Complete Newb with a Biocube 32

[BubblesandSqueak]

Hi everyone, I'm Paul and Live in Maine, Newb to Salt Water. been reading through many posts here and also watching Youtube Videos. Always had a dream for 40+ years to have a salt water tank. Seemed really complex back then and still confused on the multitude of chemicals to adjust everything. But I want to make this happen finally.

I bought the Biocube 32 because it is all contained to hide everything since this is going in the living room and also need the cover since I have cat paws that will be interested. So far my set up has:

(the light is on only for the pictures, off to prevent algae)

*30lbs Life Rock (1/2 the height of the tank)
*40lbs Carib Bahamas live sand (~2") (and collapsed the air pockets)
*NutriSeaWater
*Aqueon Pro 150 heater
*Intank Filter with floss and Marine Pure (will add Chemipure-blue after it cycles)
*intank fuge (empty but unsure if copepods or chaeto in future)
*API Quickstart and a pinch of marine flakes food, then after a week I added Coralife Marine pure (I was waiting till intank and Marine Pure ceramic bio balls came in mail but used the stock biocube filter till then to catch any sand before it hits the pump)
*Hygger wave 951
*APC UPS 1500 (shows it will run 171 minutes when on battery in case I'm not home to run the house generator)
*magnet glass cleaner (is this tank really glass? it looks like acrylic since it has the formed edge)
*Imagitarium 20-55gal vacuum
*API Reef Testing kit with added Ammonia and Nitrite test
*magnetic defroster for food
*intank Fish Saver (why in the world would Coralife not take care of this?)

After 2 weeks, all my testing shows the numbers where they should be except my SG says 1.028? I used pre-mixed water and doesn't look like anything has evaporated. I have fresh RO water (from Whole Foods) to dilute but is there an easy calculator? I believe I have 25 gallons in there? I bought the live water to make it quicker to cycle but in the future would premix. Life rock to avoid stowaways.

My "wants" plan:
2 clowns
cleaner shrimp
snail
Zoe
anenome
Nudibranch (if compatible)

Do you think if I bring the salinity down to 1.024, Its ready? Can I get the clowns first then the shrimp and snail? Or should I get the shrimp and snail first? People seem to say you can do either. I heard Petco tests water, should I bring it there to confirm my testing? I'm not sure about a skimmer since I believe it would have to be Biocubes since I do not want to modify by cutting plastic and don't want to hang it outside.

Are there any other immediate needs? if chaeto, I have no idea how to attach the small grow light appropriately or which one. I don't think I need a chiller since the house is Central Air unless the cube light would over heat the tank?

Here are pictures of the reef. it goes through as a tunnel and cave.

I would love any input good or bad to avoid potential issues. I don't want to modify (cutting etc...) the Biocube for resale but if all this works was thinking to do a 200gal if I can contain everything inside the enclosed stand so I don't see it and it's protected from little curious paws and use the Biocube as a quarantine for new fish etc...

Thanks, Paul

 

[Kristopher Conlin]

Welcome to Reef2Reef!!

That's a great looking tank so far! Nice job!

It may not look like any evaporation has happened in the display. But that's because the water level will remain at the height of the overflow into the rear chambers. It's actually there that the water level will go down.

 

[JC1977]

 

[fishguy242]

Hi , welcome to the reef...

 

[vetteguy53081]

 

[Stephen8169301]

 

[Cary Meredith]

welcome, setting up a biocube myself

 

[Cary Meredith]

I'm just getting started but have 3 other salt tanks, 125 gallon, 5 gallon and 1 1/2 gallon

 

[Buckster]

Welcome to R2R! I would start off by taking out a quart of salt water and replacing it with a quart of RO. Check the new salinity. You might have to do this a few times but that's how I would do it. I believe there is a calculation on exactly how much but I couldn't find it.

 

[BubblesandSqueak]

I'm so looking forward to seeing the fishies in there. I read so many things on first additions. Like Clowns to start ammonia first and also clean up crew to go easy and break the tank in. Is it OK to start with two 1" clowns so they're paired and small enough to handle this? tomorrow I'll re-adjust salinity and monitor for another week.

This floating thermometer I'm going to replace. Didn't really want to take up window real estate viewing space but thinking the Capetsma through the glass digital.

 

[shakacuz]

welcome aboard the r2r board!

 

[jsker]

 

[danenelsen]

 

[findingsimple]

G’day Paul! Welcome!

 

[CoralB]

Welcome!!!

 

[SPR1968]

Welcome to Reef2Reef Paul!

 

[Nano_Man]

 

[dmsc2fs]

The rear chamber on the left side should have a indicator that shows water level. Mark it with some painters tape and a pencil and add a few cups of fresh water. Check your salinity and repeat. Once you hit your target salinity you can mark that spot and from that point on you can always top up with fresh water to bring the rear chamber back to that level to maintain your salinity.

As you go through this process don't forget you have a 32 gallon tank. All I mean by that is when you are trying to solve problems that crop up don't forget that 10 gallon water change is 33% of the water and will make a huge difference. Water changes before chemicals should always be considered when you are talking about smaller water volumes.

 

[BubblesandSqueak]

The rear chamber on the left side should have a indicator that shows water level. Mark it with some painters tape and a pencil and add a few cups of fresh water. Check your salinity and repeat. Once you hit your target salinity you can mark that spot and from that point on you can always top up with fresh water to bring the rear chamber back to that level to maintain your salinity.

As you go through this process don't forget you have a 32 gallon tank. All I mean by that is when you are trying to solve problems that crop up don't forget that 10 gallon water change is 33% of the water and will make a huge difference. Water changes before chemicals should always be considered when you are talking about smaller water volumes.

isn't it a 10% water change not 10gal that's recommended? That would make 3.3 gallon change but plan to use the left over jugs from the pre-made NutriSea which are 4.4 so basically 4 gallon changes. One empty jug to house the vacuum and drain the rest then the the other would be the replacement. Another RO jug for the salinity drop dilution. I did just check the low water window and it's not even visible there yet. looks to be another 3" before it comes into view. I'll re-check SG with this Instant Ocean device then dig out the Home Brewing glass hydrometer and see where that shows for comparison. Maybe my plastic one is off too.

 

[dmsc2fs]

I wasn't specifically saying you should always do a 10g water change. I was more pointing out that a water change in anything smaller than 50g tanks is a pretty easy thing to do at first sings of tank distress. a 4 gallon water change would be just fine. it's easy to haul around.