Discussion in 'Do It Yourself (DIY)' started by AngryOwl, Oct 30, 2017.
Also I need to cut that slot wider for sure, you can see its starting to jet a little bit.
Yea that's the method I used. Every build thread really emphasized the importance of getting the screen rough so I paid more attention to getting it as rough as possible.
Hmm, never heard of the black screen.
It looks like we might be starting to get green growth, picture doesn't show the color well but in person it's green.
I've always recommended against anything but the clear canvas (not even the white). The main reason is that the clear allows a small amount of light through it, and this might not seem like it matters, but on a screen lit from both sides, you do get some light through to the other side that can help keep the attachment points attached for a longer period of time. This allows you to let the screen grow longer, which is also better in general.
I know others have said the colored screens have a dye or pigment that is likely pretty low in amount but that coloration is not something that you would want to leech into your tank (the pigment/dye is not necessarily reef safe)
How do i calculate screen size
12 square inches, lit on both sides, for every cube of food (or equivalent) you feed per day. Generally you would match the L x W to whatever light you are using, as best as you can.
Odd side question, has anyone attempted to heat up the screen prior to scoring it? I'm not talking to melting point, but maybe 150-160 degrees, could really aid in getting it pliable to accept the scrubber/saw/knife/whatever, while not immediately healing the wound as if it were at melting point.
I've tried many forms of heating in an attempt to find a way to adhere a layer of sand or grit in order to avoid having to rough up. I'll sum it up: don't bother. Others have tried to do similar things with aragonite, etc...the results are not very useful (i.e. turns to goo, completely deforms...)
6 days since I installed the red Leds. This pic shows the growth a little better. Light schedule is 90% intensity and running for 12 or 13 hours. I didn't commit to running for 22 or 24 hours. So the only thing that changed was the 2 blue leds to red... will update more as the screen fills in.
So I'm getting growth finally. Only thing that changed was adding those extra reds and removing the blues. Just need to widen my slot since I'm getting some jets forming. No big deal.
It's amazing how fast those streamers can form. Take some black ABS from a hobby store and bend it a few times to form a light blocker that you can slip over the pipe. If you take a piece as long as your pipe/screen and about 4" wide or so, bend it at about 90 degrees (maybe a wider angle like 120) right down the middle lengthwise, then make 2 other inward bends at about the 1/2 way point so that the tips hang down lower than the slot/screen junction, that will block light and spray at the same time
hmm, I get what you're saying but having a hard time picturing what you're describing. Every time I go to the hobby store looking for stuff like this its never around. In in Houston so you'd think I'd have everything lol.
Basically a DIY version of this
I've seen this material somewhere before. Like door or window flashing right?
This is extruded ABS, specific product. But it shows you the general idea of what I'm referring to. If you get a sheet of ABS, you can bend it into a similar shape.
I couldn't quite find what you showed but I think I have a way to do it. Either way I wanted to put a cap on this whole thing for anyone reading this in the future and had one more question for Turbo.
Question: Can I make this work "less efficiently" by changing the light schedule or intensity? I'm unsure the balance between the two still. Basically its working "too good" now and I'd like to be able to maintain some nitrate and phosphates in the tank.
Conclusion for anyone reading:
It was suggested I change out my blue LED lights for more reds, making 6 red LEDs on each side. A few days after I switched the LEDs I started getting green growth where before I couldn't get anything but diatoms (see posted pictures in thread). Light schedule is 90% intensity and lights are on 13 hours a day opposite schedule to my tank lighting. No other changes were made to the tank during this stretch of time so the results are pretty conclusive here on what made it work. Although if you're reading through this thread make sure you follow the other suggestions to ensure those other aspects are appropriately accounted for.
The hardest part about things like this and pretty much anything in your tank is that it is going to be different every time and a whole bunch of trial and error is involved; which is extremely frustrating to read lol. My recommendation as with anything is don't change everything all at once. Change one thing and then wait... waiting can't just be 1 or 2 days, it has to be 1, 2, or even 3 weeks.
Anyways I've rambled on long enough. Thanks to everyone who offered insight and helped this thing grow. Now my money building it isn't for nothing
That is great you figured it out. One thing I learned from your experience is this. Most if which you were going thru is the new tank phase, but your ATS provided a place for the uglies to grow. Hmm? I have considering using one on my rebuild and have been reading alot about them. Perhaps I will START OUT EARLY with one this time around. Thank you for so much detail guys.
The fastest and easiest way to roughen the screen is rubbing it against a rough concrete or tarmac. Laid it flat, stand on it and do a twisting motion with your leg
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