DIY Radeon clone?

[theatrus]

Based on reefpi?

Created a thread on the idea. Thoughts welcome: https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/all-in-one-led-controller-dimmer-driver-project.558930/

 

[Kampo]

I am thinking 4 of these but where is it that people are going to get these with custom layout?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/5-Channel-...188608?hash=item56afb6ed80:g:V1MAAOSwenlbB9FZ

That's what I have. And color is pretty good. Better I think full out than a Radeon full out. But too much 480nm blue. With blue turned fodo and suppliment royal blue it's perfect.

custom I'd do would be swap the deep red on the white channel for another royal blue. Swap the 8k whites to 4k. And on the blue channel swap 2 to royal blue.


That said if I were to do it again I wouldn't go with the puck.

I'd do clusters. Something like

Luxeon k16 royal blue at 600mah
2xsunplus whites
1xblue
2xhyperviolet

Or if Stevesled does the 3ups with luxeon c:

Luxeon k16 @700
3up with sunplus white, mint, hyper violet
3up with sunplus white, blue, hyper violet
That's roughly the power of the puck I bought. If 3ups cost 12 each it's the same price as well with far better leds. If Steve doesn't do the luxeon c threeup maybe @theatrus has some of the 6 led left strips left to do the supplimental instead as a custom layout. He didn't have any sunplus whites but had a high cri white.

A high power idea with those strips would be ( forgot the layout so might be wrong on if possible)

Strip 1
Mint white mint
3xViolet
2xk16 @700
Strip 2
Violet blue violet
Mint white mint

100 watts from a single 3in square array full out.

That got a bit long winded ..

 

[b4tn]

@Kampo thanks for the detailed thoughts. Here is my condrum. You and several others @dantimdad, have come up with some great ideas on spectrum, chips, and different color choices. And they all seem like what I would want. But Since being in the hobby I have only seen my black box’s and kessil’s at the LFS in person. At a new LFS this past weekend I saw a tank with a pair of XR30 Pro’s over a tank and was absolutely blown away! The color and growth was out of this world and I love the ability to change each color with 8 available channels. If I had a couple grand To blow I would have bought a pair right there.

With the ability to make my own controller, a pair of rapid LED enclosure and these pucks

https://www.google.com/amp/s/m.aliexpress.com/item/32917851411.html

I can have a DIY clone of the XR30 pro for a fraction of the cost and the spectrum is not only beautiful but is proven. The only thing I would need to work out is the lenses but looks like those can be had for cheap. Is my thinking way off here?

 

[Kampo]

If your not convinced on the spectrum choices we are trending toard on diy. Go read testimonials. On nanobox lights. He is one of the first guys to push the no whites spectrum idea commercialy. His lights are very well rated.

 

[b4tn]

I forgot about that. I actually had a nanobox mini a couple years ago. I don’t recall what LED’s it had in the array but it was a solid little light.

 

[Jânio Silva]

What do I need to build 2 pairs (4 PCBs)? how many and which drivers and what controller can I use to be fully functional for a 24" high, SPS-only tank?
I would like someone to send a step by step of the construction

I'll use this PCB (4x):
5 Channel Cree Epileds Red Royal Blue White Cyan UV LED Reef Tank Aquarium Light

Which power supply should I use? how many watts and how many amps should it have?

Sorry for bad English.

 

[oreo54]

What do I need to build 2 pairs (4 PCBs)? how many and which drivers and what controller can I use to be fully functional for a 24" high, SPS-only tank?
I would like someone to send a step by step of the construction

I'll use this PCB (4x):
5 Channel Cree Epileds Red Royal Blue White Cyan UV LED Reef Tank Aquarium Light

Which power supply should I use? how many watts and how many amps should it have?

Sorry for bad English.

your link is broken.. Assume you were referring to these:

http://www.topledlight.com/5-Channe...an-UV-LED-Reef-Tank-Aquarium-Light_p2500.html

Channel 1: Epileds UV 395nm x4pcs
Forward Voltage & Current: DC 14-15V 350-600mA
Channel 2: XTE royal blue x4pcs
Forward Voltage & Current: DC 12V 350-1500mA
Channel 3: XPE blue x4pcs
Forward Voltage & Current: DC 12V 350-1000mA
Channel 4: Epileds UV 420nm x4pcs
Forward Voltage & Current: DC 12V 350-1500mA
Channel 5: XPG2 8000K x2pcs + Epileds 660nm x1pcs+ Epileds 495nm x1pcs+XTE royal blue x1pcs
Forward Voltage & Current: DC 14V 350-600mA

Rest depends if you trust their numbers and if you want to drive them hard or not
highest V(f) is 15V.. 2 channels in series will be 30V so
36V ps (30 +3V (meanwell overhead) = 33V
You can calculate driver current or just "ballpark" by adding up drivers.
10 drivers 1 per 2 series channels..

suggest 500mA and 1000mA.
Ch1 500mA
Ch2 1000mA
ch3 1000mA
ch4 1000mA
ch5 500mA

4A x 2 = 8A..... 36v x 8 =288W
Long way..
ch1 14.5V x .5A = 7.25 x 4 = 29W

repeat for each channel..
29W
48W
48W
48W
28W

201W

Channel 4: Epileds UV 420nm x4pcs
Forward Voltage & Current: DC 12V 350-1500mA

Calculated to use a 1A driver here.. might want to cut it down to a 700mA..

 

[Lingwendil]

Those epiLEDs violets don't last all that long if driven hard, I would be inclined to do 500-600mA on them...

 

[oreo54]

Those epiLEDs violets don't last all that long if driven hard, I would be inclined to do 500-600mA on them...

