How do I add a UV into my return to create true closed loop?

[bumpyj38]

I have a UV sterilizer that I need to add to my system. I’m not really sure how to go about doing this but here is what I have so far. Some feedback based on your experiences would be appreciated:

1. I want it to be a closed loop system. So, I’m trying to figure out how to add it in without just having it dump back into the sump.
2. I’m thinking about just adding another return pump in my sump routed to the UV sterilizer and then joining back in to the return on a T fitting (so both my return pump and UV sterilizer pump would be coming together at a T and back up through the return to the tank).
A. Will this work as a true closer loop system?
B. Do I have to worry about my return pump pressure being greater than my UV pump pressure and pushing water backward through the UV?
C. What else am I not thinking of?

Thanks.

 

[mrlavalamp]

If you plumb the UV sterilizer inline with your return pump then it must be sized large enough that the total flow you put through it does not go over the UV manufacturers max flow recommendation.

If you use a second pump (likely much smaller than your main return) and T into your main return line, then yes it would push water backward through the UV, or at least it would reduce the flow significantly, balancing the two would be difficult.

Is there a reason why are trying to create a pseudo closed loop into your return line?
If you are considering adding a second pump just for the UV, then why wouldn't you want it to feed back into your sump?

If your return pump is large enough to handle the extra flow required, why not T off the return with a valve to modulate flow through the UV and have it dump into the sump?

 

[Geoslang]

I just setup a Pentair 40W UV sterilizer on my RS S500. I installed it vertically behind the tank (had just enough room) and am using a dedicated pump (Sicce 3.0) with the pickup right next to my return pump in the return section of the sump, and the output back into the filter socks compartment. I plumpbed the UV unit with PVC and ball valves on the input and output to allow me to fine tune the flow, and when doing maintenance I can close both valves to seal in the water before removing the flex tubing from the barbs.

The flow rate is around 175-200 GPH through the UV. My return turnover rate through the sump is around 1200-1500 GPH, so I figure their is plenty of "new" water making it through the UV, and only a very small/negligle amount is being re-sterilized. I would have gone sump-to-tank, but there just wasn't a clean looking way of doing that without making ugly mods.

 

[bumpyj38]

If you plumb the UV sterilizer inline with your return pump then it must be sized large enough that the total flow you put through it does not go over the UV manufacturers max flow recommendation.

If you use a second pump (likely much smaller than your main return) and T into your main return line, then yes it would push water backward through the UV, or at least it would reduce the flow significantly, balancing the two would be difficult.

Is there a reason why are trying to create a pseudo closed loop into your return line?
If you are considering adding a second pump just for the UV, then why wouldn't you want it to feed back into your sump?

If your return pump is large enough to handle the extra flow required, why not T off the return with a valve to modulate flow through the UV and have it dump into the sump?

I’m trying to create a closed loop because it’s the most efficient way to run a UV. Dumping back into the sump supposedly resterilizes already sterilized water. I just spent a good chunk of money on the UV so I just want the most performance I can get out of it. There are a lot of instructional videos and articles out saying not to dump it back into the sump. Not that it doesn’t work but just that it is much less effective. I also don’t want to hang anything on the side of the tank (what I have to do currently right now because I have Dinos). Once I’m done with the Dinos I would like it plumbed as good as it can possibly done without looking junky.

I do have plenty of power left in my current return pump to add stuff. I just am not sure how to plumb it correctly (I’m running a varios 8 that is on the 3rd setting out of 5 total) to get water to flow out of the sump and back into the display without going around the side of the tank. That’s why I was considering adding a 2nd pump.

 

[bumpyj38]

I just setup a Pentair 40W UV sterilizer on my RS S500. I installed it vertically behind the tank (had just enough room) and am using a dedicated pump (Sicce 3.0) with the pickup right next to my return pump in the return section of the sump, and the output back into the filter socks compartment. I plumpbed the UV unit with PVC and ball valves on the input and output to allow me to fine tune the flow, and when doing maintenance I can close both valves to seal in the water before removing the flex tubing from the barbs.

The flow rate is around 175-200 GPH through the UV. My return turnover rate through the sump is around 1200-1500 GPH, so I figure their is plenty of "new" water making it through the UV, and only a very small/negligle amount is being re-sterilized. I would have gone sump-to-tank, but there just wasn't a clean looking way of doing that without making ugly mods.

I am in a similar situation as you described. Just trying to figure out how to get it to go into the return instead of the sump or filter sock.

