Help! I can't keep LPS alive (or "easy" SPS either)

abossi2

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Help! I am not able to keep any LPS alive in my tank for more than a few months. The typical is they look good for about 1 to 2 months and then they start shrinking and tissue receding until the flesh is gone. I have tried lots of different LPS and a few "easy" SPS with no success. Softies survive - but really don't grow very much. Here is the info on my tank and what has been successful and what hasn't. I am looking for any suggestions/insights!

Tank: 90 gallon (24" high, 18" deep, 48" wide) + 15 gallons or so in sump, system is 2.5 years old
Flow: 2 Tunze 6055 running full (1450 gph each)
Lights: 2 AI Hydra 26HD, using BRS settings that approximate Radion AB (UV 119, Violet 116, Royal Blue79, Blue 80, Green 4, Deep Red 4, Cool White 22), runs at these settings for 6 hours with a 3 hour ramp up and 3 hour ramp down. Tank covered with glass top. Lights 10" above water line.
Par Measurements: (using Seneye) Sand bed measures 20-50 par, mid level measures 50-80 par, top level 75-180 par
Filtration: Filter sock, skimmer, refugium with chaeto, carbon/gfo reactor - but I stopped running reactor a month ago
Water: RODI with BRS 4 stage (measures 0 TDS), ATO using Kalkwasser mixed in with RODI water
Salt: Brightwell Neomarine Reef Salt

Parameters
Salinity: 1.025
Ammonia & Nitrite: 0
Nitrate: 0 - 0.5 (NYOS test, usually either on 0 or slightly tinted but less than 1ppm so I am estimating 0.5)
Phosphate: .03 (Hanna)
Calcium: 420 ppm (Red Sea)
Magnesium: 1320 ppm (Red Sea)
Alk: 8.6 - 9.7 but typically in upper 8.X (Hanna)
Ph: 8.2 - 8.3 (Red Sea)
Temp: 77.7 - 78

Maintenance
  • Water change every 2-3 weeks (15-20 gallons)
  • Filter sock changed every 2 weeks
  • Skimmer - has been set to skim very little (to hopefully help boost Nitrates) - cup only fills after 3-4 weeks
  • Chaeto - lit 12 hours over night, harvest 50-60% every 4 weeks
  • Feed fish 1 cube frozen + 1/4 cube PE Calanus daily and occasional pellets in evening (2-3 nights per week)
  • Have tried target feeding reef roids, reef chili, and other coral food - 2 times/wk
All softies seem to survive (GSP and hairy mushrooms have shown the most growth). Other mushrooms slow growing, 2 bubble tip anemones have split once each (over 9-12 month period), rock flower anemones have grown slowly, derasa clam has increased 30-40% over 1.5yrs.

Corals that haven't survived (different ones tried over the past 2.5 yrs) various Euphyllia (hammer, octo, frogspawn, torch), Elegance, Blastos, Candy Cane, Bubble, Chalices, Acans, Scoly, Scroll, Goniopora, Birds Nest, Montipora. The typical pattern is the LPS seem to "waste away" over a period of 1-4 months. SPS corals seem to turn brown and then die (over 3-4 weeks)

All fish are classified "reef safe" and I have never seen any showing any interest in corals. All new corals inspected closely for critters, dipped in Bayer, dipped in Seachem Reef Dip before put in tank.

Attached is a pic of my tank, a pic of a euphyllia I have had for 5 months now (has shrunk some over that period), pic of a hammer coral that looked good for a couple months and then started shrinking to nothing over a month period until all that is left is the skeleton.

I may be doing something stupid/wrong - so my feelings won't get hurt if you point out something. Just tired of wasting money on corals that fail and also feel bad for the animals. My best theory from what I have read is i need to have some Nitrates ("water too clean"). So far, haven't been able to raise Nitrates by turning down skimmer and reducing Chaeto hours (planning to reduce hours further).

Going to submit an ICP test to make sure nothing is crazy out of whack from an element perspective.

IMG_1345.jpg IMG_1347.jpg IMG_1348.jpg
 
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A

abossi2

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Yes, I use a refractometer to test salinity and I have calibrated it with 35ppt calibration solution (once a year). In addition, I tested some water from my LFS a few weeks ago and it was 1.026 like they said it would be. Therefore, I feel good that my salinity readings are accurate.
 

