Dinoflagellates – Are You Tired Of Battling Altogether?

[Javamahn]

@Javamahn did you win the fight again your particular strain of Dinos?

Not yet but getting there Amphinidium at 5 months now. At least they are much less toxic. Plenty of GHA and stable N&P I have been slack on manual cleaning of LR. Already pulled out 70% of sandbed so only traces of them

 

[Deezill]

My scope came in and I used a pipette right on a rock and pick up a sample if this does not look like a strain of dino let me know I probably
got something else i dunno. Here goes.

ID Please:

Here is another for ID:

 

[karo25]

So here is what I found under the microscope:
If there was any doubt before... I don't think there is now.
Amphidinium?

 

[piehunter]

So here is what I found under the microscope:
If there was any doubt before... I don't think there is now.
Amphidinium?

Yep sure does look like Amphidinium .. does it move like this under the microscope ?

 

[reeferfoxx]

My scope came in and I used a pipette right on a rock and pick up a sample if this does not look like a strain of dino let me know I probably
got something else i dunno. Here goes.

ID Please:

Here is another for ID:

This one looks like Coolia.

So here is what I found under the microscope:
If there was any doubt before... I don't think there is now.
Amphidinium?

This looks like Ostreopsis.

 

[Deezill]

Ok I guess I will search this thread for Coolia. Anyone else have any input please feel free to chime in. Thank you @reeferfoxx

 

[Deezill]

So a UV sterilizer is effective against the coolia strain? I have have filter socks. Mine are 200 micron. I also have carbon reactor and BRS carbon am I missing anything to fight this coolia strain? let me know thanks.

 

[reeferfoxx]

Ok I guess I will search this thread for Coolia. Anyone else have any input please feel free to chime in. Thank you @reeferfoxx

No problem.

So a UV sterilizer is effective against the coolia strain? I have have filter socks. Mine are 200 micron. I also have carbon reactor and BRS carbon am I missing anything to fight this coolia strain? let me know thanks.

Actually, my tank has coolia. It's not necessarily getting rid of it but controlling it. This one thrives on improper or imbalanced parameters and especially imbalanced nutrients.

When I first had it, my bio load was low. My phosphates climbed and my nitrates zeroed. I increased fish and increased nitrates and that's helped a lot. UV helps with knocking it back but doesn't have over night effects like other strains of dinos.

 

[karo25]

Yep sure does look like Amphidinium .. does it move like this under the microscope ?

I did see a few moving like that.

 

[reeferfoxx]

@karo25

I actually don't see any amphidinium in your pictures. In fact the sesame seed shape with the white tips is dominant characteristic of Ostreopsis.

 

[Deezill]

No problem.



Actually, my tank has coolia. It's not necessarily getting rid of it but controlling it. This one thrives on improper or imbalanced parameters and especially imbalanced nutrients.

When I first had it, my bio load was low. My phosphates climbed and my nitrates zeroed. I increased fish and increased nitrates and that's helped a lot. UV helps with knocking it back but doesn't have over night effects like other strains of dinos.

This was my problem too. My nitrates were undetectable and so were my phosphates. My bioload was very low.
What is the main thing I should be doing to combat this. I don't want to purchase a UV if I dont really need it.
I ahve got my nitrates up to 10ppm and I have phosphates measuring at 0.50 now. What is the main course of action I should be doing to combat this thing?

 

[karo25]

@karo25

I actually don't see any amphidinium in your pictures. In fact the sesame seed shape with the white tips is dominant characteristic of Ostreopsis.



Excellent point! I'll go back and review those descriptions again.

 

[reeferfoxx]

This was my problem too. My nitrates were undetectable and so were my phosphates. My bioload was very low.
What is the main thing I should be doing to combat this. I don't want to purchase a UV if I dont really need it.
I ahve got my nitrates up to 10ppm and I have phosphates measuring at 0.50 now. What is the main course of action I should be doing to combat this thing?

I'll say your phosphates don't need to be that high. I would let them fall naturally and just monitor nitrates. Don't run any nutrient reducing media, don't dose trace elements, and just give it time. Keep in mind, when focused on nitrates, if you dose nitrates, phosphates can reduce. Also, keep turning the sandbed over and turkey basting them off the rocks. Change out filter floss daily and be mindful of what goes in the tank. Your other focus is to add some good live rock pieces, maybe some mud and live sand from Indio pacific farms. Increasing diversity and maintaining optimal water quality is your main focus. I know UV can get expensive but, I used a UV Green Machine from Petsmart and it helped. Just place it in the display. Don't let cyano and green hair algae thrive as it will throw your nutrients off. however, the focus is to grow those algaes to help out compete.

