Dinoflagellates – Are You Tired Of Battling Altogether?

[taricha]

Anyone else notice an explosion of coralline algae while fighting dinos?

Sometimes after people start elevating nutrients, yes. But it's more common observation that alk consumption and calcifying organism growth slows during dino outbreak. Not really the reverse.

 

[drawman]

Sometimes after people start elevating nutrients, yes. But it's more common observation that alk consumption and calcifying organism growth slows during dino outbreak. Not really the reverse.

I can attest to that. I'm 12 months in on this tank and only a few very small spots of coralline to speak of.

 

[DesertReefT4r]

Well my reef has been dino free for a few months now and I can grow sps in it again without them all dying. It was a hard battle but in the end it can be won. I am back to doing regular water changes, dosing and started feeding Reef Roids lightly again. Also going to remove the in tank UV very soon I think.
After and before pics.

 

[Shane B.]

Assuming dinos here? Been fighting them for a few weeks, even though tank shows above 0 PO4 and NO3. Brown, slimy, sticking to my corals. Getting irritated...

 

[taricha]

Assuming dinos here? Been fighting them for a few weeks, even though tank shows above 0 PO4 and NO3. Brown, slimy, sticking to my corals. Getting irritated...

Yes, dinos. Probably prorocentrum type.

 

[dubmaneh]

Hi Everyone,

First, thank you or the great thread. My brain is very full after much, much reading! I would really appreciate some advice on my scenario and plan of attack

I don't have a microscope, but based on my tank history over the past few months I am reasonably certain I have Dino's.

• P04 hit 0 on Hanna ULR twice. - Lost a lot of corals and the problem has been rectified but this set off a nasty chain of events in which I lost a lot of my sis colonies
• N03 hit 0 on Salifert
• Disappearance of my hermit crab, astern starfish and snail population.
• No algae in the tank. - Used to scrape the glass 2-3x week.
• Dino's on sand and surfaces disappear at night only to reappear with lights on.

I have been slowly increasing by feedings to raise nutrients, and P04 increased by 0.0175 over the past 5 days.

Current readings are:
P04 - 0.275ppm
N03 - 2.5ppm

N03 has stayed the same at 2.5ppm despite the increased feedings. Low N03 has always been an issue for this system. Possibly due to too much Siporax media in the sump? Currently feeding NLS 1mm pellets 8x a day on an auto feeder + Nori (1/8sheet) + Spirulina Bryne (1/2 cube).


My plan of attack:

• Increase P04 and N03 - Is there an ideal range for these? I can increase my pellet feedings (volume of food rather than frequency) or would you suggest dosing directly?

• Install UV filter - Based on the Dino's disappearance at lights out I think it safe to assume they are int he water column. Would a UV filter negate dosing beneficial bacteria?

• Dose beneficial bacteria - I have MB7, Vibrant and Aquaforest products on hand. My only concern is that every time I dose bacteria N03 drops rapidly with P04 following suit. Do I just feed even more to compensate?

• Add Pods and feed photo - It does seem as if they have all but disappeared from my system. Should I do this now or wait until the outbreak slows?

Also, I have recently (past month) started using the Aquaforest system of coral supplements and coral foods (not using the bacteria or bacteria carbon sources due to N03 drops). Not sure if the timing is coincidental but should I cut back on these? I'm reluctant to eliminate them as coral health has definitely improved since starting these and cutting back on Acropower.

I think my plan is reasonable but would appreciate some clarity and advice from those who have more experience.

Much appreciated.

 

[Shane B.]

Yes, dinos. Probably prorocentrum type.

So follow standard protocol (run UV, run GAC, dose NO3 and PO4, limit fuge light, manually remove as much as possible) or does this type require special treatment?

 

[taricha]

So follow standard protocol (run UV, run GAC, dose NO3 and PO4, limit fuge light, manually remove as much as possible) or does this type require special treatment?

yes, understand they are typically more stubborn and resist going into water and getting hit with UV. a short (couple of days) blackout can help increase motivation to move around.
Why cut fuge lighting? if they moved to the fuge in large numbers that would be easier to export.

 

[Shane B.]

yes, understand they are typically more stubborn and resist going into water and getting hit with UV. a short (couple of days) blackout can help increase motivation to move around.
Why cut fuge lighting? if they moved to the fuge in large numbers that would be easier to export.

Thank you! Started the process Wednesday'ish of last week? Will keep notes and update accordingly so others can add insight or try my steps on their own.
No idea why fuge lights need decreased, assuming to help "dirty up" the water. I've just seen it mentioned a few times.

