Any change with your tank after moving uv to DT?
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Any change with your tank after moving uv to DT?
I tested cultures of amphidinium with metronidazole at doses several times larger and longer duration than what anyone would recommend in a reef tank, the amphidinium were not reduced in population and remained moving and active.So, I've been reading that UV sterilizer is good for stopping Dino's reproductive cycle. On the other hand, it isn't very efficient on Amphidinium.
I've also read that metronidazole can affect Dino's reproductive cycle. If I'm not mistaken, what's the correct dosage on a 300l reef?
I kept doing water changes. Others stopped. I don’t believe there is a definitive recommendation here. Am interested in what others say.So do you recommend not doing water changes while attempting to get rid of Dino’s? My tank already has nutrients, nitrates 4 and phosphate .05. Adding UV tomorrow and removed GFO, added new carbon, stopped aminos.
Sounds like me you are on the right track. Have you id’d them? Lots of manual removal, may want to bump nitrates 10 and phosphates to o.1 ish.... be sure to plumb uv inside DT. Good luck.As am I, the Dino’s just started to show up and want to nip them in the but as fast as I can
I found that if you leave cyano to grow, it eventually begins to absorb nutrients back to undetectable. Best course of action is to siphon as much of the mats out as possible with a water change. It doesntd matter the amount of water changed but the amount of cyano removed. The more the better. Then keep running GAC to remove any excess organics.Dinos seem to be gone and the Cyanobacteria is taking over big time! What are you guys who beat dinos doing at this point?
I found that if you leave cyano to grow, it eventually begins to absorb nutrients back to undetectable. Best course of action is to siphon as much of the mats out as possible with a water change. It doesntd matter the amount of water changed but the amount of cyano removed. The more the better. Then keep running GAC to remove any excess organics.
In addition to what reeferfox said, I beefed up my cuc at that point.Dinos seem to be gone and the Cyanobacteria is taking over big time! What are you guys who beat dinos doing at this point?
Diatoms are a welcoming meal for pods and snails. If the CuC and water changes aren't working, the next diagnosis is dinos. Generally Dino's thrive in low po4 environments. When I say low Po4, I mean undetectable po4.Would you consider this diatoms or dinos? I dont have a microscope...
I have since done a waterchange and added rowaphos to remove silicate if thats what it is feeding from. Please advise me on how to properly handle this.
In addition to what reeferfox said, I beefed up my cuc at that point.
- no special equipment is needed to confirm whether your algae sample has dino's and/or other algae
Would you consider this diatoms or dinos? I dont have a microscope...
Interesting! Not related to dinos but in the last few months I had been cyano free up until I removed my leather coral. Not exactly sure why either but I did play around with a dose of vibrant due to some brown film accumulation on the glass. Did it help? No. Was a dumb decision? Maybe. Did it happen? Yes.On cyano, I'll mention that a few of us crazies started dosing silica in order to compete with sandbed dinos. (In my case, no dinos - just to test system response to silica)
We all expected big diatom blooms - but yet to see one in the handful of people who tried it.
Unexpected side effect is that for some of us, persistent cyano mats disappeared. Now this is only n=2 anecdotal evidence...
But my sand bed would always have small bits of cyano here and there over the past two years. But cyano receded and not a single spot in 3 months. Tank nutrient levels otherwise same as they always have been.
Just throwing that out here.