Current Quarantine Protocol

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Jay Hemdal

Jay Hemdal

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Im not asking to cut QT short, im just saying given certain fish are sensitive to copper is there any drawbacks to easing into copper over a period of 2 to 3 days rather than hitting 2.25ppm in under 24 hours.
If you are using amine chelated copper, you don’t need to ramp up slowly, that’s old advice from using ionic copper.

You just need to add it in controlled portions in order to reach a proper dose - that takes most folks 24 hours.

LFS acclimate fish right into full copper all the time.
 

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This is probably a silly question and may have been covered before but couldn't find it so...

What's the longest the "free swimming" stage of ich/velvet/brook/other? could live on a dry surface?

I'm thinking in terms of equipment, like conductivity probe that you use in QT, then rinse with freshwater and dry, then want to put back into normal (non-QT) use.
*dry out is likely critical but then are we talking minutes/hours or is there some survival method whereby some infectious parasite could still be problematic longer than that?

EDIT -- my question relates to fishless, invert QT so no chance (I think) of tomonts/trophonts on the equipment in question
 
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This is probably a silly question and may have been covered before but couldn't find it so...

What's the longest the "free swimming" stage of ich/velvet/brook/other? could live on a dry surface?

I'm thinking in terms of equipment, like conductivity probe that you use in QT, then rinse with freshwater and dry, then want to put back into normal (non-QT) use.
*dry out is likely critical but then are we talking minutes/hours or is there some survival method whereby some infectious parasite could still be problematic longer than that?

EDIT -- my question relates to fishless, invert QT so no chance (I think) of tomonts/trophonts on the equipment in question

24 hours of total dryness will kill ALL reproductive stages of marine protozoans. Even fluke eggs cannot survive drying like that. Here is the issue though - seawater is hydroscopic - it doesn't dry out well. You need to rinse/soak off ALL of the seawater with fresh water, and then completely dry the material for 24 hours. This is especially important with porous surfaces like rock and sand.
 

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24 hours of total dryness will kill ALL reproductive stages of marine protozoans. Even fluke eggs cannot survive drying like that. Here is the issue though - seawater is hydroscopic - it doesn't dry out well. You need to rinse/soak off ALL of the seawater with fresh water, and then completely dry the material for 24 hours. This is especially important with porous surfaces like rock and sand.
Jay is copper power effective at above 2.0? Is the 2.25 just a buffer so you dont over dose or under dose as well as to account for testing errors?
Im currently running 2 tanks one qt 2.20 and other at 2.18, is that sufficient or does it need to be bumped up?

I also have a bucket for water changes at 2.35

On a side note are these dots normal on a juvenile-ish Naso
20260702_135645.jpg
 
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Jay is copper power effective at above 2.0? Is the 2.25 just a buffer so you dont over dose or under dose as well as to account for testing errors?
Im currently running 2 tanks one qt 2.20 and other at 2.18, is that sufficient or does it need to be bumped up?

I also have a bucket for water changes at 2.35

On a side note are these dots normal on a juvenile-ish Naso
20260702_135645.jpg

Correct - the 2.25 dose is to allow for variation in testing methods. For moderate active infections I often dose at 2.5, but I'm confident that my testing is accurate. We've found that around 2 ppm, copper power takes longer to cure and sometimes fails.
 

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Correct - the 2.25 dose is to allow for variation in testing methods. For moderate active infections I often dose at 2.5, but I'm confident that my testing is accurate. We've found that around 2 ppm, copper power takes longer to cure and sometimes fails.
My hippo and sohal seel to have some white spots should i just keep it within the range that I have it on right now or try to bump it up a notch
 
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My hippo and sohal seel to have some white spots should i just keep it within the range that I have it on right now or try to bump it up a notch

You're fine at that level - your water change water ill bump it up a little at the next water change.
 

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