Terry Mattson

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I have a lot of lps, zoas, mushrooms, and a Birdsnest. Maxima clam. My tank setup is similar to yours and target feed once a week the corals. My socks get plugged every 4 days / 5 days. Skimmer is slightly above dry. Dump cup every 3 to 5 days. I have 9 fish and feed each morning flake, pellot and frozen. Have a couple of shrimp and 2 tuxedo Urchins. My lps is doing ok. Clam ok, zoas good after dosing a little iodine each week. Just for comparison.
 

html

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Okay. If everything went good before than what was change since?
 

html

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Not sure about salt level test but i would go a bit over just to make sure it is enough also It can be some minor elements hunger in your system
 

Shirak

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+1 on this
What you describe after looking at your parameters may be due to low par levels. Get your par levels up. I would shoot for your top levels on the sand bed.

Looks like the little hammer is down towards the bottom which is around 50 par based on your info. That is WAY low! I think this is your main issue. As you also noticed your nitrate is quite low also as evidenced by your test kit and the fact your socks only need cleaning every 2 weeks and your skimmer cup emptying once a month.. holy smokes I empty mine every few days. You could run ultra low nutrients if you can manage to target feed the corals but many you list don't readily take to target feeding or they need to be feed in the middle of the night..

I have AI Hydra 26hd also. I run more blue so not familiar with the spectrum setting your using but what are you running for output % on them? The glass over the top could be reflecting/reducing the light into the tank. Generally don't want anything between your lights and the water surface although personally I have diffuser plates on mine but I also run 3 fixtures on a 65g tank

What did you use to measure the par values? Some meters have issues with accurate par readings on led lights
 
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Sam_tech

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Nitrates... try to polute your water; let ur socks overflow (if possible), give more food to your fishes and feed your coral. The goal is to reach 2-5 nitrate. 10 is good too for lps.

And i’m thinking about your glass top. Does it affect gaz exchanges?
 

nick0206

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I already wrote about this in one of the discussions.
I had the same problem. With ideal water parameters, everything died in 1-1.5 months.
At a local forum, they told me that the problem could be due to the presence of electricity in the water, that they had already encountered such a problem.
I replaced almost all the pumps, including the skimmer, but this did not help and I began to look for the problem in a different direction.
As a result, after 3 years, the owner of the local LFS gave me a ground electrode for my tank from his tank in the store.
This immediately solved my problem, but in his corals, RTN started, until he put a new electrode.
The only thing that I did not change was 2 T5 lamp fixtures. I was also told that the electricity in the water is directly related to the lighting.
I am not a big specialist in electricity and I can not theoretically explain it, but it was after installing the ground that everything worked out for me, for 14 months already.
Exactly the same problem as mine.
Give it a try.

 
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S2G

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At a glance it looks like your par is low. No3 .5 and .03 is very low nutrients imo. Odd it seems like your nems & clam would be rocky
 

nick0206

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At a glance it looks like your par is low. No3 .5 and .03 is very low nutrients imo. Odd it seems like your nems & clam would be rocky
This can not be the reason for the death of corals after a month. I constantly keep the level of nitrates and phosphates at 0 - 0.
 

Hermie

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IMO your system is way too "Clean" to support all those corals, what I assume is happening is that the GSP and other established corals are soaking up all the nutrients in the water and leaving nothing for the new arrivals to your tank.
 

ccombs

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Turn the skimmer off for a little bit and see what happens. It doesn’t sound like it’s pulling too much out, but might raise nutrients enough.
 

King Turkey

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bump alk to 10. bump nitrate to 10. lower phosphate to .02 or near undetectable. ca could be 450 but 420 seems fine rest seams fine. I would personally have light up ten percent. I think the main issue at hand... is water flow I have a 47g and I am pushing 2.3k gph I have softies lps hardest to keep sps and I have come to believe water flow is key. I would invest in a controller to have the pumps alternate if they are just both on 24/7. when I did tunze just on I did not get much growth but when I added a contoled power head into the mix things started to take off and do better and grow and lowered up. do you run carbon at all? how close to other corals are you placing them? chem warfare maybe?? just my two cents.
 

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