 

[karo25]

@karo25

I actually don't see any amphidinium in your pictures. In fact the sesame seed shape with the white tips is dominant characteristic of Ostreopsis.

@reeferfoxx
I think you might be right. This is what I could see.
(Sorry for the shaky video)

 

[awais98]

Such a large thread .
Is there a summary somewhere?

 

[karo25]

My system is 100 gallon

So I have a 55w UV sterilizer that will be here tomorrow and though my system has copepods, I've ordered some more that will be here Saturday.
I'll be running a 300 gph pump that can be turned down.

I read the range of around 280 gph is appropriate for this, is that right?
Right now the majority of the Dinos are in my refugium, should I still be blowing of the rocks and stirring the sand daily?
I don't normally run socks on my return but have had them on for the last 4 days, changing them out daily.
I've also added 1 cup of carbon with the plan of changing that out weekly.
It certainly hasn't lessened the Dinos much in the refugium but I've not seen any strands increasing in the display.
Still struggling to keep Phosphate steady. I increase dosing and it goes up for a day then goes right back down again.
Nitrates are holding steady at 10.

Also: I read that Ostreopsis can be very toxic. Is this something I should be concerned about? I know I have to put my hands in the tank to do some of this maintenance, is there anything I can do to lessen the risk?

 

[kecked]

Three weeks now and nothing but a few tiny spots of Dino’s here and there. Galaxia opened up once again.

 

[reeferfoxx]

Such a large thread .
Is there a summary somewhere?

First post of this thread outlines the plan of action.

 

[reeferfoxx]

My system is 100 gallon

So I have a 55w UV sterilizer that will be here tomorrow and though my system has copepods, I've ordered some more that will be here Saturday.
I'll be running a 300 gph pump that can be turned down.

I read the range of around 280 gph is appropriate for this, is that right?
Right now the majority of the Dinos are in my refugium, should I still be blowing of the rocks and stirring the sand daily?
I don't normally run socks on my return but have had them on for the last 4 days, changing them out daily.
I've also added 1 cup of carbon with the plan of changing that out weekly.
It certainly hasn't lessened the Dinos much in the refugium but I've not seen any strands increasing in the display.
Still struggling to keep Phosphate steady. I increase dosing and it goes up for a day then goes right back down again.
Nitrates are holding steady at 10.

Also: I read that Ostreopsis can be very toxic. Is this something I should be concerned about? I know I have to put my hands in the tank to do some of this maintenance, is there anything I can do to lessen the risk?

I would turn the refugium off if nutrients are the issue. You may not need it now or in the immediate future.

Ostreopsis can be toxic, that's why we recommend GAC to reduce the toxins.

Sterile non powedered elbo or shoulder length gloves can eliminate having your hands in the tank.

The GPH for the UV should be stated on the box for your unit. It's best to have it draw water in from the display.

 

[Huntor0]

My 180G tank has been up and running for 2 years but with very minimal fish (6) and corals. I ran ROX .8 and GFO, 2 x 8” blocks or Marinepure ceramic blocks. Tank was setup with bleached rock and bacteria in a bottle. Things went smoothly until recently I had a large cyano outbreak and decided to use chemiclean to get rid of the cyano (never again). You guessed it a couple of weeks later in the newly sterilized tank boom Dino’s.

My dino’s were identified as Ostreopsis last week upon receiving my microscope, I have had them for 2-3 months.

Measures Taken over the last month:

• GFO taken offline.
• Marinepure blocks removed.
• Nitrates: 5-10 ppm for the last 3 weeks.
• Phosphates: 1.0-1.5 ppm for the last 3 weeks.
• Aqua UV 57W has been in the sump for 2 months but last week I plumbed it to the display tank, seems I am 3 watts shy of the 3 watts per gallon for my 180G display tank.
• 10 Micron filter socks changed daily and washed in Oxyclean.
• Marineland polishing filter added and cleaned / filter rotated weekly.
• 6 lbs. of fiji mud added this week.

Weekly I scrape all the Ostreopsis dino’s that are attached to the back glass and barebottom of the tank and filter them out with several 10 Micron socks changed frequently. And within a day or so they seem to grow right back. I am noticing after 3 weeks of dirty water conditions I am starting to see some red cyano appearing on the rocks and some green algae on the barebottom just before dino’s cover it up again.

I could use some guidance I would like to make sure I am not missing anything I should be doing.

Thank you for your time.