 

[mrlavalamp]

I’m trying to create a closed loop because it’s the most efficient way to run a UV. Dumping back into the sump supposedly resterilizes already sterilized water. I just spent a good chunk of money on the UV so I just want the most performance I can get out of it. There are a lot of instructional videos and articles out saying not to dump it back into the sump. Not that it doesn’t work but just that it is much less effective. I also don’t want to hang anything on the side of the tank (what I have to do currently right now because I have Dinos). Once I’m done with the Dinos I would like it plumbed as good as it can possibly done without looking junky.

I do have plenty of power left in my current return pump to add stuff. I just am not sure how to plumb it correctly (I’m running a varios 8 that is on the 3rd setting out of 5 total) to get water to flow out of the sump and back into the display without going around the side of the tank. That’s why I was considering adding a 2nd pump.

What about plumbing it into one of the overflow lines?

If you do use a second pump, you could pickup water near the drain feeding the sump, and feed the uv sterilized water somewhere downstream like into the return chamber.

 

[bumpyj38]

What about plumbing it into one of the overflow lines?

If you do use a second pump, you could pickup water near the drain feeding the sump, and feed the uv sterilized water somewhere downstream like into the return chamber.

This is a good point. I will have to look at my sump and see if I can figure something out. This is definitely an option. Here is a picture of my sump area if it helps at all.

 

[Cheo1392]

What was the final outcome for the closed loop plumbing to not re-sterilize the same water?

In the same boat and was wondering if I could split my return line at the pump so that I have a line goin to the tank and one to the sterilizer. Then from the sterilizer right T it off back into the return line.

 

[Chenko]

Bump... I have the same question. Looking to get Aqua Ultraviolet 57 Watt Classic UV Sterilizer for my Cade Reef 1500 S2 (169g total w/ sump). I was thinking of running it from the built-in manifold off my return pump (SICCE Syncra SDC 7.0 rated for 800-1900 gph) and letting the UV outlet back into the sump's Intake Chamber (right before the socks/mat roller).

However, from everything I read/watched (including BRS), folks recommend a closed loop which to me implies (just like the original question) to go from return pump to UV and then straight to the display tank via the return pipe. Skip the manifold completely. However, that means that there is just one set of flow (fairly fast) which deals only with algae. If I want to use UV for parasites, I am out of luck or my entire tank return flow really slows down to about x1. Is that OK? Do I compensate with Powerheads? I have 2 Tunze Turbelle Stream 3s.

Any help will be greatly appreciated!

Thanks,
Alex

 

[TheBear78]

Obviously it can be done with a split return, utilising a manifold/t-pieces and valves to divide the flow accordingly. You'll need to measure the flow too but I don't suppose this has to be continuously monitored.
However, a lot of methods are considered less efficient/sub-optimal etc. but this doesn't mean it wont work. Plumbing the UV back into the sump is one example of this yet many people have success using this method.
I don't have a UV (make of that what you want) or a return manifold. If I did, I would happily run it back into the sump and use the water for a reactor or agitating dead spots.

 

[Chenko]

So after talking to BRS support, got the following diagram how to set this up. The key is that you do not want to return the UVed water back into the sump to keep the sump only processing dirty water and not the clean one from the UV (since it was already cleaned before). This is the part that I never really understood (even after watching the 2 RBS videos re: it about 50 times). With the bottom right valve (in front of UV), you can control what type of UV you want to do ... bigger flow for algae or lower flow for parasites. And even though not all the water goes through the UV (even though I will experiment with all of it going through UV at least for algae), sooner or later all of it will go through UV.

And I also found a great thread with pictures from BattleReefer who did a beautiful implementation of it.

 

[crabgrass]

So after talking to BRS support, got the following diagram how to set this up. The key is that you do not want to return the UVed water back into the sump to keep the sump only processing dirty water and not the clean one from the UV (since it was already cleaned before). This is the part that I never really understood (even after watching the 2 RBS videos re: it about 50 times). With the bottom right valve (in front of UV), you can control what type of UV you want to do ... bigger flow for algae or lower flow for parasites. And even though not all the water goes through the UV (even though I will experiment with all of it going through UV at least for algae), sooner or later all of it will go through UV.

And I also found a great thread with pictures from BattleReefer who did a beautiful implementation of it.

This is really helpful. Are each one of the Red things on the diagrams valves? I am extreme novice at pumbing - why would the one on the return line be needed before the union?

 

[TheBear78]

You need a way to force the water through the UV, hence the valve on the left.
I assume that the valves either side of the UV are union valves that can be disconnected. The first valve can obviously be used to balance the flow. However, having two connections allows the UV to be removed for maintenance without having to turn off the pump.
Compact plumbing is nice but having the ability to remove sections for cleaning or modifying is often worth a few bulky connectors.