Calling all RO/DI users

[Mr.Guy83]

Happy thanksgiving everyone!
I’m setting up a reefer 170 next month and decide this time around I’m going to step my game up and make my own water instead of loading the car with five gallon jugs. I’ve watch several videos of how to install it under a sink and it seems pretty straight forward. But as luck would have it under my sink looks completely different than EVERY video I’ve watch. Typically it seems you need to unscrew, add the adapter an reconnect the hose. However mine looks like a different type of connection/fitting . Mine almost seems to be “crimped “ on for a lack of better words. I’ve attached pictures and any advice on how to fix this would be appreciated.

 

[Doctorgori]

you could swap out the valve w/o too much hub-bub ..
I’ve seen them put copper compression on 1/2”CPVC ..
it actually works
OR cut and glue a slip on a new CPVC valve with the right fitting. You will need a new valve to faucet hose
You will need a new hose, CPVC slip valve, CPVC glue (its yellow), steel wool or sandpaper

Hopefully someone else chimes in with a better solution as mine is to R&R that valve...
FWIW they also make a “Tap”. for a drain using existing plumbing. I know they got one for copper and the PVC

 

[Justin Cook]

I don't have any better recommendations beyond what's been posted but if you need a hand with anything and are anywhere close to the ATL metro area, hit me up. I've only recently started working with those pex fittings but a dear friend in Flowery Branch just replumbed his fish room and has all the tools required.

 

[Mr.Guy83]

Thanks man, I’m in Lilburn right outside of Atlanta. Once I get my tank set up I will definitely take you up on that offer

 

[Shirak]

Are you looking to T off from the white pex tubing before the valve or the braided nylon hose after the valve? How you connect to the existing water line will partly depend on what type of fitting is on the RODI unit for the source water. Do you have that unit already?

 

[Mr.Guy83]

Are you looking to T off from the white pex tubing before the valve or the braided nylon hose after the valve? How you connect to the existing water line will partly depend on what type of fitting is on the RODI unit for the source water. Do you have that unit already?

In theory this is how I wanted to set mine up. Based on the video you simple unscrew the white hose and place the black tee in the middle but as you can see from my pic there is not location to unscrew mine, unless I’m grossly overlooking something.

 

[Mr.Guy83]

In theory this is how I wanted to set mine up. Based on the video you simple unscrew the white hose and place the black tee in the middle but as you can see from my pic there is not location to unscrew mine, unless I’m grossly overlooking something. Based on other videos this would be the connection point but mine doesn’t unscrew. Unless like I said I’m grossly overlooked something

 

[Shirak]

I think you are correct, it looks like the line is crimped on. You might be able to replace the valve and line from the valve to the faucet but I think the connection on the otherside of the valve to the PEX is probably a PEX crimp too. IF it's not then it might be an easy swap out to a valve with a threaded fitting for the sink supply line.

I am thinking.. Sharkbite brass T on the vertical PEX. Looks like 1/2" There is a shutoff valve towards the bottom of the cabinet it appears.

The sharkbite brass T will work on any rigid OD 1/2" pipe. For the T part I would get a small piece of 1/2 CPVC to connect into the T of the sharkbite. On the other side you can get a CPVC 1/2" female threaded fitting and glue it on. From there you would need a 1/2" male threaded fitting to 1/4" pushlock adapter which they should have in the plumbing section of lowes/HD

 

[Shirak]

oh link to sharkbite T https://www.sharkbite.com/products/brass-push-tee-0

 

[Shirak]

The adapter for 1/4" tubing https://www.homedepot.com/p/John-Gu...h-to-Connect-Adapter-Fitting-803309/300753463

 

[Mr.Guy83]

I think you are correct, it looks like the line is crimped on. You might be able to replace the valve and line from the valve to the faucet but I think the connection on the otherside of the valve to the PEX is probably a PEX crimp too. IF it's not then it might be an easy swap out to a valve with a threaded fitting for the sink supply line.

I am thinking.. Sharkbite brass T on the vertical PEX. Looks like 1/2" There is a shutoff valve towards the bottom of the cabinet it appears.

The sharkbite brass T will work on any rigid OD 1/2" pipe. For the T part I would get a small piece of 1/2 CPVC to connect into the T of the sharkbite. On the other side you can get a CPVC 1/2" female threaded fitting and glue it on. From there you would need a 1/2" male threaded fitting to 1/4" pushlock adapter which they should have in the plumbing section of lowes/HD

Thank you! I appreciate all the input I’ll give this a try.

 

[Shirak]

I had an alternate idea too.. replacing the valve instead with a sharkbite valve that has the threaded hose connector. Not sure exactly what size threaded end you would want though. so this is just an example. It looks like there would be enough PEX if you were to remove the other valve at that point. https://www.homedepot.com/p/SharkBi...uarter-Turn-Angle-Stop-Valve-K23036/313331754

So a couple different ideas for you ..

 

[xxkenny90xx]

How about a quick fix with a faucet adapter that replaces your aerator? Something like this

 

[Shirak]

That would certainly work too!

I used a faucet adapter for years. Eventually I had to put a line in the basement which is unfinished.. I had a bad tendency to forget buckets were filling and then overflow all over the kitchen

IF you are going with an under counter install how are you going to run the waste water to the drain? And how do you plan to collect the RODI? Also keep in mind you want to be able to service the unit fairly easily to change filters and resin etc.

Things to think about!