Dinoflagellates – Are You Tired Of Battling Altogether?
- Thread starter mcarroll
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36-48 hours ought to be enough to get most cells to seek new places. not trying to kill by blackout. Trying to use it to move them.
Definitely ostreopsis. Welcome to the club nobody wants to join. Sorry.hi all can i get some help with a id on which i have going on
The conventional, tried/true method for ostreopsis:hi all can i get some help with a id on which i have going on
a) Raise NO3 and PO4 to >10 and >.1 respectively. NYOS test, Hanna ULR test. You may be shocked at how much PO4 you need to dose.
b) Install a UV to/from the affected display (not sump). 1 watt per 3 gallons. 300-400 GPH is OK. Slower if you can.
c) No aminos at all. No GFO. Skim dry. No carbon dosing. No water changes.
d) Run activated carbon; ostreos are toxic
e) Manual removal: blow them off often. Clamp filter floss in high light / high flow areas. Think 4" X 12" strips. Rinse each night.
f) Optional but helpful is 36hr blackout
Once you get some competing green algae and cyano going, you will know you are getting close.
Post your experiences back here.
If you do ALL of this, you will see improvement in days.
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To clarify, There's nothing remotely dino-specific about Dino-X. It's a general purpose strong algacide. Some people have adverse side-effects.
I recommend searching the forum for reports with this product and losses before deciding to do it or not.
fuelman
2500 Club Member
Thanks @ScottB I have the nyos & Hanna also a uv in the sump I will move to the DT when I get home from work. What's a good product to dose po4 I looked around and I'm not seeing anything I have some bottle no3. But have used reefroids to keep my po4 up a few times a week & it looks like that's a no go for a while. Thanks for your help!!!
Folks often use NeoPhos from Brightwell. Fine for mid to small systems. If you have a large system, you can burn a bottle in a week or so as the rocks soak up what the dinos leave behind. I mix my own using trisodium phosphate but you have to careful ordering this as there are many "substitute" products you don't want anything to do with. This works for me:
BeejReef
2500 Club Member
Ok, quick question regarding UV
I had (or have) a moderate dino issue. It's the snot-bubble ones that dissipate at lights out.
After battling with dosing P, changing socks, blackouts, bubble-scrubbing, H2O2, and MB7, I finally caved and bought a UV.
I could get them 96% gone with the other methods, but never 100% gone.
UV has seemingly won the battle virtually overnight. It's an ugly, temporary install T'd off my overflow atm. I'd like to remove it and go back to not running UV after having let it run for a week or so.
Has anyone had success doing this, or are they near-certain to return?
Ideally, I'd like to keep the UV in the closet as the "big gun" I deploy in times of crisis and have a stable tank without it. If that's a fantasy though, I'm willing to install permanently and forego whatever biological or chemistry swing offlining and onlining it might entail.
ty
I had (or have) a moderate dino issue. It's the snot-bubble ones that dissipate at lights out.
After battling with dosing P, changing socks, blackouts, bubble-scrubbing, H2O2, and MB7, I finally caved and bought a UV.
I could get them 96% gone with the other methods, but never 100% gone.
UV has seemingly won the battle virtually overnight. It's an ugly, temporary install T'd off my overflow atm. I'd like to remove it and go back to not running UV after having let it run for a week or so.
Has anyone had success doing this, or are they near-certain to return?
Ideally, I'd like to keep the UV in the closet as the "big gun" I deploy in times of crisis and have a stable tank without it. If that's a fantasy though, I'm willing to install permanently and forego whatever biological or chemistry swing offlining and onlining it might entail.
ty
Sounds like you had ostreopsis. IME, they are the quickest to get zapped by the UV.
You will be able to put the UV away, but not sure I would remove it so quickly. At a minimum, be sure you have a feeding or dosing regimen that maintains >10 and >.08 for NO3 and PO4 CONSISTENTLY.
The dinos are still around, just waiting for the chance to outcompete. I was "clear" for a couple months, but could always take a scrape off the glass and find dinos under the scope.
Yea, running relatively rich nutrient levels may bring about a period of "uglies". That is just part of the deal when nutrients swing way down/up. Only now, after about 5 months post dinos is my frag system really back to full strength coralline and no algae. Running 15 and .14 by dumping buckets of chum for the fish three times a day.
You will be able to put the UV away, but not sure I would remove it so quickly. At a minimum, be sure you have a feeding or dosing regimen that maintains >10 and >.08 for NO3 and PO4 CONSISTENTLY.
The dinos are still around, just waiting for the chance to outcompete. I was "clear" for a couple months, but could always take a scrape off the glass and find dinos under the scope.
Yea, running relatively rich nutrient levels may bring about a period of "uglies". That is just part of the deal when nutrients swing way down/up. Only now, after about 5 months post dinos is my frag system really back to full strength coralline and no algae. Running 15 and .14 by dumping buckets of chum for the fish three times a day.
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