 

[taricha]

No idea why fuge lights need decreased, assuming to help "dirty up" the water. I've just seen it mentioned a few times.

opinions vary, but I wouldn't. I'd grow as much in the fuge as possible. export a ton, keep PO4 and NO3 at modest but consistent levels, force dinos to compete for other stuff than N & P.

 

[skyhawkn5262y]

@taricha, I believe I have Ostreopsis. Can you please confirm? Let me know if you need better pictures/video.

This sucks. I've been reefing for 25 years and have never dealt with dinoflagellates. My current tank has only been running for 2 months and I'm already dealing with this crap. Sigh.

I've read through almost this entire thread. Great info.

As an interesting side note, I really do believe that the dry rock starts and dino connection is real. This is the first tank I've ever started with dry rock (90% dry, 10% live), and also the first time I've had dinos. The dinos are on every rock EXCEPT for the pieces of live rock. This lends credence to the theory that dry rock systems don't have the biodiversity needed to outcompete dinos.

 

[Lithoman]

Nuke em with UV... It worked for me..

Another Dino or Cyan ID Please

Help... what am I fighting? Dino X coming in a few day ..got Chemiclean if needed.

www.reef2reef.com

 

[skyhawkn5262y]

Nuke em with UV... It worked for me..

Another Dino or Cyan ID Please

Help... what am I fighting? Dino X coming in a few day ..got Chemiclean if needed.

www.reef2reef.com

Oh, I absolutely am going to. I am currently using a 9W Green Killing Machine. I know it's totally inadequate for dino eradication, but I'm just using it until my 40W Pentair Aquatics arrives. I bought the tiny UV sterilizer from Petco for like $50 when I had a phyto bloom a few months back. I will say that for how tiny and cheap that thing is it completely cleared my 90G of phyto within 48 hours.

 

[Lithoman]

Looks like you have the same dino strain as me... read my thread.. it will knock em out..
Good luck!

 

[DTz]

Anyone know what type this is?

 

[taricha]

I believe I have Ostreopsis. Can you please confirm? Let me know if you need better pictures/video.

...I really do believe that the dry rock starts and dino connection is real. This is the first tank I've ever started with dry rock (90% dry, 10% live), and also the first time I've had dinos. The dinos are on every rock EXCEPT for the pieces of live rock. This lends credence to the theory that dry rock systems don't have the biodiversity needed to outcompete dinos.

Yes, ostreopsis is correct. What's the source of your good live rock?

I am currently using a 9W Green Killing Machine. I know it's totally inadequate for dino eradication, but I'm just using it until my 40W Pentair Aquatics arrives. I bought the tiny UV sterilizer from Petco for like $50 when I had a phyto bloom a few months back. I will say that for how tiny and cheap that thing is it completely cleared my 90G of phyto within 48 hours.

I've used Green machine on a test tank with success, but I don't know how well it'll work in full large displays.
In the mean time you can do this...

Filter floss & zip tie, hung on a pump, turns brown, wrung out into a beaker is almost pure ostreopsis.

Anyone know what type this is?

Based on the cells and their relationship to that GHA, I'd bet prorocentrum. But not enough detail in the pics to say that for sure.

 

[Gildo]

ID? They are they are much smaller and faster than Dino!

 

[skyhawkn5262y]

Yes, ostreopsis is correct. What's the source of your good live rock?

I got the live rock from a LFS.

I've used Green machine on a test tank with success, but I don't know how well it'll work in full large displays.
In the mean time you can do this...

Good to know the Green Machine is at least somewhat effective. I currently have it running on my 90G and it actually seems to be helping. I will order a larger UV sterilizer if needed.

I haven't used that exact collection method yet, but I have noticed that my filter sock in my sump is filled with red/brown mucus every single morning. I attribute that to the nightly ritual of blowing off my rocks with a turkey baster.

 

[DTz]

Yes, ostreopsis is correct. What's the source of your good live rock?


I've used Green machine on a test tank with success, but I don't know how well it'll work in full large displays.
In the mean time you can do this...



Based on the cells and their relationship to that GHA, I'd bet prorocentrum. But not enough detail in the pics to say that for sure.

Hi, do u have a method to remove Prorocentrum? Been battling it for months. Currently upped my po4 and no3 + running uv from display. Things look abit better, but it's still there

 

[Michael Gray]

Dosing po4 and dosing alot to keep it at or close to .1.

Look at all the hair.