Corals and PAR

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ShepherdReefer

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Greeting everyone, recently we have started adding coral to our fish only system. There are a few corals that did not make the shipping and/or possible because our PAR was not correct for each coral. To date, we have the following corals in our system with PAR readings:
Aussie golden eye chalice 160 (not looking so good)
J.F. Lethal Lepto. 160
Dragon's Envy Favia 150
Yellow Gonipora 160
High Voltage Clove Polyps 30 (not looking great)
Pink Lady Gonipora 130
TG Watermelon Psammocora 190
Toxic Halo Favia 105
Neon Splatter Hammered Frog 120
Yoda Acro 250
Green Bubble Tip anemone The PAR depends on where he moves...lol

Just wondering who out there with a ton of experience can take a look at these PAR readings per coral and see if I am correct. I do know there are a few that need to be moved like the Aussie Golden Eye Chalice and the High Voltage Clove Polyps. These readings are taken at the peak of the day around 1418

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lapin

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Corals can adapt to higher light levels over time. It depends on what they were grown under as to what to start them at. Better lower than higher
 
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ShepherdReefer

ShepherdReefer

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Hello Lapin, that is true but I still wonder if a light can be too bright on a coral. We have an Aussie Golden Eye Chalice that was awesome for the first month but all of a sudden does not look too good. According to some websites, the PAR should be around 80, and other websites state something different. Another example, High Voltage Clove Polyps look great but is the PAR of 30 good enough where these same websites state the PAR should be around 50-100.
 
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ShepherdReefer

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Here is what I have found out regarding corals that require low, moderate, or high lighting. Of course, they can adapt to levels higher or lower than recommended.
  • Low < 100
  • Moderate 100 – 200
  • High 250 – 300
  • Intense 300 – 400
  • Extreme > 400
 
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