Good call..

 

[Jânio Silva]

Ok ... so far I understood, my question now is how to use a single controller to manage the two modules
(each module will have two arrays each as the original radeon XR30, to decrease the cost of one controller per module)?
And which controller do you indicate?

 

[Jânio Silva]

Do you indicate any other PCB BOARD that comes closest to the radeon to use in an SPS-only tank?

 

[oreo54]

Ok ... so far I understood, my question now is how to use a single controller to manage the two modules
(each module will have two arrays each as the original radeon XR30, to decrease the cost of one controller per module)?
And which controller do you indicate?

One controller is fine AFAICT. Each "array" channel (2 wires in parallel..) will go to one PWM dim port.

Biggest problem in any Radion emulation using this type chip is they co-mingle RGB's on one channel.. Unlike the Radions.

Next issue is most controllers don't have "point" programming like the Radions.
Simpilist is a modded TC-420 to do 5V pwm..
Mildly frustrating Chinese software but in one area more advanced than most.. ;)

 

[oreo54]

Do you indicate any other PCB BOARD that comes closest to the radeon to use in an SPS-only tank?

If you mean the diode array, I don't. Radion is not hindered by "just" 5 channels..

 

[Jânio Silva]

your link is broken.. Assume you were referring to these:

http://www.topledlight.com/5-Channe...an-UV-LED-Reef-Tank-Aquarium-Light_p2500.html



Rest depends if you trust their numbers and if you want to drive them hard or not
highest V(f) is 15V.. 2 channels in series will be 30V so
36V ps (30 +3V (meanwell overhead) = 33V
You can calculate driver current or just "ballpark" by adding up drivers.
10 drivers 1 per 2 series channels..

suggest 500mA and 1000mA.
Ch1 500mA
Ch2 1000mA
ch3 1000mA
ch4 1000mA
ch5 500mA

4A x 2 = 8A..... 36v x 8 =288W
Long way..
ch1 14.5V x .5A = 7.25 x 4 = 29W

repeat for each channel..
29W
48W
48W
48W
28W

201W

Calculated to use a 1A driver here.. might want to cut it down to a 700mA..

My controller is a typhoon and has only 4 channels and supports drivers up to LDD 1000, can I connect channel 1 and channel 5 and use an LDD500 on channel 1?
Ch1 500mA (Ch1 + Ch5)
Ch2 1000mA
ch3 1000mA
ch4 1000mA

could you draw a picture of how this connection would be using just 4 drivers? Sorry, I do not have much knowledge of mounting hardware, I'm venturing now.

 

[oreo54]

This is cloned 2 boards together. Obviouslyu a single 5 LDD board only has one power supply connection.
storm not typhon..ect..

you can put as many LDD's on one channels as you wish to..Size of the LDD has nothing to do w/ it.

 

[Jânio Silva]

It will work ?
Or do I have to change anything?


Technical Parameters :
channel 1: SemiLED UV 395nm x2pcs + 420nm x2pcs ; 14-15V 350-1000mA
channel 2: Cree XPG2 cool white 6500K x 4pcs ; 12V 350mA-1500mA
channel 3: Cree XPE2 blue 470-480nm x4pcs; 12V 350-1000MA
channel 4:Cree XTE royal blue 450nm x 4pcs 12V 350-1500MA
channel 5: Cree XPE2 Green 525-530NM x2pcs + Cree XPE HE photo red 660nmx 2pcs+ Cree XPE2 amberx 595nm 1pcs 12V 350-1000MA

channel 1: LDD-1000mA
channel 2: LDD-1000mA
channel 3: LDD-1000mA
channel 4:LDD-1000mA
channel 5: LDD-1000mA

 

[Lingwendil]

Run channel 1 at 600-700mA if you want those LED to last.

 

[oreo54]

Yes it will work as drawn..now the "suggestions"
First: Agree w/ the above about the semi channel.
That current will accelerate the "browning" of the diode lens (on chip)
Second: I never recommend running anything at their stated max current. Call it insurance if you like.
The cooler the diode the more efficient it is... soo ...cutting current, though reducing gross output increases efficiency..
In other words its not watt per watt output efficiency.
i.e running 1/2 the current isn't 1/2 the output..like 5/8th. I know not a TON but longetivity and lumen depreciation will be better.
Point is you lose some output but not as much as you think.

 

[Jânio Silva]

And the power supply how many volts and how many amps would it be good to work off to not get too hot?

channel 1: LDD-700mA (this one I have in stock) (15v)
channel 2: LDD-1000mA (12v)
channel 3: LDD-1000mA (12v)
channel 4:LDD-1000mA (12v)
channel 5: LDD-1000mA (12v)
Total 4.7 amp.

I'm asking a lot of questions to be able to buy all items without error. please do not be angry with me

PCB:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/5-Channel-21Leds-Cree-Semileds-Led-Coral-Emitter-Lamp-Light-For-DIY-Ecotch-Marine-XR30W-XR15W/32853302079.html

 

[Jânio Silva]

Yes it will work as drawn..now the "suggestions"
First: Agree w/ the above about the semi channel.
That current will accelerate the "browning" of the diode lens (on chip)
Second: I never recommend running anything at their stated max current. Call it insurance if you like.
The cooler the diode the more efficient it is... soo ...cutting current, though reducing gross output increases efficiency..
In other words its not watt per watt output efficiency.
i.e running 1/2 the current isn't 1/2 the output..like 5/8th. I know not a TON but longetivity and lumen depreciation will be better.
Point is you lose some output but not as much as you think.

What would you change to be more efficient? how would you do with the drivers?