Dinoflagellates – Are You Tired Of Battling Altogether?

taricha

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I have more pics posted in my thread but here is a link to the video from my scope:
Yep. Remember now.
like @reeferfoxx said, strong visual evidence of chrysophytes, nothing that looks like dino problem. A dinoflagellate cell or two here or there under the scope (if that's what they are - video too blurry to say) is not an outbreak or a problem. Focus on the chrysophytes.
 

Monty Alexander

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Bought one reduced my tank to zero nitrates and phosphates. Did so good I had to buy me a second one. Great invention! Thanks Pax Bellum.
 

alex.mccann99

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Dinoflagellates are unlike any other type of algae. In fact are not technically even classified as a type of algae. I had an outbreak on an older tank back in the day. I had bought some coral attached to a large piece of live rock. That rock infested my entire tank with Dinoflagellates. After a lot of research and trying all kinds of various methods, Hydrogen Peroxide was what finally worked. I heavily dosed it. Pulled out entire pieces of live rock and scrubbed them in diluted Hydrogen Peroxide baths. I sucked up layers of substrate and threw it out. Amazingly, I didn't loose a single coral specimen or fish during all of this. Even my Bubble Tip Anemone made it through. Lights out and other typical methods you'd use for Algae outbreaks DO Not work against Dinoflagellates. Hydrogen Peroxide does work and if done right, you'll win the battle.
 

ncaldwell

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I wish I could say the same for H2O2. Vibrant has been my silver bullet after almost 2 years
 

reeferfoxx

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I just couldn't ever succumb to adding things to my tank that could potentially effect something even at a microscopic level. If h2O2 can oxidize dino(debatable) it can hurt pods, bacteria and other micro fauna.

Using nutrients to suppress dinos even for the long term, creates a form of dino immunity. Because, the more coral you add to the tank, the more likely you will be adding more and maybe different strains of dino to the tank.
 
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kecked

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Some pictures of my success. First where I started.
1443C916-B917-448F-BEAB-B63D7FF47F36.jpeg
AF8B45DC-82FD-4D97-A953-50D257DD7A14.jpeg
31679B8D-557F-4771-83DA-EDC5F7C85D22.jpeg
 

Viner87

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I just couldn't ever succumb to adding things to my tank that could potentially effect something even at a microscopic level. If h2O2 can oxidize dino(debatable) it can hurt pods, bacteria and other micro fauna.

Using nutrients to suppress dinos even for the long term, creates a form of dino immunity. Because, the more coral you add to the tank, the more likely you will be adding more and maybe different strains of dino to the tank.

So what are you suggesting then?
 

kecked

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Last I noticed a difference growth between two corals that started life together. Style or poro. Not remember. It’s the one that grows by budding and is a weed. Sorry for multiple posts. Figured better to separate. Thanks to all for helping me. Too 8 months and now Dino’s do not scare me. They can be handled and you will live. New pods and a clam going back in as some as my nitrates come back down. BB9921C8-FC2B-42C9-BC7C-19FE9FE4A6C9.jpeg BE00EA31-2873-47CE-B488-04EF7980A4D5.jpeg
 

reeferfoxx

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So what are you suggesting then?
I'm suggesting the first post to this thread provides enough information to form a plan of action against dinos. That action doesn't involve chemicals or magical bottles of fixes. It's taking the natural route of identifying your dino, understanding what triggered the bloom, and taking action against them.
 

Viner87

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I'm suggesting the first post to this thread provides enough information to form a plan of action against dinos. That action doesn't involve chemicals or magical bottles of fixes. It's taking the natural route of identifying your dino, understanding what triggered the bloom, and taking action against them.

UV and increased nutrients then?
 

reeferfoxx

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UV and increased nutrients then?
That's a start. However, if you have amphidinium, UV is ineffective.

Also, the reason Dino's are winning is because competitors and predators to dinos have reduced numbers substantially. That reduction is from a lack of po4, more times than none.
 
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reeferfoxx

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Dinos are so efficient at up taking nurients, that daily dosing off nutrients is a must.
Sorry this isn't worded correctly, at all.

Once you start dosing nutrients, you'll quickly find that they deplete quickly. Bacteria and other microbes will start up taking nutrients quickly and begin multiplying. With that you'll see Dino's growing making it seem like they are efficient at nutrient uptake. However, eventually they will get starved out till their appearance is completely gone.
 

Viner87

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That's a start. However, if you have amphidinium, UV is ineffective.

Dinos are so efficient at up taking nurients, that daily dosing off nutrients is a must.

Also, the reason Dino's are winning is because competitors and predators to dinos have reduced numbers substantially. That reduction is from a lack of po4, more times than none.

Yeah this what I’ve been doing and seems to be working. My Po4 is 0.1 and No3 25 - as a result, my SPS look better than I’ve ever seen them.

Dinos has been an eye opener for me - my tank is now so much better as a result of increasing my nutrients
 

reeferfoxx

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Yeah this what I’ve been doing and seems to be working. My Po4 is 0.1 and No3 25 - as a result, my SPS look better than I’ve ever seen them.

Dinos has been an eye opener for me - my tank is now so much better as a result of increasing my nutrients
Another R2R member, @tenurepro, including myself had success going this route and even made a video about it. Well I didn't make a video but tenurepro did.

 

dwest

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That's a start. However, if you have amphidinium, UV is ineffective.

Also, the reason Dino's are winning is because competitors and predators to dinos have reduced numbers substantially. That reduction is from a lack of po4, more times than none.
Although I believe that blowing the rocks daily allowed my tank’s uv to assist in the removal process of my amphidinium.
 

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