had them installed long term.

 

[Rakie]

The check valves will more than likely become bio-fouled and fail fairly quickly without regular diassembly and maintenance. I haven't heard of many people that are happy with their installation of check valves in aquariums. At least not from anybody that has had them installed long term.

gold right here

 

[Acro maniac]

The check valves will more than likely become bio-fouled and fail fairly quickly without regular diassembly and maintenance. I haven't heard of many people that are happy with their installation of check valves in aquariums. At least not from anybody that has had them installed long term.

I understand the concern with maintenance, but the wye style check valve serms to be easy to maintain. Due to not having to remove the whole valve . Also i do a water change every week so when all the pumps are off ill see any leak by. For me it seems to be a good option . I personally would not want to rely on any mechanical part you cant maintian/ test to keep my floor dry.

 

[Rakie]

I understand the concern with maintenance, but the wye style check valve serms to be easy to maintain. Due to not having to remove the whole valve . Also i do a water change every week so when all the pumps are off ill see any leak by. For me it seems to be a good option . I personally would not want to rely on any mechanical part you cant maintian/ test to keep my floor dry.

it's even easier to not have to rely or maintain on anything.

If you're doing an over the top return, drill a tiny 3/16 hole JUST below the water line. Soon as water level lowers, air sucked in, syphon stops. Zero maintenance, and a TINY hole will not change the GPH coming out of the return.

 

[Acro maniac]

it's even easier to not have to rely or maintain on anything.

If you're doing an over the top return, drill a tiny 3/16 hole JUST below the water line. Soon as water level lowers, air sucked in, syphon stops. Zero maintenance, and a TINY hole will not change the GPH coming out of the return.

If i did over the top return what would be some other benifets.
Also what is a good way to secure it to the tank?
Just a thought but a tiny hole seems like would clog easy, (coraline / algae).

 

[Rakie]

If i did over the top return what would be some other benifets.
Also what is a good way to secure it to the tank?
Just a thought but a tiny hole seems like would clog easy, (coraline / algae).

Nah it hasn't clogged on me as water is rushing out of it. Also, I misread, I thought you were doing the over the top for sure -- In truth, there's not really any benefits for doing the U shaped overflow. In fact, only minor cons. I secured mine by a zip tie connected to my light tree (conduit light hanger connected to stand).

I would definitely drill --

 

[Acro maniac]

I like the finished look of the drilled, so thats why im favoring it

 

[KJAG]

What size will your return plumbing into the tank be?

 

[Acro maniac]

What size will your return plumbing into the tank be?

Not a 100 % yet but it seems like its gonna be 1in

 

[KJAG]

Not a 100 % yet but it seems like its gonna be 1in

As an Acro Maniac, I'd personally go 1.5" and ditch the loc line. Is your back pane painted? I'd consider a simple downturned elbow(s) painted black if you have a painted back and rely on powerheads for your in-display flow.
Just my 0.2

High pressure=low volume, low pressure= high volume.

 

[Acro maniac]

Back wall will be painted black. Also after some thought i have liked the idea of tossing the locline and just possibly putting a pvc 45* on both bulkheads. Maybe a very short piece of pipe. But right now doubt it. Ill have to see.
The idea making this thread was to see if there was something i was overlooking about the over the top design. I didn't understand why some would choose that over bulkhead style.

 

[Acro maniac]

Also i dont want to go bigger than 1in . The pump will must likly be a 1in out, and another thing is the inlet on the chiller is 3/4

 

[Skydvr]

I looked at the reverse checkvalve setup on Melv's Reef that someone posted. Pretty ingenious and simple for preventing/limiting backsiphon.

Of course the simple solution, in most cases, is to just design the sump to handle the extra volume plus some extra to handle things like a change in the level of the return section (pump area of the sump), adding something like an algae turf scrubber or larger skimmer that takes up more room and displaces volume for water, an ATO fault that raises the water level in the sump slightly, or changing the orientation/height of the returns, which causes more water to siphon from the display.

The sump on my first pico (stand behind sump) didn't account for the siphon having to drop almost to the bottom of the return outlet to fully break the siphon, so if the ATO had just triggered, I'd lose some water over a section I had to notch out to clear the primary drain.